Denver_whiteST185
New member
There are multiple suspension tuning options for our cars. Depending on what you want to do with your car, you may choose to follow these suggested steps. Before you do anything, a good set of tires will do wonders for your car. What is the point in modifying your car’s suspension to keep its tires in better contact with the road if you have crappy tires? Also, since you are modifying your suspension, make sure to get a good alignment and keep your car aligned after any changes. If you look, there is a sticky with specs from Whiteline on what to set our alignments to depending on the application (Whiteline handling pages thread). You will need camber bolts if you want to adjust the alignment beyond what the stock components are capable of.
This thread is just a guide. I would suggest reading up and doing research before doing any modification that you are not familiar with, and also to find out the differences between brands and types. The search button works awesome
As for where to buy, there are site sponsors, there are Internet stores, along with shops local to you. Do some searching to see where others have bought from, and who has the best pricing/service.
Step 1
When it comes to getting upgrading your suspension for performance, struts are the most important part. If you get some quality struts and some good springs that are comfortable for your needs, the car is going to ride and handle much better. Good struts simply do a better job at controlling suspension movements to keep the tire against the road. A note for our cars is that lowering it more than 1.5”-2” may actually cause wear problems due to the geometry of our suspensions. I wouldn’t recommend lowering it beyond this unless you modify other suspension components to make it safe.
Step 2
The second most important part is a good upgraded swaybar. They limit body roll which improves tire contact, which improves tire grip while cornering. Strut tower braces and underbracing can also help, and should be considered in this step.
Step 3
Then you get to the tertiary products. Those are things like bushings, strut tops, endlinks, etc. They're good ways to improve handling but should not be the first suspension modifications to a car since there is a lot more to be gained through struts, springs, and swaybars.
Level 1 - upgrade struts with stock springs – for daily drivers or people who don’t have a lot of disposable income to spend on suspension, but want something better
Even if you get basic replacement struts and keep you stock springs, you'll be amazed at just the difference if your current struts are old and/or blown. If you’re new to suspension tuning, do this first to get a feel of what you want your car to feel like.
Note to newbie’s: our rear struts are sealed, so you will have to convert them to accept insert style struts. There are instructions on how to do this if you search a bit. If needed, ST185 front struts will work in a ST165 with a spacer. However, you cannot use ST165 struts on a ST185 unless you want to get creative to make the strut sit lower in the housing. 935 motorsports sells a correct spacer for ST165’s, although I don't know how much it needs to be spaced.
Also, OEM Toyota struts and springs can be purchased from the dealership, which aren't too expensive, if you do not want to convert your rear struts or if you want "new stock" feel, I would call around for some pricing. www.1sttoyotaparts.com is also a good resource.
KYB GR2 - approximately 15% firmer than stock struts (less than $200 shipped)
FYI, people say GR2’s are not a suitable upgrade because of the alltrac’s weight in comparison to a FWD Celica and MR2’s. However, they are the same as the rear struts off an MR2, and I believe that their rear struts handle more weight than what the rear of an alltrac weighs. As for the fronts, the weight difference shouldn’t be significant enough to affect them, and they are still a good upgrade over old stock components.
Part numbers -
ST185:
Front– 365075
Rear - 365100
ST165:
Front– 365064
Rear - 365100
KYB AGX - adjustable (either 4 or 8 levels of dampening between 0% and 120% firmer than stock)
Part numbers –
ST185:
Front - Not available
Rear - 765016 (off an MR2, will work)
ST165:
Front – 765015 (same as FWD Celica’s)
Rear - 765016 (off an MR2, will work)
Level 2 - KYB struts or new OEM struts, with non-adjustable springs – people who want a responsive driving car, a lowered car, and/or may take it to a track day for fun
Increasing spring rates is a good way to upgrade your suspension. Most aftermarket springs also lower the ride height too, making the spring stiffer, and making it react quicker over a shorter distance. A variety of companies sell springs for our cars. Some may be discontinued, but companies with springs specific to AWD Celica’s are:
Whiteline
Eibach (Europe availability only I believe)
B & G
TRD
Interix
Apex-I (discontinued)
Megan racing (Quality :shrug
DR Racing
J Speed Low Down Springs
Ground control also has an adjustable coilover-like sleeve spring package, which gives you height and stiffness adjustably, which is closer to a full coilover type suspension. FYI, these should be corner balanced by a shop with the right equipment so that they handle correctly.
Level 3 - Koni struts with aftermarket springs – race worthy for people with pockets a little too shallow for coilovers
Koni’s, simply put, are the shit when it comes to individual struts. They have adjustable stiffness based on a knob that is attachable at the top of the strut. They are much stiffer than the stock suspension even on their softest setting. A set of 4 will put you around $600-$700 after shipping.
If you get ground control sleeve springs, you will pretty much have the same thing as a full coilover, just without the solid strut top and you’ll need camber bolts for custom alignments.
