Head removal....... help

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Head removal....... help

Postby tw2 » Fri Feb 16, 2007 5:37 am

I am currently removing the head with the engine in the car. I am almost at the point of removing it but I cannot get the intake manifold supports off (rear ones to block). Has anyone done this before and could suggest ways of getting those bolts out?

I can only see one of them and there is almost no room to get any tools in down between the firewall and the engine. I managed to get one undone. Is it sufficient to only remove one bolt per side to be able to lift the head off with the manifold still on?

Would it be better to take the intake manifold off before or after removing the head? The BGB says remove it first but I don't see why it is necessary.

Any help appreciated thanks. Anyone who is wanting to attempt this, it is on the whole quite easy apart from this removing the manifold part. Just a case of having some decent tools, BGB and carefully labelling and arranging everything that is taken off. And write down everything you do in the order you do it so it can be done in the correct order in reverse.
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Postby theUNYTEDone » Fri Feb 16, 2007 9:51 am

i dont really see any problem with removing the manifold after head removal. just be sure everything is nice and supported, and in the case of all vac lines etc, disconnected and labelled.

if i read your post correctly, you're wishing to remove the manifold before the head, however, due to the lack of space, you need to remove everything in order to get the intake mani off? :shrug:
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Postby etantshi » Fri Feb 16, 2007 12:58 pm

Yeah. they are a bit tough to get to, especially the one tucked between the tranny and block. There shouldn't be a problem taking it off after head removal.
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Postby rallyst165 » Fri Feb 16, 2007 3:21 pm

Every time I've ever had my head off I left the intake on. It's way easier too get too the brackets from underneath the car. I just take the two bolts out of them that are attached to the intake and lift the head out.
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Postby tw2 » Sun Feb 18, 2007 5:05 am

Thanks for your replies. I managed to get the right hand stay out but the left was absolutely impossible to remove so i got a hack saw blade and chopped it in half since I will not be replacing it anyway. This can be done from the right hand side of the car through the tie rod hole should anyone else wish to do the same thing. I could not get any combination of tools on there (under the car or from the top) except a couple of different spanners but the bolt was way way too tight to even budge without a proper breaker bar. I have left the manifold on since as pointed out there is no reason to take it off otherwise.

The BGB says to remove the TVIS before removing the head. I have disconnected the electrical connectors (and removed harness) and taken off the vacuum lines. Is it necessary to undo the 2 bolts the manual mentions and take out the TVIS vacuum tank ect? I cannot see whether they are connected to the block and the head or just the head in which case they can stay on.

Also is it necessary to remove the water bypass pipes? Once again the not always very practical BGB says remove it but since one side is connected to the hose from hell I do not really want to disturb it. I have undone the 2 bolts connecting it to the head but I see no reason to actually remove it.
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Postby Stubble » Tue Feb 20, 2007 2:50 am

Probably not necessary to unbolt the T-VIS, but you risk banging it into stuff when the head is on its way out. Way the pros/cons of that vs trying to get at the bracket bolts.

Isn't the water by-pass pipe bolted to the head? Or are you thinking about just undoing those bolts and lifting the head out? If all you're worried about is disturbing the hose from hell, I heartily recommend replacing this $8 toyota part anyway while you're in there. And make sure you replace the one on the back of the block - the HFH #2.
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Postby alltracman78 » Tue Feb 20, 2007 3:53 am

Both intake manifold stays can be acessed with the engine in the car.
It's a PITA, but can be done. IMO better than cutting, but to each their own.
I only removed the top bolts. I left the bottom ones on. Had no trouble [other than tightening them] getting the head back on.

Just loosen up the bypass line.
You probably want to loosen the 2 nuts holding it to the water pump. Otherwise it might be too tight when the head goes back on.

You don't have to remove the TVIS stuff. It's all bolted to the intake man.

While you're in there, it's a REALLY good idea to swap ALL the phillips screws for allen or regular bolts. Much easier when one is tight or rusted.
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Postby tw2 » Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:20 am

I got the head out no problem. The TVIS is not in the way at all. The stay bolts were in very very tight. There is no way I would be able to get the other one out. It took a large breaker bar to get it off the manifold. So apart from that it has been reasonably easy especially since I have played around with the timing belt before. I might do a write up if it might help anyone? I am rebuilding the easy parts of the head myself.

As for the bypass lines yes I meant just unbolt them from the head but do not remove them at all. I know it would be good to replace the HFH but unless it comes with the full head set I ordered I will just wait for it to need replacing, I have already bought new everything and I find taking the turbo off is quite easy.

alltracman78 I assume you mean the valve cover screws to be replaced with proper bolts? I have already done that but there are no other screws anywhere else are there?

I covered the block in gladwrap (plastic cling wrap stuff) as soon as I removed the head to prevent crap getting in there. Are the only oil channels the 3 large ones at the rear of the block going to the head? I will block them up seperately if they are the only ones.
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Postby alltracman78 » Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:10 am

There are a bunch of screws.

The ISC valve is has 6 I believe.
2? on the TVIS mounting bracket.
2 holding the TVIS actuator.
TPS has 2.
And of course the ones on the valve cover.
Possibly a few more I am forgetting.

When I tore my engine down last winter, I replaced EVERY screw with a bolt.

Those 3 large holes are actually the drains for the head.

The head supply galleys are the small ones in the block.
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Postby Stubble » Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:18 am

ISC valve has 4 - just replaced them this weekend. :D
If memory serves, the two bolts holding down the distributor "cam" cap are torx. Might want to get rid of them. I recall stripping them before squeezing on a set of vise grips.

My TPS was still factory marked for calibration, so I've left it as is.
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Postby bloodMoney » Thu Feb 22, 2007 9:54 pm

yes a write-up would help immensely! I've got some issues there too and having another set of how-to's on top of the chilton's would be great... The chilton's really doesn't say this probably should be done, however its really not necessary and kinda redundant :shoots:

So yes a sticky would be nice...

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BTW: How long would you say that it took you to get the head out? Could someone with a pretty decent mechanical knowlege of american motors do it in a couple of hours? Sorry about all the newbie questions...
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Postby tw2 » Fri Feb 23, 2007 1:47 am

It took me a few full days to get the head off due to those manifold stays and just removing things which have never been removed before. I think it would take me 6 hours or so to do it again now that I know what I am doing. The head is at the rebuilders at the moment.
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Postby alltracman78 » Fri Feb 23, 2007 2:06 am

Stubble wrote:
If memory serves, the two bolts holding down the distributor "cam" cap are torx. Might want to get rid of them. I recall stripping them before squeezing on a set of vise grips.


I was leery of replacing these, as they're a little more critical than your basic screw for the valve cover or such.
I have no problems getting stronger bolts for it, but for something like that IMO it's best left stock.
Unless you're upgrading to ARP or something.
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Postby MrDB » Fri Sep 28, 2007 6:29 am

Just for a bit of future help.

To access rear stays.

right hand side (from front of car) can be accessed from right hand side with normal ring spanner, just remove pipes for access.

left hand side stand facing rear of car next to wing reach in and you will be able to get a normal ring spanner on. And have enough leaverage to undo unless mega tight.

undo all manifold bolts and intake should slide rearward but not unhook from head.

Remove head by lifting and raising front to unhook manifold.

refit by hooking manifold on first then dropping head on.

This way all of the stuff at rear of engine can be left on.
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Postby etantshi » Fri Sep 28, 2007 8:46 pm

Yes replace all those phillips... jeez dunno what toyota was thinking on that move...
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