Minor disaster strikes Night Fury!

Luvmyalltrac

Active member
Greetings to all.
Well, I am posting today about some poor luck that I have had with ole Night Fury. I have had to have her towed twice now, since she arrived in Texas. The first time was due to a flat tire. It was preventable and my my own damn fault. I had drove her to work on April 27th. On the ride home, I noticed something was off about how she was handeling, but failed to check it out when I got home. Next day, Friday April 28th I took Fury to go to work again, having forgot about the issue. I soon noticed the problem again, but instead of stopping, I kept going, not wanting to be late for work. I got 18miles into my 20 mile commute, when I might have been using some excessive acceleration to put another commuter in his place🙄. I did indeed get out in front of him. Briefly. After the next stop sign, my driver‘s rear tire blew out and he sailed by in the other lane, as I was forced to slow down and pull over into a parking lot😖. Totally self-inflicted. Now I had to call in to get a ride, and was forced to just lock Fury up and leave her there while I did my work-day. Fortunately, it was an area that I felt ok about leaving her for the day. Once done with work, I called my insurance agent. Fortunately, I had roadside assistance coverage and a flatbed towtruck was dispatched. I waited over two hours at my car for the driver to make his way from the other side of the city during afternoon rush hour. A line of severe Thunderstorms came through before he finally showed up. 32039821-CF95-4200-A76C-7073362D7F66.jpeg2AFA2109-CDAD-40F4-AA38-F83500E593B2.jpeg1F53F0E9-46C0-4C0D-8E64-51A16EA65A00.jpeg
Desite how it looks in the photo, the rim was not damaged at all! The car did not come with a spare at all, when I got it, thus the necessity of the tow. Had Fury towed home and ordered another Michelin Pilot sport. When I removed the wheel to get the new tire mounted, I found a screw that had punctured it and caused a leak. The low pressure and aggressive driving caused the poor handling and blowout. Lesson learned; “ pay attention and check it out, when your Dragon(Celica) Is trying to tell you something is not right”.
Fast forward to July 1st. Fury had been sitting undriven for a couple weeks due to working nights at a location that I refused to subject her to. The big red Dragon was my transport for that gig. FBF0F884-9AD7-469F-9CA6-F0069C8AD9DB.jpeg
Anyway, it was a Saturday afternoon. I had to give my girlfriend a ride to pick her Forester that she had loaned to a friend who was temporarily carless. I decided this was a great opportunity to take Fury out for short ride to get some exercise. On the way to the friend’s place, I had to turn left to cross a highway with oncoming traffic onto the residential street. I was rolling in the center(multi-purpose turn) lane and down-shifted and punched the pedal to get across quickly. The street I was turning onto was slightly steep uphill for me. Fury bucked and stalled, but I was able to coast across and partway up the steep hill to clear the intersection. The fool driving the BMW behind me tried to follow right on my heels and Barely cleared it, but was right on my ass and started hitting his horn, since I had stopped only partway up the hill. I waved the dumbass to go around me and tried to restart Fury. No start, no crank. I have had an intermittent problem with this result previously when she had been driven, shut off, then restart tried shortly afterward. So, I pulled the ebrake and the two of us managed to push Fury up the short bit of uphill to the top which was followed by a decent little downhill. I got her rolling downhill and attempted to pop the clutch to start her in 3rd gear( this had previously worked in the no crank situation). No luck this time. I rolled over to a nice shady spot off the road and then tried the starter again. This time she cranked, but it sounded strange and no start. I did‘nt try anything further, just called for the tow truck again🙁. My girlfriend walked the rest of the way to get her Subaru(about a mile) while I stayed with my dog Frehley and Fury. The tow truck was going to be about 45 minutes, so she picked us up and we went home. I returned to wait for the tow in my 1st Gen 4Runner.7B2DE6EF-5B3E-4673-9EFF-6F1D77D04EE4.jpeg
Have I ever mentioned that I have several Toyotas?!? Anyway, the driver was on time and did his job well.
12A44490-5F21-4B9E-8AEC-3BACBDDF62A0.jpeg
I had called my mechanic friend Noah( see my post about AC system overhaul) and he told me to just get Fury towed straight to his shop. So I convinced the driver to change the destination, to which he readily agreed ( earned himself a nice tip) since it was about the same distance as my home. A week passed before I was able to meet with Noah to help roll Fury into a bay and investigate what had happened. I had my suspicions, which proved to be well founded. Fury’s timing belt had disintegrate, and it actually bunched up around the crankshaft pulley and blew out the bottom of the lower timing belt cover. Realizing that her 3SGTE powerplant is a non-interference engine, was a relief. But upon consulting this excellent forum, also realized that the timing belt replacement job is a PITA. Noah had also suspected the timing belt was gone, based on my description of the events, and done some research. He found a timing belt kit with everything needed for a gen 4-5 Caldina motor from Prime MR2! Having read a post or two that mentioned Prime MR2/Prime GT4 before, I promptly when to the site to order. To my great relief, they also hod the lower timing cover that I needed! Order was placed and parts along with a bunch of Prime swag received within a week.
I ordered the two other drive belts, Alt/AC and PS from another source and now all that I need is the time to do the job. I have been working 60-70 hours a week, with only Sundays off since before this all happened.

