spec 1 or spec 3 clutch?

SPEC Stage 1 clutch or Stage 3 clutch (only looking for maximum 250/260 HP)?

  • Stage 1 Clutch

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Stage 2 Clutch

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
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jotarokun

New member
So... I might need a new clutch. I'm not looking to get MAD power out of her, so I don't know if i need a stage 3 but a friend of mine is reccomending it like a mofo. I personally, with not too much money and owning an all-trac, want to to get the stage 1 and the aluminium flywheel.

Thoughts? Should I go with my budget or say screw it and wait longer on the swaybars then? I will be needing to order it probably by Tuesday (July 12th) if I know for sure I'll need to buy the SOB.
 

RIalltrac

Active member
did you mean stage 1 & 2? The stage 3 would probably be overkill for those kid of hp ranges. I have a stage 2 waiting to go in.
 

toytech

New member
I have driven both the 2 and 3 and both are pretty liveable the 2 is like stock almost and easy to slip with the kevlar face,. the 3 is a little grabier but still not bad. An alltrac needs more clutch than a comparable mr2 anyway due to all the extra available traction.
 

jotarokun

New member
toytech":3j802j7w said:
I have driven both the 2 and 3 and both are pretty liveable the 2 is like stock almost and easy to slip with the kevlar face,. the 3 is a little grabier but still not bad. An alltrac needs more clutch than a comparable mr2 anyway due to all the extra available traction.

So Chris... Stage 3?
 
I didn't go Spec, but with what is basically an ACT variant of a Stage 1. I'm looking for mild power gains. I probably won't be doing much in the way of power mods... K&N filter, possibly a 3" turbo-back exhaust setup and intercooler mods, running 12psi if I decide to even touch the boost. As far as the clutch goes... mine felt a decent deal more grabby than stock, and at mild power levels I suspect it'll hold just fine. However, this is only with a few miles of driving; so YMWV.
 

pog0

New member
I say go stage 3 because you never know if you will REALLY stop at your reasonable HP goals. What if you got a stage 1, then you happen to get an upgraded turbo, an ems, cams, etc... You would have to pay for the clutch job again or go through the labor of doing the clutch yourself.
 

dluke

New member
92AllTracTurbo":q430vxk8 said:
I say go stage 3 because you never know if you will REALLY stop at your reasonable HP goals. What if you got a stage 1, then you happen to get an upgraded turbo, an ems, cams, etc... You would have to pay for the clutch job again or go through the labor of doing the clutch yourself.

... but at that point you'd be needing new engine internals, so the clutch wouldn't really be that big of a deal ;-)
 

pog0

New member
You dont need internals... it's more of insurance for more boost. Plenty of people have passed the 300 mark without internals.

If you do a lot of racing, you should get the stage 3. If you dont race AT ALL, maybe some spirited driving, then stage 2.
 

jotarokun

New member
I can get a stock one for 50 bucks. Should I just do that? I might be leaving the country in 1 year, that's the thing - otherwise, I'd do everything to this car... *sigh*... And I just want to take it on the track maybe twice before I leave.
 

killer_siller

New member
i'm considering a spec stage 3 for my 165. i intend on doing some boost cranking, but nothing major.

i had heard some negative feedback on spec clutches on this board. am i mistaken?
 

Felix

New member
I have driven an ST205 with an upgraded turbo, hks exhaust, and some other goodies (around 280 hp crank) and it had a stage 3 act clutch. That thing is definatly NOT daily driveable. Everytime I shifted below 4,000 rpm going slow, it sounded like a strut bottoming out and exploding. Stage 1 should be good for what you are wanting!
 
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