Hello everyone! I've run into an electrical problem and I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem

dimmy

New member
So I was driving to school about two months ago and my car suddenly died, I thought it may have jumped time so I replaced the belt, water pump, and tensioner, and the valve cover gaskets. I went to start it and it would turn over but not start. We were listening to see if the fuel pump went out and when cranking it would not come on but bridging B+ and FP on the diag box the pump would run. I then thought that the circuit opening relay was going bad because when we tested it the continuity was low so I replaced that and the problem still persists. Wondering if anyone has had this problem or any guidance.
 

U233

Member
Since you worked on the timing belt check your timing first. Get a timing light and confirm your work.

You have spark and fuel?
 

dimmy

New member
Since you worked on the timing belt check your timing first. Get a timing light and confirm your work.

You have spark and fuel?
I know 100% that my timing is good and we're pretty confident that we have spark (I will be checking that once I get this solved) and we know we're not getting fuel but that the pump is good. I also tested the wire from the pump to the circuit opening relay and that is good. There's either a problem from the circuit opening relay or in the ecu itself
 

dimmy

New member
That's what I'm working on currently, busy with college and work but I will let you know when I open it up along with a picture 👍
 

U233

Member
I know 100% that my timing is good and we're pretty confident that we have spark (I will be checking that once I get this solved) and we know we're not getting fuel but that the pump is good. I also tested the wire from the pump to the circuit opening relay and that is good. There's either a problem from the circuit opening relay or in the ecu itself
Ah I see. Guessing you have checked all the fuses as well for the system. The relays are pretty easy to test with a multimeter. Guessing you have the BGB for the test procedure if you did the timing belt.

If the capacitors were not a known issue ECUs are typically at the bottom of the troubleshooting list. Let us know what you find!
 

dimmy

New member
Well I got the ecu out and I'm not seeing anything visually wrong with it. On to testing wires now.
 

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Gert

Member
Does the car have the stock resistor packs? Fuel pump and injectors?
Did the car start when you bridged the fuel pump?

And why did you suspect the timing jumped? Timing does not jump out off the blue. Did the engine back fire? Belt broke? Too little information.
 

dimmy

New member
Does the car have the stock resistor packs? Fuel pump and injectors?
Did the car start when you bridged the fuel pump?

And why did you suspect the timing jumped? Timing does not jump out off the blue. Did the engine back fire? Belt broke? Too little information.
We suspected that the timing jumped because a few nights before we THOUGHT it had jumped it backfired once and we didn't know when the timing belt was replaced last. We inspected it and it looked a little old but no obvious defects so we didn't replace it at the time. However when we took everything off to look and see if it was timing that jumped the belt was fairly loose and the tensioner was not extending anymore. I went and replaced the belt, tensioner, and water pump. I'll have to look and see if it has the stock resistor pack but I'm fairly certain that it does, I know it's the stock fuel pump and stock injectors. We didn't try to fully start the car with the bridged fuel pump, however we can hear the fuel pump pumping when it is bridged and without it bridged it doesn't pump.
 

Gert

Member
Suppose you have the stock ECU, so you have the resistor packs.
Lookes like this:

If you bridge the fuel pump, you bypass the fuel pump resistor. If she starts, then you have an spark. If not = no spark.

I do not know how the test the car without the resistor pack for the injectors.
You can check it by measuring resistance between the terminals.
It must be 4 - 6 Ohm.
Measure between the top middle terminal ( +B ) and the other four.
Or find yourself an working resistorpack.

BTW, never heard of an jumped beld in our cars, but that is maybe me?
I did hear about broken belts.
 
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