I am fortunate to have an agreement with Noah that allows me to have use of a bay in his shop (when one is open) and his supervision and advice on projects( such as the aforementioned AC System Ovehaul). The beauty of this is that I get all that at a much lower rate than if I have him do the work, plus the bonus of doing the work myself and learning about my vehicles without making costly mistakes. The tradeoff being, I get my hands/clothes dirty, injure myself, break bolts off, have to remove the broken off bolts, and other frustrations. In my opinion it is well worth it. I really enjoy working on my machines and other than my friend, don’t really trust most places that you gotta take your car to for repairs. Exceptions being, highly specialized and recommended places by someone I know. So right now, Fury is sitting under a car cover at Noah’s shop awaiting me to get started on the project. If anyone who has done the timing belt thing with the engine in the car has some tips or advice, please share!
Oh,also, I am considering installing a new starter while I am at it. Any recommendations regarding that and a source for a quality starter? Gonna check Rockauto for a Denso I guess.
Wish me good luck, make fun of my misfortune, share a photos of your All-Trac or other Toyota, or make your own post, just participate in this forum!!!!!
 

Luvmyalltrac

Active member
Here is the sight that greeted me when I removed Fury’s upper timing cover34931E73-AA9D-4510-A43E-D10C84417FCE.jpeg
Where the hell is the belt???
AB5FFCA7-DBB8-420B-AAD2-3A73A2F90114.jpeg
Here you can see the end of it hanging down in front of the axel boot. Most of what was left is wrapped up around the crank pulley and it destroyed the lower cover. More photos and info when I am able to return to the project.
 

Tippo

Well-known member
Well on the positive note we have non-interference motors so shouldn't be too bad. Finding the timing cover on that version motor will be the most difficult part, but again, nothing too bad.
 

Luvmyalltrac

Active member
Well on the positive note we have non-interference motors so shouldn't be too bad. Finding the timing cover on that version motor will be the most difficult part, but again, nothing too bad.
Turns out that Prime Mr2 had the cover in stock. Got it in the same order as the timing belt kit. Everything was a brand new genuine toyota part, including the cover!.
I went to visit Fury today when I got home from work. Put the box of parts in the hatch. Hoping I can get out of work that is scheduled for Saturday. Noah has informed me that he is available to help and that a shop bay will be open! One disturbing thing happened while I had the hood up. I opened the small relay box that is on the right side near the radiator. Fuel pump and fan relays are in it. Instead of a fuel pump relay I found this burned up looking jumper wire. I will post the photo in a few minutes, it is on my phone and I”m using the tablet right now. Questions; is this something that was done to accommodate the engine swap? Isn’t there a better way to do it? There certainly must be! This wire has got very hot for it to be in this condition! Thoughts, ideas?? Anyone?!
photo to follow shortly.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Putting in a jumper to disable the fuel pump resistor is pretty common, there's a OEM jumper from certain FWD models that you can use for the "proper" way but what you have shouldn't have gotten that toasty unless it was done incorrectly.
 

