Excessive Oil Consumption Gen 5 3S-GTE

[Roreri]

Update!

I have the Saikou Michi catch can plumbed into the valve cover breather loop between the oem breather condenser box and the air intake. For now, it is just sitting there by the hoses. I will fab a brace so that it will be held firm. I am not expecting a great deal of oil being caught in that can. I guess I got it when I was seeing a lot of oil coming out that direction and being caught in the breather filter--maybe that will continue and be trapped in the catch can--we will see.

The M/E Wagner high flow PCV valve is plumbed into the PCV valve port on the timing belt side of the motor, and connected to the intake manifold without an oil catch can. The Saikou Michi catch can is rather excessively large, so it cannot fit on that side. I will get a smaller catch can--probably a Saikou Michi unit--for the PCV valve loop.

The AT-205 Re-Seal has been flowing around inside the motor reconditioning the seals for close to two weeks now, so hopefully that will have had some effect if the valve seals were in poor shape.

So, now we see what happens.

 

[Roreri]

Update!

I have the Saikou Michi catch can plumbed into the valve cover breather loop between the oem breather condenser box and the air intake. For now, it is just sitting there by the hoses. I will fab a brace so that it will be held firm. I am not expecting a great deal of oil being caught in that can. I guess I got it when I was seeing a lot of oil coming out that direction and being caught in the breather filter--maybe that will continue and be trapped in the catch can--we will see.

The M/E Wagner high flow PCV valve is plumbed into the PCV valve port on the timing belt side of the motor, and connected to the intake manifold without an oil catch can. The Saikou Michi catch can is rather excessively large, so it cannot fit on that side. I will get a smaller catch can--probably a Saikou Michi unit--for the PCV valve loop.

The AT-205 Re-Seal has been flowing around inside the motor reconditioning the seals for close to two weeks now, so hopefully that will have had some effect if the valve seals were in poor shape.

So, now we see what happens.

Drove the 55 miles from CSprings up to the TactiCon Game Convention this morning. Everything seemed well, though I admit I wasn’t looking over my shoulder. Close to the event site I stopped at a light and looked back and sure as shit, big cloud of white smoke.

Dammit.

It went away pretty quickly, though, and as I paid attention the last bit of the drive to the site I saw no smoke. Just blowing off some accumulation? I can’t tell.

It’s exasperating. Could be valve seals. Could be oil in the blow by. I’m not yet in the mood to do valve seals. So, I’ll add a catch can on the PCV valve side to see if I can dry out the loop. I figure a dual catch can setup is not going to hurt anything.

 

[Roreri]

After 400km, it does appear that the oil consumption is decreasing. A buddy of mine said that it takes about 500 miles for it to really kick in, and so I'm still in the wait and see mode.

I put another bottle of AT-205 Reseal into the engine oil and added a half a quart of oil yesterday. Drove it today for 30 or so miles around town and did not see any smoke cloud under any circumstances.

I ordered a Moroso 85474 air oil separator, to install on the PCV valve side. I'll install that this weekend and see how much oil it pulls out of the intake stream. Oil vapors getting through the PCV valve at high rpm can lower octane, so that is good insurance just to keep the intake stream clean.

I also picked up a set of AeroCatch hood pins.

 

[Roreri]

The items came today. It would be difficult to overstate how substantially built the Moroso 85474 is. It is also perfectly sized for the space available. I put a bit of FIPG on the threads of all the fittings, tightened them up to the desired position, and am letting it sit overnight. It will sit like the picture below, secured to the engine bay wall. The only thing I don't really understand at this very moment is whether there is an inlet and outlet. It seems like both of them feed to a stainless steel mesh and it doesn't much matter. EDIT: I have since discovered that the one on the left to the front of the engine compartment has a baffle and so I should route the PCV valve to it, then route the one on the right next to the Power Steering Fluid reservoir to the intake manifold. I do have the option to route this oil back to the sump if I want to tap the oil pan and run a line down. I don't know how much oil this unit will collect so I will see.

This video from Moroso with a clear can shows that wow, under high revs, quite a bit of oil can collect with the right motor and spirited driving--as the video description states this was over about a half hour of laying properly into a 2009 Cadillac STS:

WHAT IF THIS DOESN'T WORK?

I watched this video:

The presenter claims to have corrected a badly out of compression cylinder and more than halve the oil consumption of a badly burning Passat 1.8L--like 1L per 172 miles. Cylinders were like this: 150psi, 160psi, 160psi, and 120psi.

