FC Zach's AllTrac

FC Zach

Active member
pintoBC_3sgte":29kttfwu said:
Wow, great looking car, great shots!!

Thank you! My friend finished them and sent me the link to download, here are the rest :)

33314971842_0083e3832f_z.jpg


Funny. . I had a trailer hitch when this picture was taken. . oh the powers of photoshop.
32627625934_54ba2d4bb1_z.jpg


33314965992_3ebab9368e_z.jpg


33314961452_d24588aef0_z.jpg


33314956352_0ef73987f7_z.jpg
 

FC Zach

Active member
Although I love Toyotas/Celicas, I'm a big rotor head! Last weekend was the Deals Gap Rotary Rally, an event that I look forward to every year and have been attending since '06 or '07. This year I was unable to drive my 7 due to a harness issue but I still had fun in the AllTrac :) I found this picture on KillBoy's site.

34401249795_342e7e2c26_z.jpg


I wasn't without a rotory though, I trailered my rotary golf cart to the event. This thing was a blast! I won an award with it so I'm pretty proud of it to say the least :)

https://www.facebook.com/198449143613369/videos/718000108324934/
30971945864_7054254fb7_z.jpg
 

FC Zach

Active member
CSAlltrac":1l3s2l03 said:
Those shots look awesome dude, that rotary event sounds like a blast. Are you on Instagram at all?

It really is a fun event, and one of the largest rotary gatherings in the states. I'm not on Instagram, maybe one day.
 

FC Zach

Active member
End of last month, just before a two week vacation from work, a tubular manifold that came on the car had failed me and started leaking. I figured this would happen since it was a cheapo fleaBay piece so a few years ago I purchased an OE cast manifold from someone here on the forum. I didn’t want to fix what wasn’t broke so I left it alone, a part of me was glad this happened because I prefer a cast manifold and it's a plus that the OE part is much stronger. .

Here's an older picture with the tubular manifold. . It had a hole through it at the turbo flange.
28884392383_643b4090de_z.jpg


I removed everything and started placing orders for gaskets. I didn't care for the corroded hardware so I ordered titanium and SS hardware to replace all the rusted stuff. At the time I thought it would be a great idea to get titanium studs for the head but it wasn't until I tried to remove the rusted studs that I realized I should have left well enough alone! Many curse words yelled, a broken stud, and a Time-Sert later. . I finally got 5 of the 7 studs out, the remaining two I said Fv*k it! !
35061609193_404c620cab_z.jpg

(They're not all shiny and new looking because I applied very high temp anti-seize heavily)
35759019881_91bee47c2e_z.jpg


While I had the radiator out, I replaced the e-fan with a better quality and slightly slimmer Spal. I also had some mounts fabricated to secure it as opposed to those plastic zip-tie thingies I had been using that royally fubar the rad. After that was completed I straightened damaged fins from past accidents.
35759009101_e52f938494_z.jpg

35739397651_c4046fd819_z.jpg

(A few hours/beers later. . .)
35830348376_e5a61c13fb_z.jpg


One last thing I wanted to address was the wastegate. Years ago I had an adapter made that wrapped around the compressor housing and used the original mounting holes but required I cut a portion of the actuator bracket off. It put the angle of the actuator in an awkward position and had the rod in a bind which eventually damaged the actuator diaphragm. I ordered one of those adjustable actuators from eBay and showed the fabricator my issue. . His idea was to remove the mounting points from the housing and weld them in place where the actuator was needed. I gave him an extra CT26 in stock form to get an idea of how it was originally.
35739394351_ba63fa5874_z.jpg

35830354356_133308bf8c_z.jpg


The mounting points were almost perfect. . I had to tweak the actuator rod slightly and open the top hole of the bracket to position the actuator body away from the hard cooling lines that run across the engine.
35061611453_df40a97047_z.jpg

(After tweaking rod and bracket)
35081174993_89f3ab8d87_z.jpg

(Opened top hole slightly to pull actuator away from hard lines)
35081174533_5354348c37_z.jpg

(Perfect)
35759004781_12daecf97c_z.jpg

(Very close, there's a mm of clearance)
35050841484_1db46c7bd2_z.jpg


I also had the fabricator notch one of my intercooler pipes because it was rubbing against the downpipe, it isn't pretty but it'll do.
35502462520_57319a2a6a_z.jpg


Radiator in, there's a little more room than before.
35502468200_3552b3ee0a_z.jpg


And finally got her all buttoned up. Something I always wanted was a heat shield. When this one was delivered I sanded and repainted it to make it look new again.
35502472340_c9fb7bb33f_z.jpg




Took her for a test drive. . . and just when I thought I was all done, I heard my turbo cooling inlet/outlet hissing water :bangshead: I must have broke one of the brazed connections from the flange when I was bending the pipes to clear the heat shield :(
 

FC Zach

Active member
FC Zach":1o27m1av said:
SAD Day! I found some bubbling under the paint a few days ago and this morning I tapped on that area to clear away the loose paint. . . this is what I found :cry:
27874151094_33b9494f42_c.jpg


After clearing the cancer away I noticed a lot of material inside the panel and started pulling out as much as I could with a pair of hemostats then had the idea to vacuum the rest out. Minus the dirt and debris that was already in the cleaner, this is what I pulled out. . a lot of foam and other insulation.
28490664665_045b3d7fd4_c.jpg


My guess is that with one of the previous owners, a mouse had made a nest in that panel. All that material combined with water was obviously a bad combination. It sucks because I had no way of knowing this to prevent it. Anyways, I need to repair this section, is there anything I should do as far as preventative maintenance to help prevent this from happening again?

