Project ST165-ST205 Swap

GT4times2

Moderator
zaluss":1lg00lkl said:
GT4times2":1lg00lkl said:
Great work! Keep it up! Where did you order the connectors (injector clips) from? I have a few broken ones on my ST185/Caldina swap. Thanks.
Ordered straight from the dealer. There is a part number listed on the injector clip.


Very true. Totally overlooked that. Thank you.
 

zaluss

Member
August 29th, 2015

Another long time since I've updated but I've finally got everything dialed in and running. My first test run out of the garage resulted in a low 500 rpm idle after a short 2 mile journey. I let the car sit overnight and the following day it would die immediately after applying any throttle. I took the throttle body apart and discovered the idle air control valve was clogged with carbon and the little door wasn't moving. Cleaned the IACV and tested the door which worked great. Put it all back together and did another test drive with the new Antera 109 trispokes I found on craigslist. I don't have the coilovers at the ride height I wanted yet because I wanted to leave room for some adjustments without taking the wheels off as I made my measurements. Just enough to get to an alignment shop at least.

Clogged with carbon.
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Stopped by an empty church parking lot to take some pictures.
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zaluss

Member
RallyX-GT4":ogiwxc6e said:
So... how does it run now??? You just can't leave it at that! :)

Ha! It runs...

September 27th, 2015

Few things have changed since the last update but not a whole lot. Long story short, I should of replaced the clutch while the engine was out because the clutch is slipping at WOT. No amount of pedal adjustment or bleeding seems to resolve it. That's what I get for being cheap! Now I have to pull the whole engine again (Why you ask? Because center diff). Before I discovered this little problem, I did do a few minor things to the car.

The factory boost gauge wouldn't work with the swap and I didn't want some gauge pod style boost gauge. I discovered an Omori boost gauge that the MR2 guys install in the factory location. Sounds like something I could do!




Works great. Matches (kinda) the factory 80's style green without being obnoxious.

Also picked up a Twos R Us manual boost controller to compliment the boost gauge. Disabled the TVSV and set the boost to 12psi.



Cleaned up the interior a bit as well.

 
12 psi? I thought the st205 came factory with 14 psi? Correct me if I'm wrong please, that number is just stuck in my head for some reason.

Car is looking great, really clean!
 

zaluss

Member
Mr Alltrac":1dxvxtam said:
12 psi? I thought the st205 came factory with 14 psi? Correct me if I'm wrong please, that number is just stuck in my head for some reason.

Car is looking great, really clean!

Factory boost is 13.2 PSI max but I set it to 12 for testing since I disabled the TVSV.
 

zaluss

Member
October 3rd, 2015

Preparing to drop the motor for the clutch replacement. Ordered a Clutchmasters Stage III FX300 clutch + ARP Flywheel bolts from Xiiimotorsports. Also ordered an OEM throwout bearing/rear main seal, and new pressure plate bolts. I damaged the pricey vacuum nipples for the power steering pump in the process of removal.

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Salvaging my fresh Redline trans oil. $17/quart ain't cheap.

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Engine dropped.

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Two hours wiggling that bastard off via the 'silo' method.

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Well that explains why the car was slipping under any power..

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zaluss

Member
October 10th, 2015

Stuff has arrived and stuff needs to be replaced.

Removing the rear main seal.
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New OEM seal.
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Resurfaced OEM flywheel. Opted against using the Fidanza one.
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Sexy surface.
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ARP Flywheel bolts and Loctite 242.
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Installed and torqued to spec. What a PITA to hold the flywheel in place to do it.
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Clutchmaster FX300 fitted.
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New OEM pressure plate bolts.
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Installed and torqued to spec. Torque specs was rather low in the manual (17-20 ft lb iirc) so I added some loctite.
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Pricey moly paste and OEM throwout bearing.
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Lubing the slave contact.
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Lubing the bearing contact points.
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Lubing the pivot.
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Installed.
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Close up. You can see the nice thin layer of moly lube on the shaft. I put a very slight layer of antiseize on the spline as well.
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Back together. Probably throw it back in the car tomorrow or next weekend.
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CSAlltrac

New member
You left out the phase between anti seizing the output shaft and back together. I know theres a lot of cussing in that phase. :pissed:
Everything looks awesome, should be nice to get all your power to the ground.
 
Awesome seeing all of this coming together! Admittedly I'm sometimes tempted with swapping mine, but the original, low-mileage engine is what's keeping me from doing more than dream, haha. How do you like the Ceika coilovers?
 

Ghooble

New member
Another 205 swap in Western Washington!

Question; does your cold idle up work? Mine has never worked since the swap and I can't figure it out. I'm going to try cleaning my IACV for a second time..

-Ghooble
 

zaluss

Member
AlltracAvenger":2eko704n said:
Awesome seeing all of this coming together! Admittedly I'm sometimes tempted with swapping mine, but the original, low-mileage engine is what's keeping me from doing more than dream, haha. How do you like the Ceika coilovers?

Awesome so far!

Ghooble":2eko704n said:
Another 205 swap in Western Washington!

Question; does your cold idle up work? Mine has never worked since the swap and I can't figure it out. I'm going to try cleaning my IACV for a second time..

-Ghooble

Cold idle works fine. I had an issue where it would idle around 500 when warmed up only but cleaning the IACV fixed that up. Does your car not hold idle when cold?
 

TRDTurko

New member
Awesome build! you are super lucky to find a car in that great of shape! have to say I hate the wheels but then I never really liked tri spokes but to each his own lol. Isn't a stage 3 clutch a lil much for your power goals?
 

Ghooble

New member
It will hold idle when cold but it won't idle up to 1500 or whatever. It will sit at about 500 like yours. I've cleaned the iacv twice and the door moves pretty freely...

It might be an air bubble in the coolant in the iacv itself..I'll try to slide the line off for a second to purge any air that might be hanging out in it.
 
Yeah the flex section is gone but I don't think that will fix that smoking problem... do you think the turbo seals are going bad maybe? I know there is a little smoke sometimes on a startup after it sits for a while but damn...
 

zaluss

Member
CTechBlueDragon":1x2xi6oe said:
Yeah the flex section is gone but I don't think that will fix that smoking problem... do you think the turbo seals are going bad maybe? I know there is a little smoke sometimes on a startup after it sits for a while but damn...
I guess I should of mentioned that I forgot to drain the oil from the motor when I pulled it so a bunch of oil got in places it shouldn't. Tool about ten minutes of running for all the oil to burn off.
 

zaluss

Member
November 22nd 2015

So after burning through all the oil in the exhaust, I took an angle grinder to cut out the sections and disconnect it from the down pipe. The muffler was already rusted through and disconnected so it simply fell off once removed from the exhaust hangers. Still had a Toyota part number stamped on it so it could of been original. Probably was.

It was starting to show its love.

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I had a few choices at this point: 1) HKS ST185 Catback+Trackforge midpipe. Pricey as it would put me over $1500. 2) Custom exhaust. 3) Ebay Exhaust for $250...

I went with the Ebay option.

Arrived in good condition. Seems high quality.

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I was anticipating having to mange this thing in there with some hammerlike persuasion but much to my surprise, it fit really well.

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The most difficult part to bolt together.

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One of the exhaust hangers doesn't reach. I'll need to get a longer one.

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Autozone exhaust clamp. Leaked so I'll need to get a better quality one.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3zrl569pIw

Overall I'm satisfied with the fit and finish. I'll have to do a proper test once I get a new exhaust clamp.
 
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