Part numbers -
ST185:
Front - 8641-1211 (same as FWD Celica’s)
Rears - either 8641-1212 (same as FWD Celica’s) or 8610-1318 (designed to handle more weight. originally designed for front Subaru legacy inserts, will work)
ST165:
Front - 8641-1115 (same as FWD Celica’s)
Rears - either 8641-1116 (same as FWD Celica’s) or 8610-1318 (designed to handle more weight. originally designed for front Subaru inserts, will work)
935 also lists a strut, part number 8610-1437 (race spec Koni) for ST185 front struts and for both ST185 and ST165 rear struts. They should be able to work on ST165 front struts with the spacer I mentioned earlier. I don't know much about them though.
Level 4 – Full coilovers – for people building racing setups or are wanting an all-in-one package with full adjustability, and also have a bit of disposable income
Coilovers are bolt on suspension components that normally come pre-assembled. They are height and rate adjustable, and also feature adjustable dampening. Most also include solid strut tops, which eliminate any numbness that is sometimes associated with them. Most solid strut tops for out cars feature camber adjustability for the front, and are fixed in the rear. Companies that make Coilovers for our cars are:
Tein SS (HA’s were available, but are discontinued)
J Speed
JIC
DMS (40mm and 50mm)
Hotbits suspension
C-One
K-sport
G4 racing (ebay)
There are a few custom packaged coilovers out there from Blisten and other companies, but to my knowledge they were not mass produced.
Additional Items:
Rear Swaybars – (FYI, there are some clearance problems with coilovers and rear swaybars, please be sure to check when installing both)
Whiteline
C-One (same as rear ST205 bar)
Front swaybars
Whiteline – ST165 only, ST185 is discontinued
Strut tops upgrades:
TRD (hardened rubber)
Cusco (aluminum – adjustable front, solid rear)
noltec (see Gary ST165's post below)
Endlinks:
Racing beat (for Miata, will work on ST165 and ST185 rears)
H&T from twosrus (front and rear, both generations)
Underbraces:
Note – you may have clearance issues with an underbrace and an aftermarket midpipe
Cusco (Aluminum: both 2-point type I and 4-point type II)
Ace Engineering (coated steel: 4-point design with more exhaust clearance)
J speed (4 point design)
Upper strut tower braces:
Whiteline (front and rear – two point) – front may have clearance issues on USDM hoods
Ace engineering (rear only – two point)
Jspeed – (front and rear – three point, fender braces are also available)
C-one (rear – two point, trunk bar also available) (front is available for a ST205, may not work on earlier generations)
Cusco (front and rear – two point – multiple designs available)
Bushings-
Super Pro makes a bunch of upgraded suspension bushing for our cars for different points. You will also see a noticeable gain by replacing certain bushings with new OEM bushings.
Camber kits are also available through Whiteline, and other companies.
Lastly, true race/rally cars will be seam welded, fully caged, and may have custom machined parts to compensate for lowering, wheel sizes, alignments, and to reduce sprung weight within the suspension. I suggest lots of research so you can make your own decisions about your suspension if you ever reach that point
-Ted
This thread is just a guide. I would suggest reading up and doing research before doing any modification that you are not familiar with, and also to find out the differences between brands and types. The search button works awesome
As for where to buy, there are site sponsors, there are Internet stores, along with shops local to you. Do some searching to see where others have bought from, and who has the best pricing/service.
Step 1
When it comes to getting upgrading your suspension for performance, struts are the most important part. If you get some quality struts and some good springs that are comfortable for your needs, the car is going to ride and handle much better. Good struts simply do a better job at controlling suspension movements to keep the tire against the road. A note for our cars is that lowering it more than 1.5”-2” may actually cause wear problems due to the geometry of our suspensions. I wouldn’t recommend lowering it beyond this unless you modify other suspension components to make it safe.
Step 2
The second most important part is a good upgraded swaybar. They limit body roll which improves tire contact, which improves tire grip while cornering. Strut tower braces and underbracing can also help, and should be considered in this step.
Step 3
Then you get to the tertiary products. Those are things like bushings, strut tops, endlinks, etc. They're good ways to improve handling but should not be the first suspension modifications to a car since there is a lot more to be gained through struts, springs, and swaybars.
Level 1 - upgrade struts with stock springs – for daily drivers or people who don’t have a lot of disposable income to spend on suspension, but want something better
Even if you get basic replacement struts and keep you stock springs, you'll be amazed at just the difference if your current struts are old and/or blown. If you’re new to suspension tuning, do this first to get a feel of what you want your car to feel like.
Note to newbie’s: our rear struts are sealed, so you will have to convert them to accept insert style struts. There are instructions on how to do this if you search a bit. If needed, ST185 front struts will work in a ST165 with a spacer. However, you cannot use ST165 struts on a ST185 unless you want to get creative to make the strut sit lower in the housing. 935 motorsports sells a correct spacer for ST165’s, although I don't know how much it needs to be spaced.
Also, OEM Toyota struts and springs can be purchased from the dealership, which aren't too expensive, if you do not want to convert your rear struts or if you want "new stock" feel, I would call around for some pricing. www.1sttoyotaparts.com is also a good resource.