Tippo

Well-known member
Putting in a jumper to disable the fuel pump resistor is pretty common, there's a OEM jumper from certain FWD models that you can use for the "proper" way but what you have shouldn't have gotten that toasty unless it was done incorrectly.
Bingo, that's a normal thing to see. I'd get that done correctly, but it's nothing new here lol. Also, happy to hear that prime has them in stock. ATS and TCS may have them as well.
 

Luvmyalltrac

Active member
Putting in a jumper to disable the fuel pump resistor is pretty common, there's a OEM jumper from certain FWD models that you can use for the "proper" way but what you have shouldn't have gotten that toasty unless it was done incorrectly.
Thanks for your response. I suspected it was common, but, did not like what I saw!
 

Luvmyalltrac

Active member
Bingo, that's a normal thing to see. I'd get that done correctly, but it's nothing new here lol. Also, happy to hear that prime has them in stock. ATS and TCS may have them as well.
Thanks, Tippo. It will be addressed when I begin timing belt job. Also have new clutch master and slave cylinders to install. Got them previously when I noticed old looking and low fluid in the the reservoir. Minor leak in master. Seems like a good time to get all these details handled. I’m off tomorrow for some brief Doctor visits, so I may be able to get started on some of it then.
 

simple

Active member
interested to hear your experience with clutch master cylinder replacement. I wasn't able to get the fluid sufficiently through the system when we just pumped the clutch pedal and used a manual vacuum pump. My next attempt I want to use an electric pump but I don't have one and don't want to buy one as they are pretty expensive.
 

Luvmyalltrac

Active member
interested to hear your experience with clutch master cylinder replacement. I wasn't able to get the fluid sufficiently through the system when we just pumped the clutch pedal and used a manual vacuum pump. My next attempt I want to use an electric pump but I don't have one and don't want to buy one as they are pretty expensive.
Just what I need, another challenging project.🙄 Thank you for sharing what happened to you, that way I can be prepared for a similar situation. 👍
 

simple

Active member
After I wrote that I did a little more digging. I got this small pneumatic pump from Amazon for around $50. I will probably use it more than the old Mityvac hand pump I have.

FOUR UNCLES 2L Vacuum Brake Bleeder Air Brake Bleeder Kit with 2L Brake Fluid Extractor and 1L Refilling Bottle​

 

Luvmyalltrac

Active member
So, here is a quick update. I completed the timing belt work and reassembled Fury Weeks ago. Crank, no start. Verified compression, decent on all. scratched head, then did leak-down test. #3 cylinder failed. Likely bent valves. Then my job took over my life for several weeks. I could do nothing but be aggravated that, my still new to me, car was down with a serious problem. Fixable, but expensive and avoidable. Lesson learned: don‘t take anyone’s word on the condition of a timing belt! Over Labor Day weekend, I disassembled to double check that the timing was still correct. Then began the steps involved in removing the head so it can go to the machine shop for assessment. I got as far as ready to unbolt the head before lack of the proper tool stopped me. Ordered triplesquare set from Amazon, got it yesterday. With the turbo charger and exhaust manifold off. It was very easy to replace my starter and clutch slave cylinder. Did that yesterday afternoon. Will be pulling the head and taking to the machine shop next. More updates after the head is assessed. Thanks for reading, wish me luck!
 

Luvmyalltrac

Active member
I appreciate any advice, based on your‘s knowledge or prior experience, of other wise things to check or replace while Fury is in this partially disassembled state. I am really hoping to get her fixed up and then be able to enjoy some driving time that is uninterrupted by things breaking or the need for a tow!😖
 

grip-addict

Active member
Woof, I am so sorry to hear that's the head has to come out. Since you're doing all the hard work here, you should consider a mls metal head gasket and some arp head studs in case you want to turn the boost up later.
Popular jobs to do at this stage are the hose from hell (and hose from hell on earth), Cam seals (which you already should have covered) and anything you want to get at on the back of the engine (there's a rubber bypass hose there that I prefer to change when convenient).
I hope the machine work isn't too hard on the wallet.
 