After running BG 44K through the fuel system, then doing BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner and BG Rinse Oil services, and adding BG MOA (not necessary to add to any high quality oil like we would do), the cylinders were 155psi, 150psi, 150psi, and 150psi. Oil consumption after these services was initially at 1L per 368 miles, then improved to 1L per 440 miles. That's worse than I am seeing right now with mine, but much improved. If you follow the thread of the presentation, what happened was carbon buildup on the motor's low tension oil control ring was broken down and these rings were then able to prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber. Is carboned up oil control rings my problem? Maybe.

The presenter does say, figure out your other stuff first--PCV valve and turbo--before assuming that you have a piston ring/oil control ring problem. As I am approaching that line, this is the next step IF the crankcase ventilation system improvements I am installing do not work.

This is not a service that I can do myself, but only because BG will not sell these products to me. So. That's a thought though if I'm willing to spend the money at my local shop that can get the stuff.

 

[Roreri]

I installed the Moroso unit today. Actually placing it was a bit of a hassle because of the hardlines at the bottom of the space but I got it in. I pulled the M/E Wagner PCV valve and repositioned it so that the output line was headed to the air oil separator. It’s sitting there for now with FIPG curing while I wax both Toyotas. I’ll test drive it tomorrow morning.

 

[Monachopsis]

I installed the Moroso unit today. Actually placing it was a bit of a hassle because of the hardlines at the bottom of the space but I got it in. I pulled the M/E Wagner PCV valve and repositioned it so that the output line was headed to the air oil separator. It’s sitting there for now with FIPG curing while I wax both Toyotas. I’ll test drive it tomorrow morning.

Looks oem. Clean fits nicely good work. Excited to see how our cars will compare here once I have my new intercooler and my pcv system

 

[Roreri]

Looks oem. Clean fits nicely good work. Excited to see how our cars will compare here once I have my new intercooler and my pcv system

Yeah. The unit looks nice and no ABS lets me put it in a nice up front location to showcase the engine compartment bling. It was a bit of a pain in the ass to get the holes drilled because of the tight space. I drilled the hole small at an angle then rotated the drill around to ream it, then I let the machine bolts thread through the just slightly too small holes for a solid fit. A right angle drill would have made that job easier but I have two drills a third ain't in the offing.

The hoses flow well and no kinks. I just have to tidy up that FIPG bead at the M/E Wagner PCV valve adapter seam, then it will look nice.

I am going to run a rubber hose down from the drain fitting and secure it so I can just set up a catch container under the car and open it when it comes time to drain. It's a narrow space there what with the belts but I can route it and secure it somewhere out of sight with a stainless zip tie.

 

[Roreri]

Well, the catch cans have not solved oil consumption/burning. The jury is still out on whether the AT-205 Reseal might condition the valve seals or whether the problem might be the oil control ring. Or maybe it was the turbo seal all along!

I drove about 100 miles today round trip to go see Monachopsis carve it up in an SCCA rallycross event. We convoyed for lunch and I asked if they saw any white or blue smoke. Yes. On acceleration. Not all the time.

I came home and the missus gave me a sniff and told me I smelled of exhaust. And I did smell oil while in stop and go traffic with the windows down.

So I’ll observe and consider my next move. I am at just 398 miles since adding AT-205 Reseal, but it's been 37 days so if the stuff was gonna work, it's had time.

 

[Roreri]

Today’s work: Compression test and spark plug condition check at 1000km since replacement.

All cylinders are very close: 140psi at 7200 feet altitude correcting to 173.9psi at sea level, with cylinder 4 being just two psi low—maybe operator error as I had to strain to see the gauge as I was turning it over and might have ceased a turn short on that one.

The spark plugs are not great. Dry fouling. Which is better than wet, I think.

I saw oil on the compression gauge on cylinders 1, 3, and 4. Mostly on 1 and 4, with just the tiniest bit on 3.

I re-installed the oil pressure gauge pod preparatory to the BG service I am considering—need to watch oil pressure throughout to be careful, as it calls for 3000rpm for 45 minutes with the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner then 3000rpm for 25 minutes with the Rinse Oil.

I figure it is one of two things: Either the valve stem seals or the oil control rings. The AT-205 Reseal has had about long enough to have done the job, having been put in about 400 miles ago, then I put more in about 100 miles ago.

