Project tw2: next stage

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Postby tw2 » Wed Aug 27, 2008 3:53 am

Nice. I can see why you were asking about the radiator clearance. I can't quite see how you did the pipe coming off the turbo but I guess the reducer bend I chose is why I have heaps of room. Do you have a dump tube (screamer pipe) coming off your wastegate?

Does the heat wrap make a difference? I am considering wrapping the whole exhaust housing in ceramic tape to keep the heat down.
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Postby pit_celica » Sat Sep 06, 2008 12:01 pm

I had a flexible screaming pipe, but my poor welder job (I'm really not a welder and I learned it...) was total crap and I lost the screaming tube on the road...

Anyway, I'll have a good one built this winter by a known welder.

For the radiator clearance, yes your reducer bend help you. Anyway, it's o for me, it's close but I can live with it.

I will recommend the heat wrap on any stainless steel downpipe and manifold. It keeps the engine bay temps very low. Even after a hard run, I can place my hand 1/2" near the downpipe or the manifold and I'm not burned.

But I'll suggest you to do not use the paint I use (black silicone coating from DEI, it do not look really good).

So, any other comments on your setup? Did you get it to the strip? To the dyno? Let us know!

Sam
1991 Toyota Celica GT-S ST184 with 3SGTE gen4 ST215 swap, Megasquirt 3 + MS3X, t3/t4 turbo, 3" full exhaust, front mount intercooler and more for fun !!!!!
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Postby tw2 » Sun Sep 07, 2008 8:28 am

I will wrap the downpipe when I can be bothered taking it off at some point. I would really like a turbo beanie until I saw that they were $300. I might attemp to wrap the exhaust housing in heat wrap but I can't see that working too well.

Anyway just come back from a 2000km trip so we can safely say nothing has failed. The full volume of oil is still in the engine. I fixed my valve cover leak which helped. I guess it will take until I have put a good 10,000km on the turbo to see how the quality of my kit holds up as far as welds- especially where the adaptor is concerned and the turbo itself.

I am very happy that I have a lot more power than before obviously but I am still not happy with the delivery. There is more power at every stage throughout the rev range but it is only at 5000 and over where it really pulls. I am convinced that there is a torque hole around 3000-5000 and I bet it is the stock ecu dumping all the fuel it can.... I wouldn't be surpised if the injectors were continuously open and ignition was being pulled.

Next year when I get an ecu and tune it I think I will get a huge difference at the same boost. As for real world driving, I can easily keep up with any new sedan from honda through nissan, wrx's are fine as well as evo's. I don't have enough to take on the new V8's yet. Followed a ~07 Holden Commodore, I could keep up but I sunk behind when he gunned it (they are 6.0L V8's 270kw)

Unfortunately I have no money, I am a student and it took me a good 12 months to piece most of this kit together so no dyno sorry and definitely no track. But this shows you can still do things on a budget if you plan well and source materials carefully.
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Postby tw2 » Tue Sep 09, 2008 5:57 am

I nearly got 600km on my last tank of gas. Admittedly it was 95% open road driving but its not as though I was taking it easy.

How is your setup pit_celica? How much boost are you running? How have you tuned your megasquirt? Any issues with it?
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Postby pit_celica » Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:43 am

My setup is running good. I'm running off the stock external wastegate spring for the boost : 11.5 psi. It pulls great and my AFR are ok at 11.5-11.0. The megasquirt is tuned near perfect on the fuel side (all the AFR are ok everywhere). Now, I need some some of knocking indication to try to tune the ignition side of the Megasquirt. I know that a lot of power is hidden in timing.

Megasquirt has a feature to calculate HP. According to this calculator, I did a 3rd gear pull at 11.5 psi and I acheived 235 hp to the front wheels at 6000 RPM. I always shift before 6500 RPM because this part of the map (high RPM and high boost) are ideal to knock. And because I dont have any knock finder, I will not run near 7500 RPM. I think that at 7500 RPM, I can do 250-260 whp.

I suppose that raising the boost to 15-16 psi will get me to 300 whp easily.

BTW, this is my first booosted car and I love that.

BTW, I did 8.8L/100 km on my last tank filling. I think that this is very nice with the MS hooked up. This means that my partial throttle tuning is really good.

Now, I received my spal fan for my rad and I installed it. Now I'm ready to go to the drag strip (1/8 mile near my home) and let's see what I can do.
1991 Toyota Celica GT-S ST184 with 3SGTE gen4 ST215 swap, Megasquirt 3 + MS3X, t3/t4 turbo, 3" full exhaust, front mount intercooler and more for fun !!!!!
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Postby tw2 » Tue Sep 09, 2008 7:52 pm

I thought that over a certain rpm there isn't enough time to knock. Yeah 8.8 sounds good, I don't think I could get that low with awd. I'm just really looking forward to having it tuned. What size injectors did you go with?
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Postby pit_celica » Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:23 pm

i'm using 540cc injectors at 43.5 psi fuel pressure (adjustable FPR). These injector are the stock ST215 one, they are the same size as ST205 one, but the ST215 are top-feed and high impedance.

Anyway, let me know when you will have your setup tuned.

I'll let you know any update on my side.

