Reconsiderations and Options with car (Front Control arm busted and possible frame damage)

Monachopsis

Member
So long story short my car had gotten hit again. After it I ended in the curb and as of now what we know is front drivers control arm is gone. Toasted. (there could be more and at this point I expect more broken things) This is was 6 days after the time the other driver took my fender so and this point im deflated. Its hard to keep trying to solve this cars problems when it feels cursed. I guess I just need some input

1. get the car fixed sell it. Simple as that. (Unlikely but it's an option)
2.Fix the car and keep it hope it isnt cursed or something
-If i go this route I have 2 options :https://gt4-play.co.uk/shop/front-wishbones-celica-st18
Reason being I plan to track this car and having fully adjustable lowers is super nice but also I guess since the OEM unit had let me down I would like to not put them back in if that makes sense...just lost on what to do to begin with i guess
3.part it out here...

my dad is really leaning into me selling and buying like an m3 or something like that and well, at this rate it just (as dumb as this sounds) seems easier to deal with a BMW.

I a broke mechanical engineering student and well this is stressing me out not to mention my school and other things are just piling on, but also I worked for 3 years for this and then waited 5 months for it to arrive so i guess it just feels like im burning all that work away.

TLDR What do...
 
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Paulytunes

New member
Sorry to hear about your string of bad luck. I can sort of relate to your situation. Back in the mid 90's, I had a 1976 Monte Carlo in my last year in high school then when I started college. The engine threw a rod in my second semester. It really sucks being a poor college student (an ME as well) and not having the money to fix your classic car. Long story short, I ended up having to get rid of the Monte. It sucked and was painful. I had to resort to driving a few GM clunkers that I could afford in the time being, until I made enough to get a more reliable vehicle, which ended up being a 1986 Toyota Camry.

My advice would be to focus on school for the time being and focus on getting the best possible grades you can - it will pay off when you get a good engineering job. Then when you do have money and time, you can refocus your attention on the Celica or whatever your interests are at that point. In my case, I flirted with a used All-trac at one point towards the end of my college career, but then a few years later ended up getting one of the first USDM WRXs, and well, I've had three of them, including my current daily. The Japanese sports car bug bit me hard and hasn't let go.

However, I'm not sure a BMW is the answer at this point. German Engineering can be good, but tends to be overly complicated, requires special tools to perform maintenance and repairs, and can get expensive quickly.
 

Monachopsis

Member
However, I'm not sure a BMW is the answer at this point. German Engineering can be good, but tends to be overly complicated, requires special tools to perform maintenance and repairs, and can get expensive quickly.
A M3 isn't the only option just I guess looking for a do or die answer which you gave. Yea as of now thats my goal, study and get out, and I guess I'm leaning more of just keeping it... I'll have a priest look at it once I get it back and I think if it happens a third time I'll look at maybe selling it, but also I don't want to deal with a third time. Thankfully I don't have to find something to drive, I have my old TC thats been a unit so I can just let it sit. Really what Im prying for on selling part is to see if other owners 1. delt with this and 2. if they would recommend cutting losses now

Either way thank you talking with you here and on the other page is lovely and its nice to know that my case isn't a 'me' thing.
 

Monachopsis

Member
Yea yea I get it 'BMW bad' lol. Like I said my dad is just breathing down my neck about how much this car is running me and is comparing it to a BMW. Is it usually bad with yearly costs? Im getting mixed signals at this point. I did all the engine maintenance stuff (timing fluids etc) and well I am still buttoning up other parts like the radiator. Once it's good is that it? (<----Main reason for possible sale it seems every time I fix 1 thing another breaks)

Heres the current damage, I dropped it off with my mechanic friend to take a deeper look but this is what I have.
20240210_124438.jpg20240214_163341.jpg20240210_124424.jpg20240210_124431.jpg
So in the first image (hard to see) the wheel sits about 1.5" closer to the rear side of the fender (towards the doors). Image 2 is the image of me seeing the control arm is probably gone and the other 2 are alignment. The other side appears to be alight. The rear took a much smaller hit, not of much concern as of yet.

I'm just gonna get the new set from gt4play
 
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underscore

Well-known member
since the OEM unit had let me down I would like to not put them back in if that makes sense...just lost on what to do to begin with i guess

I'd actually stick with the OEM arms because that one bent. The energy from the impact has to go somewhere, better to have it bend an easily replaceable control arm than bend the frame where the arm mounts. That's my thinking anyways.
 