Luvmyalltrac

Active member
Woof, I am so sorry to hear that's the head has to come out. Since you're doing all the hard work here, you should consider a mls metal head gasket and some arp head studs in case you want to turn the boost up later.
Popular jobs to do at this stage are the hose from hell (and hose from hell on earth), Cam seals (which you already should have covered) and anything you want to get at on the back of the engine (there's a rubber bypass hose there that I prefer to change when convenient).
I hope the machine work isn't too hard on the wallet.
Thanks Grip,
That is solid advice on the hoses. I know that I had to cut one to get it off, it had just got so hardened up, wasn‘t worth trying to save. Already has the ARP studs, I think. Job got me busy again, so I have not yet been able to use my new tools to actually unbolt and remove the head. Probably this weekend, unless I can get out early enough today.
 

Tippo

Well-known member
So, here is a quick update. I completed the timing belt work and reassembled Fury Weeks ago. Crank, no start. Verified compression, decent on all. scratched head, then did leak-down test. #3 cylinder failed. Likely bent valves. Then my job took over my life for several weeks. I could do nothing but be aggravated that, my still new to me, car was down with a serious problem. Fixable, but expensive and avoidable. Lesson learned: don‘t take anyone’s word on the condition of a timing belt! Over Labor Day weekend, I disassembled to double check that the timing was still correct. Then began the steps involved in removing the head so it can go to the machine shop for assessment. I got as far as ready to unbolt the head before lack of the proper tool stopped me. Ordered triplesquare set from Amazon, got it yesterday. With the turbo charger and exhaust manifold off. It was very easy to replace my starter and clutch slave cylinder. Did that yesterday afternoon. Will be pulling the head and taking to the machine shop next. More updates after the head is assessed. Thanks for reading, wish me luck!
Man what bad luck! Regardless of the TB, the valves should NOT have bent. Maybe there were other underlying issues? Either way, while everything is out, load up on all the goodies. Like grip-addict was saying, pop in new gen4 parts and maybe some upgrades. The positive note gen4 have VERY strong head gaskets but definitely replace it. ARP head studs are definitely recommended as well. The gen4 tends to float under higher boost (ask me how i know) so keep that in mind. Being high compression and smaller rods, it also has a high probability to spaghetti noodle the rods. Either way, here are some good websites to check in with gen 4 parts that I've purchased items from in the past:

TCS: https://www.tcsmotorsports.com/collections/gen4-gen5-3sgte-swap-parts

TwosRUs: http://twosrus.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_161

ATS: http://www.atsracing.net/

and of course Prime https://primemr2.com/collections/gen4-3sgte-parts

Might as well load up on the goodies while she's under the knife. We've all been here - hopefully from here it's good luck my friend!
 

Luvmyalltrac

Active member
Man what bad luck! Regardless of the TB, the valves should NOT have bent. Maybe there were other underlying issues? Either way, while everything is out, load up on all the goodies. Like grip-addict was saying, pop in new gen4 parts and maybe some upgrades. The positive note gen4 have VERY strong head gaskets but definitely replace it. ARP head studs are definitely recommended as well. The gen4 tends to float under higher boost (ask me how i know) so keep that in mind. Being high compression and smaller rods, it also has a high probability to spaghetti noodle the rods. Either way, here are some good websites to check in with gen 4 parts that I've purchased items from in the past:

TCS: https://www.tcsmotorsports.com/collections/gen4-gen5-3sgte-swap-parts

TwosRUs: http://twosrus.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_161

ATS: http://www.atsracing.net/

and of course Prime https://primemr2.com/collections/gen4-3sgte-parts

Might as well load up on the goodies while she's under the knife. We've all been here - hopefully from here it's good luck my friend!
Thanks Tippo, I appreciate your advice and best wishes!
 
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