KYB GR2 - approximately 15% firmer than stock struts (less than $200 shipped)
FYI, people say GR2’s are not a suitable upgrade because of the alltrac’s weight in comparison to a FWD Celica and MR2’s. However, they are the same as the rear struts off an MR2, and I believe that their rear struts handle more weight than what the rear of an alltrac weighs. As for the fronts, the weight difference shouldn’t be significant enough to affect them, and they are still a good upgrade over old stock components.
Part numbers -
ST185:
Front– 365075
Rear - 365100
ST165:
Front– 365064
Rear - 365100
KYB AGX - adjustable (either 4 or 8 levels of dampening between 0% and 120% firmer than stock)
Part numbers –
ST185:
Front - Not available
Rear - 765016 (off an MR2, will work)
ST165:
Front – 765015 (same as FWD Celica’s)
Rear - 765016 (off an MR2, will work)
Level 2 - KYB struts or new OEM struts, with non-adjustable springs – people who want a responsive driving car, a lowered car, and/or may take it to a track day for fun
Increasing spring rates is a good way to upgrade your suspension. Most aftermarket springs also lower the ride height too, making the spring stiffer, and making it react quicker over a shorter distance. A variety of companies sell springs for our cars. Some may be discontinued, but companies with springs specific to AWD Celica’s are:
Whiteline
Eibach (Europe availability only I believe)
B & G
TRD
Interix
Apex-I (discontinued)
Megan racing (Quality :shrug
DR Racing
J Speed Low Down Springs
Ground control also has an adjustable coilover-like sleeve spring package, which gives you height and stiffness adjustably, which is closer to a full coilover type suspension. FYI, these should be corner balanced by a shop with the right equipment so that they handle correctly.
Level 3 - Koni struts with aftermarket springs – race worthy for people with pockets a little too shallow for coilovers
Koni’s, simply put, are the shit when it comes to individual struts. They have adjustable stiffness based on a knob that is attachable at the top of the strut. They are much stiffer than the stock suspension even on their softest setting. A set of 4 will put you around $600-$700 after shipping.
If you get ground control sleeve springs, you will pretty much have the same thing as a full coilover, just without the solid strut top and you’ll need camber bolts for custom alignments.
Part numbers -
ST185:
Front - 8641-1211 (same as FWD Celica’s)
Rears - either 8641-1212 (same as FWD Celica’s) or 8610-1318 (designed to handle more weight. originally designed for front Subaru legacy inserts, will work)
ST165:
Front - 8641-1115 (same as FWD Celica’s)
Rears - either 8641-1116 (same as FWD Celica’s) or 8610-1318 (designed to handle more weight. originally designed for front Subaru inserts, will work)
935 also lists a strut, part number 8610-1437 (race spec Koni) for ST185 front struts and for both ST185 and ST165 rear struts. They should be able to work on ST165 front struts with the spacer I mentioned earlier. I don't know much about them though.
Level 4 – Full coilovers – for people building racing setups or are wanting an all-in-one package with full adjustability, and also have a bit of disposable income
Coilovers are bolt on suspension components that normally come pre-assembled. They are height and rate adjustable, and also feature adjustable dampening. Most also include solid strut tops, which eliminate any numbness that is sometimes associated with them. Most solid strut tops for out cars feature camber adjustability for the front, and are fixed in the rear. Companies that make Coilovers for our cars are:
Tein SS (HA’s were available, but are discontinued)
J Speed
JIC
DMS (40mm and 50mm)
Hotbits suspension
C-One
K-sport
G4 racing (ebay)
There are a few custom packaged coilovers out there from Blisten and other companies, but to my knowledge they were not mass produced.
Additional Items:
Rear Swaybars – (FYI, there are some clearance problems with coilovers and rear swaybars, please be sure to check when installing both)
Whiteline
C-One (same as rear ST205 bar)
Front swaybars
Whiteline – ST165 only, ST185 is discontinued
Strut tops upgrades:
TRD (hardened rubber)
Cusco (aluminum – adjustable front, solid rear)
noltec (see Gary ST165's post below)
Endlinks:
Racing beat (for Miata, will work on ST165 and ST185 rears)
H&T from twosrus (front and rear, both generations)
Underbraces:
Note – you may have clearance issues with an underbrace and an aftermarket midpipe
Cusco (Aluminum: both 2-point type I and 4-point type II)
Ace Engineering (coated steel: 4-point design with more exhaust clearance)
J speed (4 point design)
Upper strut tower braces:
Whiteline (front and rear – two point) – front may have clearance issues on USDM hoods
Ace engineering (rear only – two point)
Jspeed – (front and rear – three point, fender braces are also available)
C-one (rear – two point, trunk bar also available) (front is available for a ST205, may not work on earlier generations)
Cusco (front and rear – two point – multiple designs available)
Bushings-
Super Pro makes a bunch of upgraded suspension bushing for our cars for different points. You will also see a noticeable gain by replacing certain bushings with new OEM bushings.
Camber kits are also available through Whiteline, and other companies.
Lastly, true race/rally cars will be seam welded, fully caged, and may have custom machined parts to compensate for lowering, wheel sizes, alignments, and to reduce sprung weight within the suspension. I suggest lots of research so you can make your own decisions about your suspension if you ever reach that point
-Ted