 

[Monachopsis]

Hear me out....Sell me your engine, and swap a 2gr
Anyways, I'm going to Real Performance with my issues as Tony is still MIA. They're another shop recommended to me from the guy who linked me and Tony. They told me to send pictures and videos and they'll consult their import guy. Likely they'll have me deep clean the oil system and check back in 5k miles, BUT they also told me their extensive engine inspection is only $135. They told me it could almost completely zero in on the damaged part and they'll warranty their work. Tony's great, but he's still a one man op. I'd give em a call, let them know the other troublesome turbo celica sent you

 

[Roreri]

Hear me out....Sell me your engine, and swap a 2gr
Anyways, I'm going to Real Performance with my issues as Tony is still MIA. They're another shop recommended to me from the guy who linked me and Tony. They told me to send pictures and videos and they'll consult their import guy. Likely they'll have me deep clean the oil system and check back in 5k miles, BUT they also told me their extensive engine inspection is only $135. They told me it could almost completely zero in on the damaged part and they'll warranty their work. Tony's great, but he's still a one man op. I'd give em a call, let them know the other troublesome turbo celica sent you

I am not ready to surrender yet.

But I'm starting to get frustrated enough to consider it. I would never recommend a 3S-GTE swap, without it being opened and set right, as the motors are just too old and quality control is impossible without a complete teardown before install.

After hearing Mike talk about swapping a 2GR into his 165 and how unconcerned he is about the block shave if I were to do it I’d try to do it myself out there at his place if I could ingratiate myself with him.

UPDATE:

My conversation with Re4l Performance went like this: Me: "Hey, this is what I'm seeing." Them: "Well we can inspect it, but all of the problem is internal and you're talking some real money to open it up just to see what the problem is. Probably best to just swap in a new motor." I thanked him for talking with me.

My conversation with Legend Motor Works which I have had do some work on the GT-Four before went like this: Me: "This is what I'm seeing." Them: "Well, all of that is internal. We really don't know what we'd be in for and yours is the only JDM car we've worked on." Me: "I think we're talking carbonized oil control rings. Are you familiar with the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaning service?" Them: "That's not a service we normally offer let me check what that would run. We did do BG EPR and BG 44K and BG MOA through your Celica when we did the services earlier this year, just to remind you." ... (They Call A While Later) Them: "That would run about $1050." Me: "Jesus. I can do the work myself." Them: "If you can get the stuff from an off seller and be sure it's genuine." Me: "Well yeah that's the trick ain't it. Good to know what it would cost." No offer from them to source me the stuff. Of course.

I've also had some back and forth with Ty at TCS Motorsports. I sent a detailed email describing everything I laid out above and the crankcase pressure/catch can solutions I have applied. Based on the fact that it doesn't start smoking on start, Ty says that means it's almost always it's the turbo. I asked him: "How would the turbo be getting oil into the cylinders if not through the air intake and the throttle body? The intercooler pipes are dry, as is the throttle body." In response Ty advised me to remove the hose from the Moroso air oil separator and the intake manifold, and to cap that, because it's possible that under boost the PCV valve is opening and pressurizing the crankcase. Then basically let that hose from the Moroso unit vent into the engine compartment. The Saikou Michi catch can in the valve cover breather loop he thought in excess of needs but harmless.

I feel like I am chasing my tail, as that M/E Wagner dual flow PCV valve wasn't cheap and was some trouble to install, and I was only able to because Monachopsis built me an adapter. It was supposed to eliminate the crankcase not being under vacuum. That said, I have no idea whether it's allowing boost to pressurize the crankcase so I must consider it. So here's what I am going to try:

1. Per Ty's advice, I have capped the intake manifold vacuum port and disconnected the hose from the Moroso air oil separator and let that vent into the engine compartment to eliminate the possibility that under boost pressure is getting through the PCV valve and pressurizing the crankcase. Obviously this means that the line also does not evacuate the valve cover but rather just vents pressure. The valve cover breather provides some vacuum as it is connected to the air intake before the turbo.

QUESTION: Is there a oneway inline check valve that I could place on that hose from the Moroso air oil separator to the intake manifold vacuum line to be doubly sure that pressure isn't backing up to the PCV valve? Something I could put on the hose from the air-oil separator to the intake manifold that only allows air to flow one way--sort of a fail safe? Like the picture below.

