Can't find what's loose in front suspension

lalojamesliz1

New member
I just replaced my front and rear sway bar links and my rear clunk is gone now but the front still sounds like the suspension is loose whenever I go over a rough road. Primarily the passenger side. I also replaced the front strut inserts and mounts a couple of weeks ago and it already had this problem.
Any ideas?
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
The east to west crossmember had one bolt on each side that wasn't super tight and I was able to tighten them with my 18" breaker bar. They didn't get tight but I didn't want to turn them too much fearing the threads are just stripped. The rear engine mount was a little loose also.
I haven't driven it after I tightened these bolts but I'm about to drive to work. I have a new rear engine mount I bought and that'll be next to replace to rule that out. I'm just worried something critical is loose and I don't want a accident.
The plan for now is to pull the engine next month for a timing belt job amongst other things.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
underscore":ckn7lt9a said:
What does the old 12-6 / 9-3 wiggle test do?

Your talking about trying to move the wheels right? (Just wanted to be sure)
Both front wheels have no play with that test.
 

underscore

Well-known member
lalojamesliz1":2o9ejpky said:
underscore":2o9ejpky said:
What does the old 12-6 / 9-3 wiggle test do?

Your talking about trying to move the wheels right? (Just wanted to be sure)
Both front wheels have no play with that test.

Yes, lift a side up (ideally by the pinch seam, not by any suspension parts) and shake the wheels as hard as you can.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
[/quote]
Yes, lift a side up (ideally by the pinch seam, not by any suspension parts) and shake the wheels as hard as you can.[/quote]
I thought it's only done at the wheel? I lifted it earlier from the fender when I had my car on the floor and I could hear something loose.
Last night when I dove to work I thought it sounded better but then when I drove home, DAMN :(

It's only my passenger side. Right now my all-trac is in my garage with the front on stands waiting for me but I'm about to head to my local junk yard to buy some front struts so I can cut off the top threaded part and convert my rear struts to inserts. I already bought some koni sport inserts :)

This still needs to be fixed! I tightened all the bolts I saw.....this sucks donkey d☆☆◇
 

underscore

Well-known member
I'm not sure what you mean about the wheel, use the jack and stand under the pinch seam and use your hands on the rim/tire to shake it. If you can hear something loose while it's stationary then get someone to help you shake it around while you hunt down what is making the noise. While you're in there make sure everything is tight. Ball joint (iirc 2 bolts 2 nuts), tie rods, crossmember (3 bolts/side?), control arm (1 nut each end), control arm mounts (3 bolts front, 2 bolts rear), strut (5 tops, 2 bottom), brake caliper and bracket (2 bolts each). Check the control arm bushings and ball joint boot, sway bar bushings and links, eventually you should find something worn or loose.
 

___Scott___

Active member
Those types of noises are tough to pinpoint.

I had a clunky noise in the front that I was sure was upper strut mounts. I replaced the front control arm bushings and the clunk went away.

Don't rule anything out, check everything.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
underscore":4phcrn01 said:
I'm not sure what you mean about the wheel, use the jack and stand under the pinch seam and use your hands on the rim/tire to shake it. If you can hear something loose while it's stationary then get someone to help you shake it around while you hunt down what is making the noise. While you're in there make sure everything is tight. Ball joint (iirc 2 bolts 2 nuts), tie rods, crossmember (3 bolts/side?), control arm (1 nut each end), control arm mounts (3 bolts front, 2 bolts rear), strut (5 tops, 2 bottom), brake caliper and bracket (2 bolts each). Check the control arm bushings and ball joint boot, sway bar bushings and links, eventually you should find something worn or loose.

I'll go through this list and report back.....
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
___Scott___":3a46x9y1 said:
Those types of noises are tough to pinpoint.

I had a clunky noise in the front that I was sure was upper strut mounts. I replaced the front control arm bushings and the clunk went away.

Don't rule anything out, check everything.

The one on the passenger side does look like it's missing a little bit of the bushing compared to the driver side..... is it hard to replace the bushings?
I really think it's this now :| did you buy a oem bushing?
Should I get these https://whitelineperformance.com/front- ... ing-w51975
Or these https://whitelineperformance.com/front- ... ing-w51976
Or both?
I wanted to use regular rubber bushings to save $$$ but I can't find any
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
Problem solved. The nut that holds in the insert on the strut housing was loose just enough to make the insert rattle. I couldn't tighten it much with the small vise set up I have and with it bolted to the car one as able to tighten it just enough
Only reason I'm posting this embarrassing truth is because you guys helped me out :doh:
Thanks guys
 

___Scott___

Active member
Thanks for posting that find. I think that's the first time I've seen anyone post about a loose gland nut.

I made the poly bushings I used, but I don't advise people do that. I should have just bought them, it would have been faster, easier and maybe even a little cheaper depending on shipping costs.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
I sometimes feel like this isn't going to end..... I still have the clunk inn the rear when I go from reverse to a first and now I have popping sounds at slow speeds in the front end if I'm making turns like in a parking lot.

I have both upper tie rod ball joints i bought and I just haven't installed them yet but I'm guessing I need to buy the control arm bushings. I was looking at the whiteline w51975 and w51976. I didn't want to spend $80 on the two bushings since money is tight right now but that popping sound isn't comforting. Is there a standard bushing replacement available I just can't find?

As for the rear, I bought some sway bar bushings that were too small for the front sway bar so I'll guess they are for the rear sway bar mabey.....i already rebuilt my rear diff with shore 80 poly and replaced the rear sway bar links. what else could cause the rear clunk?
I love driving my all-trac and my 4 kids love being driven around in it as well. My wife not so much but that's ok :)
I'm not giving up. I considered taking it to a mechanic but then I smacked myself for thinking dirty thoughts
 

___Scott___

Active member
lalojamesliz1":3asjo8zq said:
Is there a standard bushing replacement available I just can't find?
I couldn't find any for my ST165. I discovered that I could buy the whole lower control arm pretty cheap from RockAuto which includes the rubber bushing. I bought a pair of them and they were better than the old bushings, but not a lot better.

I'll do a write-up on how I made my poly bushings for people like me who just want to experiment with the DIY approach.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Whiteline, GT4-Racing and someone else all make poly bushings for the front and rear. If the bushings are shot new LCAs will give more of a stock right and be a faster job to replace.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
___Scott___":3106hfgf said:
lalojamesliz1":3106hfgf said:
Is there a standard bushing replacement available I just can't find?
I couldn't find any for my ST165. I discovered that I could buy the whole lower control arm pretty cheap from RockAuto which includes the rubber bushing. I bought a pair of them and they were better than the old bushings, but not a lot better.

I'll do a write-up on how I made my poly bushings for people like me who just want to experiment with the DIY approach.

Unfortunately i wasnt able to find replacement control arms, just the bushings. I guess that's my only option. Wtf man :shoots:
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
underscore":3mefwxxp said:
Whiteline, GT4-Racing and someone else all make poly bushings for the front and rear. If the bushings are shot new LCAs will give more of a stock right and be a faster job to replace.

Have you seen new lca's for sale?
 
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