Punknoodle's ST185

Talk about your project car here

Re: Punknoodle's ST185

Postby FC Zach » Mon Feb 20, 2017 11:49 am

Nice work on that bracket, looks good!
Members don't see the above ad. Register now - it's free!
1992 Toyota Celica AllTrac
1987 Mazda RX7 Sport
1979 Yamaha G1A, rotary powered with Sachs KM24
1976 Hercules W2000, oil injected
User avatar
FC Zach
Club Member
 
Posts: 818
Images: 9
Joined: Mon May 20, 2013 7:43 am
Location: Eagleville, TN

1992 Toyota Celica

Re: Punknoodle's ST185

Postby Punknoodle » Tue Feb 21, 2017 5:20 am

FC Zach wrote:Nice work on that bracket, looks good!

Thank you! It was actually a bit of a pain to get right, but after a test fit it looks like it will work nicely. I'll paint the compressor housing once it's been welded so the turbo will look a bit nicer.
User avatar
Punknoodle
Club Member
 
Posts: 96
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:45 am

1990 Toyota Celica

Re: Punknoodle's ST185

Postby Punknoodle » Wed Mar 01, 2017 11:27 am

Over the last week or so I've turned my attention on to the interior. I've stripped the sound deadening, it was a complete pain in the ass, but I'm happy now that it's done. I also removed all of the ventilation gear from behind the dash. This is made a LOT more room and removed a fair bit of weight. I'm going to re do the ECU connections and all of the wiring I've added for the water pump ecu and also remount the ECU in a more accessible location. I want it to look a little more presentable and easier to work on, and with no interior it makes it really easy to get at and loom nicely etc. I will be making the factory fuel pump wiring redundant. The new pump draws more current, and it's an important circuit so I'm going to run a dedicated feed directly from the battery which is in the boot anyway, via a fuse and relay, which will be controlled by the ECU as well as a manual override switch in case I need to run the pump manually for testing etc.

Image

I'm also going to remake the battery bracket in the boot, and weld it directly to the floor, to simplify it and make it easier to work on. Previously it was bolted through the floor and so I needed to drop the tank if I ever needed to tighten the bolts. It's all about trying to simplify things. Once that's done, and the roll cage is done and welded in, I'll be painting the entire floor and cage. At the moment I'm thinking it will be Gunmetal Grey.

I sold my SSR wheels, too. I'm intending on getting some RPF1s, as they are more suited for track work and I can fit big brakes in behind them. Will be buying new tires, too. I'm thinking I'll go with the Federal semis again, but this time the RS-RR model, in a 235/40.

Also in among all the little jobs going on I dropped the rear sub frame. I wanted to do it anyway to make it easier to work on the fuel lines back there, plus it's a good time to get around to installing the XIII Motorsports solid diff bushes I have had sitting in my tool chest.

Image

The aluminium diff plate is installed using loctite. The old bushes were really easy to get out, I just used a little heat and pried them out. New ones installed using grease. I'm looking forward to seeing how this feels. I'm also going to drop the drive shaft and give the centre bearings a freshen up.

That brings us up to date.
User avatar
Punknoodle
Club Member
 
Posts: 96
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:45 am

1990 Toyota Celica

Re: Punknoodle's ST185

Postby Punknoodle » Sun Oct 01, 2017 11:28 am

Hi all, it's been a while since I last updated here. I've been making process, albeit fairly slow, but some interesting and cool stuff has been done since the last update.

Before I go on, you'll notice my old photos are all broken... You can blame stupid Photobucket for that! I've since started using Flickr but I haven't bothered to move over old photos and fix links...yet...

Anyway since the last update I installed the new Walbro 460L/hr pump in to the tank. I had to modify the bracket a little to make it fit, then get a little creative regarding how to support it in the tank but I think it works well.
Image

The fuel lines at the rear of the car were swapped out with new Gates Barricade hose along with the low pressure ones at the front. For the high pressure lines up front I used Aeroflow 200 Series -6 Teflon braid. There is also a new Haltech flex fuel sensor in the mix as well as a fuel pressure sensor remote mounted via some -3 Teflon braid.
Image

I'll be buying some new injectors to install immediately before it gets retuned on Ethanol, probably ID1050x's. Currently just have the old 740cc's in which will do until it goes on to E85.

When it came time to put the subframe back in with the new solid mounts, I decided I really didn't want to reuse my original toe arms with their horrible cam adjustment. Instead I designed some new arms and my friend Josh drew them up for me in CAD and organised to have them machined. I made the connection point on the subframe static by welding plates over the slots with just the round bolt hole in them.
Image

The other components looked like this after being machined.
Image

After welding the thread inserts to the existing tubes and giving them a bit of paint and a healthy dose of anti seize compound, they end up looking like this, complete with FK JMXL rod PTFE lined rod ends, installed.
Image
Image

There is enough adjustment on them to allow to be shorter than stock right up to longer than ST205 length. I bolted back the subframe and fitted new poly bushes to the inner LCAs and 4x new spherical bearings in the hubs for the arms. The trailing arms already had new poly bushes from last time I was working on the rear. Now every bush and mounting for the suspension in the car is new. The arms all bolted up beautifully, it's all really solid and the on car adjustment for the rear toe is really direct and simple, no more cam adjustment!
Image

I've painted the floor and remounted the fire extinguisher so I can get to it whilst strapped in to my harness. I also tidied up my wiring in the passenger footwell and made a new bracket for the ECU, to make it more accessible. You can also see the new battery location. The wiring for the fuel pump is all new, direct from the battery via a new fused relay block.
Image
Image

The switches you can see are for, from left to right:
Electric Water Pump Manual
Thermo Fan Manual
Fuel Pump Manual
Datalog Enable

When the switches for the manual control are left off they just run automatically as per usual controlled by the ECU and EWP controller.

I have all the little random bits and pieces I need for the intercooler piping now, like weld on bosses for the temp sensor, weld on hose barb for idle air valve hose, couplings and clamps, new BOV with weld on V-Band fitting. I just need to get the aluminium pipework fabricated now.

I also snapped up a set of ST205 rear calipers. I'm not going to use them yet but they are good to have for later. I gave them a freshen up.
Image

That's it for now :)
User avatar
Punknoodle
Club Member
 
Posts: 96
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:45 am

1990 Toyota Celica

Previous

Return to My Project

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Yahoo [Bot] and 2 guests