This was the discussion thread at grassrootsmotorsports.com:

PCV System for Turbo Car

PCV System for Turbo Car

grassrootsmotorsports.com

This Motortrend article goes into PCV system builds in performance engines--oh look there's an M/E Wagner billet dual flow PCV valve right there on the top picture!

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/building-functional-pcv-systems-performance-engines/

2. I will clean the cylinders top and bottom to try and decarburize the oil control ring so that it will function better. A comment on that BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner video I posted above says: "Here is the recipe to solve 2.0tfsi oil burning. Get the engine hot. Remove spark plugs, mix 2oz PB Blaster, 1oz B-12 Chemtool, and 1/2oz MMO. Pour this mix in this quantity into each cylinder. As you pour, you'll hear the mix boiling in the cylinder. Always exercise good safety protocol. Let it sit with a paper towel in the spark plug hole until the piston is visually dry (24hrs). Take a compressed air blower with a long snout and put it in the spark plug hole and blow. You will not believe the amount of dried carbon that will blow out. You'll typically find the culprit cylinder at this time based on the amount of carbon blowing out. Crank the engine over with the plugs out to remove excess liquid. Install the plugs and drive the vehicle around the block. Repeat all of these steps again. This cleans the piston crown and rings from the top side. When starting the engine after the second soak, dump in a can of BG EPR or LiquiMoly engine flush and let it idle for 30 minutes. this cleans the rings from the bottom side. Change the oil and filter and call it a day! This cured an engine burning 1qt every 200 miles @160k miles. It now burns nothing between 5k mi oil changes. You will have to repeat this every so often (2-3 oil changes) as the rings will re-clog. Yes it's a pain, but it beats the cost of a new engine."

3. I will add LiquiMoly Viscoplus for Oil to thicken up the 10W30 VR1 I have been running. That might cut down on oil coming through the oil control ring. Per ATS I need to be running a high zinc motor oil for the CT16 turbo.

4. I could then pay for the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner service, if I am feeling spendy.

5. I could consider an electric vacuum pump like this unit or similar to put the crankcase under continuous positive vacuum and then push the output of that pump through the Moroso air oil separator and then out a long line to the bottom of the engine compartment and back:

Summit Racing SUM-760140 Summit Racing™ 12v Electric Vacuum Pumps | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ 12v Electric Vacuum Pumps with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Vacuum Pumps, Street at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

UPDATE UPDATE:

I am gathering the materials. The only thing I couldn’t find at my local parts stores was the LiquiMoly ViscoPlus for Oil and that’s just a few clicks away.

 

[Monachopsis]

Found this from a honda fourm regarding the same oil consumption issues

Amazon.com

 

[Roreri]

Found this from a honda fourm regarding the same oil consumption issues

Amazon.com

Thanks man. It’s in the realm of possibility. Going to go down the list.

UPDATE: The first run of 1oz B-12 Chemtool/2oz PB Blaster/.5oz Marvel Mystery Oil is in the cylinders for a 24 hour soak. Wish me luck!

Of note: The solution (which I had sat out in the sunlight for ten minutes to bring the temp up a bit) did quickly come to a boil and even bounced up out of the cylinder 1 spark plug hole when I pulled the funnel.

Also of note: Once you drop the solution into the cylinders, depart the area if it is in an enclosed or semi-enclosed space. It does fume up quite a bit, being essentially boiled and heated solvents.

UPDATE UPDATE: I also put a one way check valve on order. I have been running the hose loose off the Moroso air-oil separator for about 20 miles without incident but I figure that I will want to have vacuum when it's available for fuller crankcase evacuation. I can put that in line to the intake manifold to make certain sure that nothing is coming back from that line under boost to the crankcase.

 

[___Scott___]

Off topic but if the "2GR into his 165" swap is going to happen, I want to see a build thread!

 

[Monachopsis]

Off topic but if the "2GR into his 165" swap is going to happen, I want to see a build thread!

He already has a 3MZ in it, so wouldn't be the craziest thing. After my engine starting doing what it is I have been mentally playing with the idea of a 2ZZ supercharged swap or 2GR Supercharged.

 

[Roreri]

He already has a 3MZ in it, so wouldn't be the craziest thing. After my engine starting doing what it is I have been mentally playing with the idea of a 2ZZ supercharged swap or 2GR Supercharged.

That’s the sort of thing that comes into one’s brain at 2:00 in the morning. Get some sleep!

 

[Roreri]

I did as the procedure I am following said to do at 24 hours.

