ST185 conversion to ST205

Overtriped

New member
Still waiting on my fabricator to fix my floor. Decided to remove the stock fuel tank, get a fuel cell, AN fittings up to the fuel rail, adjustable FPR, new brake lines to the back. Possibly a rear diffuser once it's all together. Have been fighting the wiring harness and ecu after hooking up the obd1 data streaming. Car will not run properly, won't idle, is misfiring and over fueling. Checked over the pin outs 3 times, replaced plugs, cap... Will try to diagnose it further. Leaning more and more towards investing into a Haltech ecu, 8 foot flying lead harness, and a race pack. Want to just be done buying gauges and dealing with electronics once and for all. Plus the stock ecu likes to run really rich under boost and there's tons of room for improvement, really being held back. :shoots:

In other news I picked up another ST185: 1991 red car that's rusted, blown up, and has a sheity black paint job. We have already pulled the engine, and rear subframe. Next set is to fix the rusts, and prep the chassis for rallying.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Do you have any pics inside of the new sunroof panel? I am still leaning towards making one out of fiberglass but I would like to see more of yours. I am about to drop my rear end today to put in the 205 subframe.
 

Overtriped

New member
Picked up a set of high lift rev3 HKS 272 Cam shafts


plan to eventually drop them in with uprated springs, retainers, and shim-less buckets. Still undecided on which springs and retainers to get. Decided on ATS adjustable cam gears. Cusco type 2 underbrace is on its way, rear end soon to be replaced.

Washed out the inteior with soap and water yesterday and scrubbed with a wire brush. Residue from the sound deadener remains and also the seam sealer. Thinking soaking the stuff in K1 will take care of it. then im going to remove the unnessary brackets on the floor pan for the rear seatbelts, and seat. lightly sand and clean up the metal for fresh black paint. A friend is going to be welding the floor pan and rear end for me, my machinist was too busy and bailed out.
 

WarTowels

Active member
Looks familiar... can't quite place where I've seen these before!

I will look for that rad cap and let you know if I find it-
 

Overtriped

New member
PhilliezRus":17fq2seu said:
I have complete ST205 swap w/driveshaft and rear assembly for sale. PM for more info
I am quite alright with parts right now. Post a For sale thread in parts for sale USA! Thanks anyway.
 

Overtriped

New member
I used the 2nd gen cat-less down pipe and stainless midpipe I already had on my car. One less bolt hole on the Downpipe but it bolted up no problem. I've yet to install the 205 catback.
 

Overtriped

New member
A fair amount of body work needs to be done as seen earlier in the thread. All the sway bar, sub-frame, and cross-member mounts will be reinforced. Bought a good amount of steel in various shapes and sizes. Removed all brake, fuel lines from underside, and fuel tank. Once the floor pan for the cabin is finished ill go ahead and pull the rear sub frame and rear suspension. New nickle copper brake lines going though the cabin, ill prob end up making a pipe chase for the fuel lines underneath. Spare tire/trunk area: ill remove the sheet metal and flush mount a fuel cell. The cell will be a little higher up than the factory gas tank. I've measured that area and I think it will sit higher than the rear crash bar with the trunk being flat. I might opt to encapsulate the bottom with steel just to pass safety inspection. That clears up the rear quiet a bit; Plenty of room for a diffuser in the future if i want. Most of the solid mounts are now pressed into the rear subframe. Still need to do the diff cushion and brace bushings, whiteline stuff I have. Over all: picking up the pace and now have access to a two post lift which obviously makes things ALOT easier.

In other news I just received my Haltech Platinum sport 1000 with long lead harness including fuse/relay box!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :evil: :smokes: Will be hooking it up with the factory ignition for now, harness with be terminated on Dutch connectors. Eventually will go all out and get the display dash, and COP but very excited to just get it hooked up and mapped for now. Pics to come
 

alltracman78

Active member
Before you start welding up the swaybar mounts drive it without swaybars and see how you like it.
When I picked up my Cressida [for a DD, not for a racecar] I pulled it all apart and ended up leaving the swaybars out.
When I drove it I found it felt better IMO.
I haven't had a chance to try this on the Alltrac yet, so I can't say specifically about it, but it's worth a shot.
 

Overtriped

New member
I actually tested this out with my st165. removed the rear links and swung it out of the way for a while. It was funny you could just drift the car in a straight line, the rear end was very loose. Once Reconnecting it the rear was much more planted. In my truck I tried removing the front, I noticed that it feels stiffer now with it reconnected, and doesn't tend to wonder as much driving in a straight line. It really doesn't cut in quiet as well with it connected. On this car I will be using a white line 3 way adjustable bar. Haven't tested it yet but i believe i could swing it away completely. Just finished downloading the Haltech Software and its really amazing, just looking at the sample files for the data logging and a 2jz tune its crazy the flexibility.
 

Overtriped

New member
as far as the sway bar mounts them self go, looks to be pretty simple. the floor pan rails but into them anyway and i planed to redo them... you know since i have that felony hole under the clutch pedal lol
 

Overtriped

New member
Quick update, Car is mostly in storage for now.. I Started test fitting the new 3 row rad I got from towels. Super tight fit, thinking I have to modify the rad support to tilt it forward so I can still utilize pull fans. Probably end up doing a quick disconnect rad support. My friend gave me a mitsimoto rad from his mr2, have been considering using it for my heat exchanger on the w2a IC rather than the big bar and plate one I currently have (since it's a micro channel coil probably a little more efficient+lighter weight.) IF I do end up using that I will try to sandwhich it against my rad for packagaing and airflow. Having the throttle body coupling modified to go from a rubber peice to a full alloy hard pipe supplied by xiiimotorsports with a v-band style clamp. Purchased a gen4 fuel rail, the injector spacing and bolt spacing is the same. I have found the part number to a ID1000 injector set that will work. All that is left is to figure out the mounting hardware, fittings, and hoses, fuel cell. Project is on hold at the moment until I can buy my own house. Pretty excited to get my own work space where I can really focus on the car, my current situation has been very very difficult to get any extend amount of time in the shop.
 

Overtriped

New member
Got HKS adjustable cam gears in the mail to pair with the cams .
Started Messing aroudn with the anti-lag hardware. Removed the banjo bolt(s) from the exhaust manifold. found that the hole in the banjo bolt does not align with the pipe. Some air will flow though the pipe once the bolt is loose. Banjo bolt would need to be re-drilled to be "common" with the pipe going to the dump valve.

Removed the diaphram cover from the dump valve, removed the stiff spring inside. gave the valve a few good smashes with a hammer with some oil, and now the valve is free. Not welded shut or anything, just slightly seized.

Now that the pipes, banjo bolts and valve is "unlocked" i need to get a new softer spring for the dump valve, drill out the lower flange. Ill probably end up replacing the exhaust anti-lag pipes with larger ones for more air flow, as the dump valve is around 38 mm and each pipe is only 3mm or so.
 
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