ST185 + CT20B = ???hp

A

Anonymous

Guest
Hohoho.

I am new to this board and have been reading trough the messages concerning the ST205 CT20B turbo. Currently I am running ST185 Carlos Sainz 3S-GTE (2nd gen with Water IC), 4" downpipe, custom 3" exhaust and programmable ECU (DTA E48XP). Earlier this year I had 235hp at 0.8bar with CT26 and boost control problems. During this winter I am planning the following upgrades :

CT20B turbo (with ceramic wheel).
Metal headgasket.
New RX-7 turbo fuel pump.
Ceramically tampered standard pistons.
TRD bearings all around.

As you can see, I am using the stock water IC system (if I can find a ST205 IC core I will use it). The goal for these mods would be 300 engine horsepower. How realistic is this goal?

Biggest concern for me at the moment is, if the stock IC will be enough to get 300hp? Will it flow? Will intake temperatures raise too much?

And does someone have knowledge of what is the safe boost limit for CT20B? Some say 16, some say over 20... Or how much boost do YOU run with it? And do you have any intake temperature readings?

Thank you in advance :)
 

Meurz

New member
The stock WTA tmic we got can handle up to about 400 hp. If you want to make it more efficient, you can insulate it, or activate the sprayers, as I copied a while ago from the GT4OC forum:

First remove front under trays and drivers plastic inner wheel arch.
now you will see at the bottom of the screen wash tank there is another pump which looks like a large screen wash pump.
you will see a pipe coming from this pump going to a large t-piece and a pipe from the t-piece goes along behind the front bumper and connects to two round jets in the middle of the bumper pointing to the chargecooler radiator.
(if you still have air-con the jets will be pointing at the air-con condenser so this mod is only worth doing if air-con is removed)
first thing to do is:if you look at the large t-piece there will be 3 connections,one from the pump on the s/wash tank,one going to the front spray jets behind bumper,and one outlet will be blanked off,the blanked off outlet has a arrow showing this is the correct outlet for the direction of flow of water to the spray jets.
so remove the blanking plug from this outlet and swap with the pipe going to to the spray jets or if you want remove this t-piece completely and join the pipe from the pump to the pipe going to the spray jets,so basically you are connecting the pump to the spray jets.(the t-piece only provides a dead end for the screen was fluid because with out this t-piece the screen wash fluid will leak out of the spray jets untill the level in the s/wash tank gets below the height of the spray jets.)
That is all you have to do for the plumbing side of things.(i read somewhere you have to modify inside the s/wash tank to expose another chamber for the fluid to get to this pump BUT this is not true!!)
so now when you fill your s/wash tank right to the top some fluid will pour out of the spray jets untill the level drops BUT this is minimal!!
Now for the wiring,you will see two wires coming from the pump which go into the wiring loom,just cut the wires from the loom so you have a few inches of wire coming from the pump.
now you can test if your pump works by connecting a couple of lengths of wire to the battery and to the pump wiring,when connected the pump will activate(sounds just like a s/wash pump)and you should have water spraying out of both spray jets!!!!
so now you know it works,time to wire it in to your car.
this is how i did it but you could use a relay if you really wanted.
solder a length of wire to one wire from the pump and route it round to your battery positive terminal.(fit a inline fuse next to battery)so the pump has a constant live feed.(or connect to an after ignition feed)
solder another length of wire to the other pump wire and route this wire into the inside of your car.
now you need a simple 2 terminal switch-i used a spring loaded switch rather than a on/off switch,so you can give a quick squirt just like a s/wash switch works.
once you have decided where you are gonna mount the switch you can now route the wire to the switch and connect to the switch.
scince the pump has a constant live feed the switch will be controlling the earth for the pump.
so fit a wire to an earth point close to the switch and connect this wire to the second terminal on the switch.(so when you flick the switch this provides an earth for the pump and will operate the system.)
HEY PRESTO now you have activated your charge cooler spray system!(there are various ways you can wire up the system its up to you how you do it)
I also had to move the horns as the spray from the jets was hitting them.
i also had to adjust the jets slightly so they were spraying directly at the c/cooler radiator,just buy pulling/pushing them in the right direction.
i know this post is a bit long winded but it is a really easy modification to carry out!!
Some people will say that the jets spray out too much water,but actually they give off a fine mist,buy using a spring loaded switch you can control the amount getting sprayed.
if you had an on/off switch,it would spray too much if on switched on and left on.
after all it is just a large screen wash pump and works exactly the same so you just need to give the system a few quick squirts rather than switching on and leaving on!

THIS IS ONLY A GUIDE IT'S UP TO YOU HOW YOU DO YOURS!
so now you know that the RC+CS does have this spray system and is not just a "supposed to have" story and is p*ss easy to activate.
Quite amazing that this pump and jets are 12 years old and have never been used,but worked first time perfectly when hooked-up!!
 
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