I pulled the paper towels, pulled the fuel relay and EFI Main, and turned the motor over with the starter to get out any excess fluid. I saw none splashed up on the valve cover out of the cylinders and I shoved paper towels down to the spark plug holes and got nothing. The solution had either evaporated or penetrated through the piston rings/oil control rings to the crankcase.

I fabricated a long snout and blew out the cylinders. This was very much a nothingburger. I expected a cloud of carbon, and had prepared for it with eye protection and respirator. I saw nothing blow out, even with repeated attempts to produce something. I'm keeping in mind that the expectation that I would see an unbelievable amount of dried carbon was relevant to a 2.0tfsi with direct fuel injection. I don't have a borescope so I cannot see into the cylinder to see before during and after condition of the cylinder. So I put this unit on order:

Amazon.com

I put it all back together and took it out on a drive around the block, which in my rural neighborhood was 6km. There was definitely more blue smoke early on, especially on the first mile which is in my neighborhood so 2-3000 rpm. Once I got it out on the main roads, at 3-5000 rpm, the smoke was no longer visible. Either it was not smoking, or the wind at that speed was just dissipating it before I could see it out the rear view mirror. I wasn't over 55mph. I am thinking that at that power level the valve cover breather routed to the air intake was evacuating the crankcase better. The blue smoke returned as I got back into the neighborhood and dropped to 2-3000 rpm.

Once back to the garage, I repeated the soak, pouring 1oz B-12 Chemtool/2oz PB Blaster/.5oz Marvel Mystery Oil solution into each cylinder, with cylinder 4 being the hot one that bubbled up a bit--I am guessing that 2 and 4 were high this time.

There it sits for 24 hours.

On another front, two front wheels arrived today, so I can get the MR2 back to what it was before I lost wheels to a bad road hazard last autumn. I had to throw on a pair of right now wheels so I could take it on a road trip to Seattle and couldn’t get the correct wheels in time. That’ll be nice to set right.

UPDATE: My crankcase ventilation system is diagrammed below. Dual catch can system with a one way check valve on the PCV valve to intake manifold loop which will prevent boost pressure from reaching back to the catch can, PCV valve, or crankcase. The valve cover breather vent passes first through an OEM condenser box then an oil catch can and should be under constant vacuum, and increased vacuum under boost as the turbo is spooled and wanting air. I do not have a huge filter at the intake but rather a smaller filter (still well more surface area than the 3” pipe), so the turbo can scavenge air from the crankcase. There is no time when the crankcase is not under vacuum--whether that vacuum is sufficient is another matter!

I have now pieced together the story of how I got here:

The crankcase ventilation system as installed by TCS consisted of an oem PCV valve and a valve cover breather tube leading to a breather filter. This was insufficient to the motor which had been tuned to produce close to 17 lbs of boost. The PCV valve side was obviously not evacuating crankcase pressure while under boost, and I was fairly frequently under boost--this car being what it is and me being who I am.

Crankcase pressure under boost conditions had only one way out--the valve cover breather tube, which went to the oem condenser box and then a breather filter. This breather filter became saturated with oil vapor and crankcase pressure built until it had no place to go but past the oil control rings into the combustion chamber. The problem manifested initially as an oily odor. Eventually, it manifested as blue smoke.

 

[Roreri]

The second soak of 1oz B-12/2oz PB Blaster/.5oz Marvel Mystery Oil is complete.

Compressed air down the spark plug holes yielded no visible carbon.

I received a borescope today and inspected the cylinder heads. I discovered why no carbon blew out: It is caked on hard. To use British understatement, there’s a bit of carbon in there. These two images are from cylinder 2, and are typical of all of them. But then again it’s probably not so bad.

I can reapproach loosening up that carbon either through more application of the same solution or another solution. Or some other method. Or I can just run it, and put some Seafoam in the motor oil. There are a variety of homebrew solutions, to include adding Marvel Mystery Oil or ATF to the motor oil, or revving and spraying water into the intake charge. Seafoam introduced into the throttle body is another touted carbon cure.

IF the crankcase ventilation is solved and IF that was the cause of excessive oil from the crankcase coming up through the oil control rings then the carbon may cure itself over time with application of the Italian tune up.

I’ll inspect the cylinder walls more thoroughly tomorrow, but with a little look nothing egregious jumped out at me. If there was anything egregious it would reflect in compression.

On the other front, the wheels on the MR2 are set to rights!