Sam
1991 Toyota Celica GT-S ST184 with 3SGTE gen4 ST215 swap, Megasquirt 3 + MS3X, t3/t4 turbo, 3" full exhaust, front mount intercooler and more for fun !!!!!
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Postby tw2 » Tue Sep 09, 2008 10:36 pm

I suspect it will be early to mid next year. I have a top feed fuel rail already but I will need to find some injectors and order a walbro.... and coming up with $1800 for an ems will be a challenge :|
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Postby tw2 » Sun Sep 21, 2008 12:02 am

Finally got around to wrapping the downpipe. I removed it to do so and took the wastegate off. Unfortunately the gaskets for the wastegate and probably the downpipe have disintegrated which really sucks. I have no idea where to find new ones. They were crappy cardboard ones. Does anyone know if tial has better ones?

Anyway here is the downpipe and my horrible looking heatshield.
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And here is my cheap fuel rail I picked up off trademe. I haven't tested it yet but it looks pretty good.
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Postby pit_celica » Sun Sep 21, 2008 11:53 am

1991 Toyota Celica GT-S ST184 with 3SGTE gen4 ST215 swap, Megasquirt 3 + MS3X, t3/t4 turbo, 3" full exhaust, front mount intercooler and more for fun !!!!!
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Postby tw2 » Sun Sep 21, 2008 9:31 pm

Thanks. I emailed the seller of the wastegate who told me the cardboard gaskets are pretty much 1 use only and that people usually run without one at all. He recommeded gasket maker which I have already used in the meantime. I will probably order some of those stainless ones from ebay since I am pretty sure I have a huge exhaust leak between my downpipe and turbo now and will not pass my 6 monthly warrant.
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Postby tw2 » Wed Jan 21, 2009 3:55 am

Well the turbo kit is holding together 100% fine after who knows how many thousands of km's. Since then I have added stainless steel brake lines- write up here http://alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=31186

And now I am getting stuck into megasquirt so I thought I should probably put updates etc here rather than in the sticky which can be found here http://alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=31249

As of right now I have just ordered a wideband plug and bung in advance as I need to have a hole in my downpipe welded up anyway (it has always been there since it was created due to some very average welding). I decided on a 4" 36-1 trigger wheel to use with my ford EDIS setup and ordered that also. 4" is smaller than the crank pulley so will be done slightly differently to the usual way. The next size 6 3/4 was way too large and I couldn't be bothered finding a 5" or so one which would have worked the best.

I also ordered an 18" long DB37 (standard 37 pin plug used with megasquirt) loom to make an adaptor loom. The other end will be soldered up to an ecu plug I plan to steal from a 1990 camry V6 ecu which has the same plugs as the stock 3sgte loom. This way I will not have to destroy my stock loom and I can do all the wiring well away from the car. Many honda ecu's also have identical plugs.

I have bought everything from DIYautotune. I am going to use 2 sump bolts and an extra block bolt and make a custom bracket for the VR sensor. I want it to be very very strong and reliable. I should have all the brackets made, new hardware installed and loom done within a few weeks.
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Postby Terracar » Wed Jan 21, 2009 4:19 am

tw2 wrote:Well the turbo kit is holding together 100% fine after who knows how many thousands of km's.

I have bought everything from DIYautotune. I am going to use 2 sump bolts and an extra block bolt and make a custom bracket for the VR sensor. I want it to be very very strong and reliable. I should have all the brackets made, new hardware installed and loom done within a few weeks.


Very glad to hear the DIY turbo kit is holding up - most likely due to some good planning/thought.

Please keep us updated on the progress of the sensors - it is always a nice treat for me to see the different ingenious ways people come up with for constructing the brackets/setups.

-Terracar
'92 'trac - Demon - currently in need of some reconstructive surgery.
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Postby tw2 » Thu Jan 22, 2009 2:08 am

First update- enjoy....

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Here is the bracket I made (2mm alluminium) and the space it is going to go into since there is no need for the stock coil and MAP sensor after this.

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I used some rubber spacers behind both bolts, I am not sure how resistant to vibration these things are. I should have paid closer attention to the car I removed it from. Next pic is the bracket (3mm alluminium) I am making for the coil pack. I really need to have a look at the engine bay where it came from as far as heat shielding etc goes + I still need the ford ignition leads.

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I guess this confirms I have a power steering leak. I cleaned everything a few months ago so I get deep red PS fluid now unlike the brown crap I could never even tell what it was.

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I have a couple of ideas as to mount the trigger wheel but I still need to remove the pulley. I suspect I will do something with those two holes.

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This is the hard part. I have no idea how to mount a bracket. I would like to use the three blue circled bolts but they are by no means perfect. There is a serious lack of good places under there.
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Postby pit_celica » Thu Jan 22, 2009 10:59 am

I will suggest you to do it this way :

http://www.turbomr2.com/MR2/HowTo/TEC3/ ... _small.JPG

Use 2 bolts from the oil pump, lengthen them and build a kind of bracket from there.

TIP : try to build it adjustable in all way, this will be helpful further for fine adjustment. If it's not -35°C outside (damn january cold month here in Quebec), I'll try to get clear pics of my sensor setup.
1991 Toyota Celica GT-S ST184 with 3SGTE gen4 ST215 swap, Megasquirt 3 + MS3X, t3/t4 turbo, 3" full exhaust, front mount intercooler and more for fun !!!!!
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