Monachopsis

Member
I'd actually stick with the OEM arms because that one bent. The energy from the impact has to go somewhere, better to have it bend an easily replaceable control arm than bend the frame where the arm mounts. That's my thinking anyways.
Yep just ordered them off of gt4play, brand new with poly bushings. Good point, I was thinking with a rigid enough part it will just tank it but yea if the frame is weaker it will take it instead. If I want later down the line (if there is no frame damage) I'll make the heimed version I want. I also thought the extra cash I would spend 1 wouldn't be noticed with out better tires and as such I shouldn't buy them unless I want to buy better rims and tires (which I'll still do just later) 🤷‍♂️ dumb way of rationalizing it but hey saves me money I guess.
From the looks I took, and the tie rods being fine I'm just hoping that the frame is fine.
 

Roreri

Active member
This kinda thing ain’t the end of the world. Those components are meant to take the damage.

I’d source some luck or skill though. If you find where to get some let me know. ; )
 

Monachopsis

Member
I’d source some luck or skill though. If you find where to get some let me know. ; )
Keep you posted, might even be local so that would be nice :), Tony (my mechanic) is ducking his head under today to let me know so hopefully just no frame damage.
 

Monachopsis

Member
Tony at Legend Motor Works?
No but I'll note that. He used to own Saigon auto in downtown but now just has a warehouse in his backyard with all the tools you could imagine. Man is a wizard with cars, did an engine swap and then put a turbo on in 3 days
 

Monachopsis

Member
I heard about this guy. I’ll want to meet him.
Really? Didn't know he was this popular 😂. Viet dude right, or you thinking of someone else? Maybe at some point I can arrange something, he wants to cruise around with me at some point with his 700hp altezza so that could be a fun day to just play around with some buddies on some good roads.

Anyways he did get back to me, control arm, grade a dead, but everything else front to rear appears OK. He said  maybe a new knuckle but unlikely.

I trashing those tires once I get it back, no grip when I really needed it. Just gonna go with some summers or sport all seasons until I upgrade wheels and tire to 17". No more of this wanna be snow tires, buying studs next year.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Something I remembered, check or replace the wheel bearing while you have it all apart. When I crashed my GT-S on the same corner the wheel bearing went out shortly after, I didn't change it quick enough and it wrecked the hub, I replaced the bearing and hub again but it still felt off when I pulled it apart again a few years later and spun it by hand. I think my hit was slightly harder though, the control arm was bent more and it broke the rim too.
 

Roreri

Active member
Really? Didn't know he was this popular 😂. Viet dude right, or you thinking of someone else? Maybe at some point I can arrange something, he wants to cruise around with me at some point with his 700hp altezza so that could be a fun day to just play around with some buddies on some good roads.

Anyways he did get back to me, control arm, grade a dead, but everything else front to rear appears OK. He said  maybe a new knuckle but unlikely.

I trashing those tires once I get it back, no grip when I really needed it. Just gonna go with some summers or sport all seasons until I upgrade wheels and tire to 17". No more of this wanna be snow tires, buying studs next year.
I am not entirely sure whether he is the guy but when I took the MR2 down to a Toyota Specialist they straight refused to work on my modified car. Which means they are useless for my GT-Four as well. But they recommended a guy who sounds a lot like your guy. So I’d like to meet him. I have an easy job I’d like to throw at him as a get to know you—a Mishimoto radiator for my GT-Four once I get it back from TCS Motorsports.

I’d be down for a cruise with him if we vibe. That 700hp Altezza sounds pretty insane.

You’re on track with good all seasons. Do it. I have Vredestein Quatracs on my GT-Four. I have Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4s on my MR2. With the weather and road dust we have here in Colorado you can’t be fucking around with high performance summers. I had a terrifying experience one evening driving home from Denver. Falken Azenis, which is what the previous owner shod my MR2 with. Great for clear weather days in Florida. Or a dry clean track. Not great for variable weather Colorado. Fucking SHEETS of rain, unable to drive faster than 50mph in the right lane with hazards on, motherfuckers blasting by me at twenty miles an hour faster than me, and the front end wanting to come loose the moment I got above 50mph.

For winters, I don’t think studs are really necessary maybe just moderate your driving and get some relatively tall and narrow Blizzaks or comparable. There’s just so few days where studs would be called for in Colorado, but in the end your call. If you don’t have control over whether you’re going to be out in the AllTrac and you see yourself being accident prone I can’t blame you.

