Removing the turbo manifold

Indy3sgte

New member
Hey I know some of you guys have done this and i need to for the steps of cleaning my engine up.

How did u get it outta there? Is there somthin i can take off to make it easier (i already have the turbo cover, intercooler off) I just cant seem to figure how to get certain nuts off :doh: ...ill post pics to try and explain more but any help will help :D

thanks
Dan
 

Rick89GTS

New member
You'll need an assortment of tools: stubby wrenches, offset, crow's foot, universal, wobble joint, extensions, they all come in handy. Don't forget to use liberal amounts of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.
 

RIalltrac

Active member
I took mine off to get to my downpipe, well that thing aint going back on. I probably broke like 3 of the bolts holding it on. So until I get motived to drill out the old bolts, tap the hole and get new hardware.........ah who am I kidding that thing isnt going back on :p
 

toayoztan

Moderator
If you want to get the turbo manifold off, you really don't need alot of fancy tools, if you're willing to take out the manifold, turbo and dp as one big assembly. I suggest doing it like this, b/c it will be almost impossible to get the back two studs out that hold the turbo and manifold together. I tried it on my 92, and ended up stripping and snapping one. It's ALOT easier if you just remove the turbo, manifold, and dp as one big assembly. Then, once it's out, that gives you all the room and free space you need to work completely around the assembly.

Since you already got the manifold heat shield and IC off, the next step is to remove your alternator. This will allow you ten times more room to work with. Besides, it'll allow the manifold to clear w/o hitting the alternator, easier.

Then, blast some PB on the exhaust manifold stud bolts and the studs where the DP (primary CAT for stock) connects to the MP. Then, CAREFULLY and slowly, start removing the nuts from the exh. manifold studs. You're most likely going to be using a socket wrench with a long extension...so keep it as straight as possible while removing the nuts.

When you get done with that tedious task, remove the nuts holding the DP and MP together.

Then, you'll have two things left to remove...i don't know the exact size, but you're going to need a big ass socket to remove the turbo oil feed line from the block (be careful, there's two metal washers there..don't lose them). Then, d/c the oil return/drain line of the turbo on the oil pan side.

After that, remove the coolant lines on the turbo side, NOT from the radiator side. It's only two small nuts holding this in place on the compressor housing.

After that...slide the exhaust manifold off the studs, and lift up. Careful, it'll be a bit heavy (it's not heavy enough to break your back or anything though =P hehe), and slowly lift it out of the bay (careful not to bang against your radiator core).

And voila! Sorry, i can't tell you the exact tools or socket sizes, but you don't need a bunch of fancy tools this way. And it makes alot of things easier, and actually faster, b/c there's really not much tedious nut, bolt, stud removal. It does sound like a lot, but after once or twice through it (i've done this like 5 times now =T), it'll go quick quick, trust me =)

Goodluck! And if you go this far, you might as well have your manifold resurfaced...it might be a problem down the road. Take this opportunity to replace the HFH too, which you will thank me for =) Also, if you're up to it, replace the oil cooler and oil cooler adapter O rings.

Bryan
 

Indy3sgte

New member
Thanks alot Bryan :D I think your way will be the easiest... also i couldnt find my pb when taking the manifold cover off and snapped 2 of the 3 bolts :cry: so this way i can tap those easier...

thanks agian man

Dan
 

beej

New member
damn i dont think i ever wanna take off my exhaust manifold after reading that.....woops snap, woops snap, woops snap :doh:
 

Rallly

New member
toayoztan":an5pw83r said:
If you want to get the turbo manifold off, you really don't need alot of fancy tools, if you're willing to take out the manifold, turbo and dp as one big assembly. I suggest doing it like this, b/c it will be almost impossible to get the back two studs out that hold the turbo and manifold together. I tried it on my 92, and ended up stripping and snapping one. It's ALOT easier if you just remove the turbo, manifold, and dp as one big assembly. Then, once it's out, that gives you all the room and free space you need to work completely around the assembly.