 

[Roreri]

TODAY'S WORK:

1. Today's work began with borescoping the cylinders more thoroughly to inspect the cylinder walls and get some horrorshow pics of the carbon buildup on the cylinder faces and the valves. I got some good ones, that's for sure (pics 1 and 2). Based on what I saw, I resolved that soaking the cylinder faces with 1oz B-12/2oz PB Blaster/.5oz Marvel Mystery Oil was not going to get shit done. But it might help decarbonize the compression rings and oil control rings. Maybe. Eventually. So I put everything back together.

2. I ran LiquiMoly Engine Flush for 15 minutes at a slightly high idle of 1000rpm. I observed some smoke during the test (pic 3).

3. I dumped the oil at 103,700km. The oil had only been run for 444 miles, and even after having the LiquiMoly Engine Flush run through it, I could still see light through the exiting oil stream. It wasn’t fully opaque. I added 4 quarts of Valvoline 10W30 VR1, a bottle of LiquiMoly Viscoplus for Oil, and 4oz of SeaFoam (pic 4), bringing the oil level to the top fill hole on the dipstick. Viscoplus for Oil has the effect of stabilizing the VR1 10W30: “Our Viscoplus for Oil does not increase the viscosity of motor oil, it stabilizes the viscosity at hot temperatures and helps to keep the oil consumption at the lowest level."

3. I then took Roreri out on a drive, keeping it between 3000 and 5000rpm, for 61km. Throughout, I discovered a sure way to induce smoke: Clutch in coast followed by clutch out and throttle. I repeated this several times during that run, but interestingly it became harder to induce smoke toward the end of the run. I picked up a bottle of SeaFoam Spray before returning home.

4. I found an out of the way place to commit an ecological crime and ran the SeaFoam Spray through the throttle body. When I popped the hood I observed that the oil dipstick was out of battery, a sure sign of excessive crankcase pressure (pic 5). The smoke cloud from the SeaFoam Spray was, as always, alarming (pic 6), but I knew what to expect as I have done it before on a different motor. After running the SeaFoam Spray through the throttle body I sat and idled the motor until no more smoke was coming from the exhaust.

5. I then took Roreri out on the old Italian tune up, keeping it at 4000-5000rpm (pic 7), hard and tight with several 0-5000rpm pulls from a dead stop. My inspiration was Ken Miles:

I found it impossible to induce smoke, observing it just once and under an engine brake condition. When I returned home, I observed no smoke on idle and garaged it, having run it 100km after the lower end cleaning with LiquiMoly Engine Flush and 40km after the top end cleaning with SeaFoam Spray. The oil dipstick was very much out of battery, though, to the point where I could see the rubber o-ring (pic 8).

CONCLUSIONS:

Folks have suggested that the new CT16 turbo I installed might have a faulty CHRA. I am having trouble understanding how the oil would be getting to the cylinders with the turbo outlet pipe and throttle body being clean and dry. Plus, the dipstick being out of battery is such a clear indicator.

What I have observed so far leads me to the conclusion that the issue here is insufficient crankcase ventilation leading to excessive crankcase pressure leading to blowby or blowby leading to excessive crankcase pressure that the ventilation system cannot cope with. Chicken or the egg problem, really. I am hoping that it's curable by increasing crankcase ventilation, because with compression being 170psi (when adjusted from 7200 feet to sea level) that doesn't strongly suggest a compression ring problem. But a leakdown test will verify.

This problem resulted in oil contamination of the cylinders which led to carbon fouling. If not stopped this will result in the compression ratio being artificially increased and oil poisoning of the charge which will lower octane. Then, detonation.

In addition, excessive crankcase pressure is impeding oil flow from the turbo back to the oil pan when the motor is under boost. Not good.

WAY AHEAD:

1. I will reconnect the PCV valve output to the intake manifold vacuum port, with an inline one way check valve to prevent boost from backing up into the valve cover and crankcase. If the issue is related to excessive crankcase pressure I will have done considerable to address it. The PCV valve side will evacuate while the motor is under vacuum. The valve cover breather vent will evacuate constantly and SHOULD increase evacuation under boost.

2. I will conduct a leakdown test. I have this kit on order:

Summit Racing 17-0006 Summit Racing™ Leakdown and Compression Tester Pro Packs | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Leakdown and Compression Tester Pro Packs with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Leakdown Testers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

3. I will continue to tune the M/E Wagner PCV valve and check it to be sure it is functioning.

4. If I absolutely MUST, I will install an electric vacuum pump and vent it to atmosphere with a filter low in the engine compartment.