It seems like maybe you need a defensive driving course. Something about maintaining your bubble. Best Army training I ever had was the week long Staff Driver Antiterrorism Evasive Driving Course. First day I threw up four times. But I am like Jason Statham now. At least until I forget it all in the passage of years. Or find a track where you can get out of control in a safe environment. Hope this all doesn’t seem patronizing just sharing some thoughts for your consideration.

Good news on the suspension. Amateurs bitch about how heavy the AllTracs are, and sure, compared to some other chassis out there it’s got cankles. But it’s beefy as fuck—that rally heritage. I second Underscore’s suggestion to get other associated work done while he’s in there if you can afford it.

That’s about it. Best of luck!
 

Monachopsis

Member
I don't feel patronized at all, all advice is welcome. A course could help but all these events happened just as you were describing your falken tire incident. I was doing my thing and well someone somehow didn't like that and well....anyways it's getting fixed once gt4play finally decides to talk to me and ship my parts. As for a course, I went up to Georgetown for ice racing this year as you saw and that helped but I'm planning on spending a good part of the warm months at ppir for autox and track so I a controlled environment. Once I have the money aside and time I'll also sit down for one of those evasion courses, always wanted to do them.

As for tires because you would know, I don't really want to dish out the price for the oz rims right now so I was gonna buy some continental extreme contact sports for my general tire(16 inch factory enkeis, 205/55), but had plans to go to some track style Yokohamas when I get the OZ rims, is that just not worth it? Should I also roll with a 'sport' all season?

Anyways I'm still waiting on gt4play to send me the arms and they won't respond to me anymore after they told me that they're waiting on polybushings. I was asking if I could just pay for the whitelines that they have in-stock and ship me those with the arms naked but here we are. Keep me posted with yours roreri, would love to cruise around sometime and if he's up for introduce you to Tony. He been nothing but a pleasure and has made my gt4 what it is.IMG_4583.jpg
Photo from him about my fender.

Edit: Tony no longer owns Saigon, but does stuff from a shop he built in his backyard. He told me he likes to restrict his customer base as well as like only dealing in oem, but they're have been exceptions so I'll talk to him and see if he's game. I was one of those exceptions.
 
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underscore

Well-known member
Tires are a tricky thing sometimes. Long story short I went from my really grippy 245 wide Kuhmo SPT summers to the Pirelli all seasons from my wifes old Matrix and the grip was terrible. The slightest bit of wetness on the road and the back end would swing out far too easily. Then I tossed on some random used Yokohama all seasons just to be able to drive a bit in the summer (in the same size as the Pirellis) and they grip great. So definitely research them before you buy anything.

Similar deal with winters. And imo high-end winters > low-end winters with studs. I've unknowingly bought crappy winters before and they were about as useless as all-seasons on ice.

For the control arms it sounds like they're just using the trick of 1st gen Rav4 arms with Celica bushings put in to make them fit our cars. You can probably do the same thing yourself and save on some time and shipping cost.
 

Monachopsis

Member
For the control arms it sounds like they're just using the trick of 1st gen Rav4 arms with Celica bushings put in to make them fit our cars. You can probably do the same thing yourself and save on some time and shipping cost.
Good info on tires! Yea the contentials I'm looking at are the go to for sometimes tracked daily drivers that I have seen be raced on and dealing with wet. They're more dry oriented but people say they rip in the wet and can manage the ice if driven right.

The Goodyear I had were just short of being trash. Loud, borderline useless when grip was lost, and too big. Yokohamas and falkens are my go to but I just wanted the car on road when I got them and people had said they were great so I trusted it and thought I was the issue (which still could be the case)

Also I didn't know this trick! I know we have a bit of a parts bin special on our cars but I need to look deeper into that. I have the control arms ordered already but I'll see what my local dealership has for rav 4 arms and I might ask to cancel. Good call thank you.
 

underscore

Well-known member
I can't remember if the info is on here or not but I've seen a few people do it now, 1st gen Rav4 arms with aftermarket Celica bushings pressed in. I'm not sure what's different about the Rav4 bushing, I assume a different sized sleeve.

According to my notes the part numbers should be 48068-42012 / 48069-42012.
 

Roreri

Active member
On my MR2 I went 245s on the back and 205s on the front. And yeah that ass does come loose, but that’s easier to deal with than the front coming loose. 215s all around for the GT-Four. For actual snow tires for the GT-Four I intend to go 205s. Narrow tires are better for rain and snow. Wide tires act like water skis or snowshoes—they encourage floating on the surface which is the opposite of desirable. You want a narrow tire so it pushes through the medium to the asphalt. More patronizing maybe but folks love wide tires.
 
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