Since you already got the manifold heat shield and IC off, the next step is to remove your alternator. This will allow you ten times more room to work with. Besides, it'll allow the manifold to clear w/o hitting the alternator, easier.

Then, blast some PB on the exhaust manifold stud bolts and the studs where the DP (primary CAT for stock) connects to the MP. Then, CAREFULLY and slowly, start removing the nuts from the exh. manifold studs. You're most likely going to be using a socket wrench with a long extension...so keep it as straight as possible while removing the nuts.

When you get done with that tedious task, remove the nuts holding the DP and MP together.

Then, you'll have two things left to remove...i don't know the exact size, but you're going to need a big ass socket to remove the turbo oil feed line from the block (be careful, there's two metal washers there..don't lose them). Then, d/c the oil return/drain line of the turbo on the oil pan side.

After that, remove the coolant lines on the turbo side, NOT from the radiator side. It's only two small nuts holding this in place on the compressor housing.

After that...slide the exhaust manifold off the studs, and lift up. Careful, it'll be a bit heavy (it's not heavy enough to break your back or anything though =P hehe), and slowly lift it out of the bay (careful not to bang against your radiator core).

And voila! Sorry, i can't tell you the exact tools or socket sizes, but you don't need a bunch of fancy tools this way. And it makes alot of things easier, and actually faster, b/c there's really not much tedious nut, bolt, stud removal. It does sound like a lot, but after once or twice through it (i've done this like 5 times now =T), it'll go quick quick, trust me =)

Goodluck! And if you go this far, you might as well have your manifold resurfaced...it might be a problem down the road. Take this opportunity to replace the HFH too, which you will thank me for =) Also, if you're up to it, replace the oil cooler and oil cooler adapter O rings.

Bryan




Hey Bryan what do you mean " Then, d/c the oil return/drain line of the turbo on the oil pan side. " ????
 

mx6er2587

New member
The turbo oil drain line runs from the center cartridge of the turbo down to the oil pan. The line is easiest to disconnect at the oil pan side. It's been a while since I've seen a factory drain line but I believe it's rubber line at that point
 

underscore

Well-known member
Correct, there's a rubber elbow from the hardline to the pan. I unbolted the flange at the turbo for those lines as I couldn't see a clean way to get the feed line off the block.
 

FC Zach

Active member
underscore":2mnbce1v said:
I unbolted the flange at the turbo for those lines as I couldn't see a clean way to get the feed line off the block.

I was able to *loosen/remove this large banjo bolt with a 1/2" drive socket, extension, and universal (from above).

*Not wanting to have to deal with the sealing washers in a tight spot, I had originally just loosened the bolt so I could have some wiggle room while reinstalling the manifold/turbo/DP assembly but I then found it easier to completely remove the bolt to have more play. For whatever reason, assembly wasn't as easy as disassembly and the inlet/outlet didn't cooperate on alignment till completely removing the bolt.
 

underscore

Well-known member
That's a good point, I spent a lot of time fighting with lining things up on reassembly trying to drop the turbo down onto the oil feed/drain and slide the manifold inwards onto the studs at the same time. If you have the tools to remove the banjo bolt then it's a good idea to do so. Also be sure to replace the crush washers and any other gaskets, even if they look intact. I wasted a ton of time because someone reused the metal gasket for the oil feed/drain line, which started to leak at high pressure.
 

FC Zach

Active member
underscore":coblyufv said:
I spent a lot of time fighting with lining things up on reassembly trying to drop the turbo down onto the oil feed/drain. .

I'm glad it wasn't just me, mine was a real chore. I had to set the assembly down and rest a few times, it was beginning to get the best of me LOL. . I only yelled a few curse words :)
 

underscore

Well-known member
I did the same, it doesn't help that you're nearly bent in half with your arms extended to get it in there. In hindsight I should have taken the front bumper off so I could stand closer.
 
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