5. I would like to find a way to gauge crankcase pressure in real time. You know, like an aircraft manifold pressure gauge. But for crankcase pressure. I guess I could rig up a hose to the top of the oil dipstick and snake the line out to a vacuum/pressure gauge taped onto the windshield!

6. I will double the octane boost dose I am adding to each tank of 91 octane as a safety measure.

7. I will stay on stage one of my electronic boost controller, which tops out at 11psi.

8. I will drive Roreri hard and tight, like I mean it. No less than 3000rpm, and gear changes at 5000rpm. The exception being while the motor oil at the cylinder head isn't yet warmed up. Good idle before shutdown to allow the turbo to cool and avoid coking.

9. I will change motor oil at 2000km (1242 mile) intervals, doing SeaFoam Spray and LiquiMoly Engine Flush before changing. I will add LiquiMoly Viscoplus and SeaFoam to the motor oil. Next change at 105,700km, then 107,700km.

10. I will borescope after two oil changes and engine flushes in 4000km.

11. I may choose to do the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaning service at any point during this.

 

[Roreri]

TODAY'S WORK:

1. I tested a vacuum gauge, rigging it up to a 3/8" id hose. While inhaling, I could develop 4 inches HG. While exhaling, I could develop 1psi, and I tested the gauge with a compressed air nozzle--it worked to show pressure and vacuum. I slipped the 3/8" id hose over the dipstick tube, then rigged the gauge to the hood where I could monitor it (pics 1 and 2).

2. I then took Roreri out on a 43km run (to the end of the road I live on and back), videoing the vacuum gauge, the oil pressure gauge, and the analog boost/intake manifold vacuum gauge on the dash. This was with the PCV valve output not connected to the intake manifold vacuum port. I drove at a variety of conditions, but in the spirit of Ken Miles, hard and tight.

3. I installed the SpeedMaster one way check valve on the line from the air oil separator fed by the PCV valve output, then connected it to the intake manifold vacuum port (pic 3).

4. I repeated the 43km run, monitoring the vacuum gauge.

5. I bought two bottles of LucasOil octane boost then added one bottle and 12.5 Gallons of 91 octane gasoline to the tank then drove home. This is twice the normal octane boost as each bottle normally treats up to 25 Gallons, and I have been putting in half a bottle per 12.5 Gallon fill up. Total drive distance 95km. 1805km remaining on this oil change.

OBSERVATIONS:

1. Power and performance were good. Started right up. Take off and acceleration to 5000rpm then successive gear changes was good.

2. At no point did the dipstick tube register the crankcase as under pressure. When the motor was in vacuum for a time, the crankcase came under vacuum, 1 to 4 inches Hg (pic 4). Response was not immediate, but quick enough that I was able to induce it.

3. I was able to induce oil smoke by engine deceleration with the clutch engaged, and then getting back on throttle. Oil smoke lasted approximately two seconds and ceased, at least as a visible plume. If I rolled in a clutch in coast then returned to throttle, no smoke. Otherwise, the exhaust was free of visible oil smoke while driving. There was a little oil smoke at idle when parked (pic 5). Not very visible in the pic but definitely there.

WAY AHEAD:

1. I will check the M/E Wagner PCV valve for cleanliness and function. It may be that it is contaminated with oil. The manual says to check it after each oil change.

2. I will adjust the flow rate upwards on the PCV Valve to maximum flow.

3. I will do a check ride with the dipstick in, driving hard and tight, to see what happens to it with the PCV valve loop connected to the intake manifold vacuum line with a one way check valve installed to prevent boost pressurization of the crankcase.

4. Standing by for advisement on leakdown test instructions for the 3S-GTE. Specifically wanting to be sure about the procedure for setting TDC. The rest I think I can handle.

EDIT: I think I have it. Got this from https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...vehicle-maintenance/how-to-do-a-leakdown-test

"Step 1: Remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine to put the cylinder to be tested at TDC. Tip: Insert a long screwdriver or extension into the spark plug hole and turn the engine by hand with a socket on the crankshaft. When the screwdriver stops rising or falling, you’re at TDC. Don’t turn the engine backward if TDC is missed. Go around again. In a four-cylinder engine, cylinders one and four and two and three are at TDC at the same time."