Almost a year later and I still haven't repaired this issue however I did peel away the tape (I covered the hole with duct tape to help keep water out till I could repair) to see if it was any worse. While there I saw another spot! Like the last spot, I tapped that area and sure enough it was rusted through too. :( There was material still in there that I obviously didn't get out. I think it's all out now (I hope!), I'll run a scope through the rocker panel tomorrow to be sure.

Even more nest that I missed :x Damn devil mice! :evil:
35770354491_aa7e539bfe_z.jpg


I ordered some Eastwood Internal Frame Coating to convert and prevent rust, especially till I can get these spots repaired. This is some cool stuff that I never knew existed untill Google searching a vague description of my problem. . Here's what I found, it will do exactly what I need it to do (I hope!).
41NM0M3H%2BPL._SL500_AC_SS350_.jpg

12515Z_infoimage640.jpg
 

FC Zach

Active member
I used the above product in my rocker panel yesterday and I must say, this stuff i stuff is awesome. . minus the strong chemical smell that is lingering in the cabin. I had to drive to work with the windows down even after leaving the sunroof tilted all day and will probably have to do the same on the way home.

Anyways, I recommend this product if you suspect any moisture damage. I shined a light through the hole afterwards and the coverage looked great, just like in the pic above.
 

FC Zach

Active member
Since I've had the car, it's had a damaged fender that I've wanted to fix or replaced and repaint. A couple years ago I picked up a spare fender because I thought mine was a little too banged up, then I got some paint. All this was put to the side on the back-burner until I was ready (as well as my painter friend) until last weekend.
Here's the before:
36432571082_6a0d4c22e0_z.jpg


To my surprise he repaired the original fender instead of using the replacement (which wasn't perfect either but still probably in better in condition). While at it, I also had him redo my front and rear bumper.
36533661406_f1de6f6064_z.jpg

36580114165_4d9fc95e23_z.jpg


Last weekend, while removing the hatch plastics to remove the rear bumper, I found that I had standing water in the left wheel well area. I pulled the body plug and brown water started pouring :bangshead: I immediately grabbed a plastic cup as fast as I could and almost filled it even after a lot spilled on the garage floor! After letting the area dry and cleaning it the best I could (very difficult area to reach), I sprayed rust converter through a hole from the hatch area.

Prior to yesterday morning, I had been thinking about possible places for water to enter that area. Assuming that it was plugged, I hadn't considered the antenna hole at first but I can never be to sure, especially with all the other PO issues I've addressed. . so I planned to check it the next day.
Out of curiosity, I pulled the spoiler end piece and this is what I found. Seriously?! :nono: :
36601145245_8c80ae810d_z.jpg


I guess the PO lived up to the saying: "If you can't duct it, then f**k it." But hey, at least they put tape on both top and bottom LOL. . Anyways, I searched around and found a plug in my tool box that was the perfect fit!
36204585350_80cd8efd93_z.jpg
 

FC Zach

Active member
Coincidentally, the plug I had laying around is a Toyota part. I searched the number (90950-01504) on the top of the plug and if I recall correctly, I believe it is from the crossmember but I'm not positive. After checking a few Toyota sites it looks like that is exactly what it is.
 

FC Zach

Active member
underscore":2wf0xad1 said:
That certainly looks like the crossmember plug, nice fix!

Thank you! I just hope however long water had been getting past the tape and pooled in the panel, didn't cause too much damage. . On top of the rust converter (after that dried), I fogged the panel with Sta-Bil oil. Should be OK, crossing fingers.
 

FC Zach

Active member
About four months ago I had a flat and unfortunately I neglected to test fit my stock 15" spare to see if it cleared the 205 brakes front and rear (never thought to do it). It did not so I had to leave the car till I could get a replacement tire the following morning. After all that was sorted I bought a 7th gen 16" wheel to use for a spare http://www.autorimshop.com/amfinder/?find=2000-toyota-celica-443977. I wasn't completely positive it would fit so when it arrived I tested it. In case you were wondering, *it will.

*However, I have spacers front and rear so results may vary. . .
34388153790_68679ee582_z.jpg


With this said, I do still have the 15" wheel with a new tire (also comes w/ receipt for free balance from any Discount Tire) that I'd sell for cheap. . . If willing to pick up unfortunately.

33840793994_cfc869221c_z.jpg
 
Top