T-vis gone bad, engine damaged


Active member
Awesome! Glad you stuck with it—seems like it was an ordeal. I hope the sender wakes up or the fuel float figures itself out.


Always something. Alternator broke, again... *sigh.*
Every two or three years, an alt dies.... :shoots:


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I bet having a nice fresh tank feels fantastic.....

Are you running the belt too tight? Or heavy electrical loads?

Roreri":4jftsljw said:
Replacing a part prone to corrosion with stainless steel is king.

Have to be careful, that can cause galvanic corrosion. Stainless steel isn't automatically the best material.


Active member
Damn man. There isn’t a way out is there? But yeah. Not matching metals is no bueno too. Didn’t consider that.

Complete conversion to stainless! :p


The alternator is burned. It is an 70A version, which is probably to low. I know there is an 80A out there, but over here I cannot find one.
Scored an used ST205 70A alternator and that one is going in.

I have an old MR2 alternator laying around, but I that one is really big and is impossible to install. Bracket is no good and all wiring too short.

Does any one know if the 80A Celica versions fits in the 70A bracket?
I am on Rockauto right now and the 70amp and the 80amp versions appear identical according to the pictures for the BBB Industries remanufactured alternators. Hopefully someone will chime in to confirm fitment.


Active member
A lot of Toyotas from then had similar physically shaped alternators. The big difference was the shape and position of the plug. And for us the lack of ability to attach the cooling elbow.

One from a 5SFE (Or 3SF [or G]E for you) should fit fine. Autos had higher output ones I believe.

Toyota lists different part numbers for the ST185 pre and post revision alternators (at least they used to) only because the short wiring harness that came with the alt was different between the 2. But all you need to do is swap the harness and you're fine. For example. So you should have a pretty good chance of getting one that will bolt in.


Received an 80 Amp alternator yesterday. Got it from Ebay, not too expensive and brand new. The endcap does say ND too ??


Found it with the 27060-74300 part number from Toyota.

No time to install yet, but first impression is good. The heatshield/cap is an direct fit and for the rest the alternator looks the same, not (much) bigger anyway.

Pleasant surprise since the alternator rebuild shop told me he could not get 80 Amp Celica alternators anymore.

Let you know if she fits, yes or no.


Well, two things.
First, the alternator sold to me by the junkyard was not an ST205 unit, but an ST185 one.
Ofcourse, I cannot tell if it came off an ST205, because the previous owner could have add an ST185 on to his 205, dunno.
The number on the alternator says: 27060-74130, what is an 70 Amp piece coming from an ST185. No big deal, the alternator did work.

Second: the new unit, from Ebay, is an direct fit. She is on the car now.


297.000 kms, still going strong :)



Active member
This bodes well for my Lorelei once I get her fueling issues sorted. Another 200,000km-plus of enjoyment would be perfect.


Not much to add now. Just drive around.

A picture last week on an litte ferrie:


And hit 298.000 kms :)


Begin next year she is going to visit the painter due to some rust at the left front fender and bad (original) red paint at the rear hatch. Sunshine in 30 years is taking its credits. :shrug:


Sigh, so now the tacho quit working too. Time for the capacitor swap.

The valve from the ERL waterinjection is leaking too. Struggeling to get the correct seal.
It's always the little things. Your car looks beautiful though. Do you still like the water injection system? I'm curious as to your opinion after living with it for a while.


The ERL system is in my car for about 25 years now and is pretty foolproof.
Once I did not use distilled water what blocked my 0,3 mm jet.
But the jet can be disassembled and cleaned.
Once the watertank emptied herself due to an hose connector leaking at the lowest point, easy fix.
And now the water valve is leaking at the seals. Found an company who can deliver small seals.
It is an special seal in the size 10,44 x 1 mm. But it is not an o-seal but square.
Square seals this small, I could not find them. So I try the round stock seal.

Tried ERL, but they don't carry this kind of valves anymore and I must buy an new system :crazy:
The backup from ERL isn't what it was in earlier days. The ERL forum is used once or twice a year too, no help from there either.

Because I wanted to keep the stock look off the GT4, I could not install an front mount, so I decided to keep the stock intercooler and add an water injection.
It cools, keeps temps down and helps against detonation.
Like I said, it is in my car for a very long time now and working fine. The engine is still healthy too and I don't spare her. Hit 7.500 rpm regurlaly and hit 240 km/h last week in Germany. I did not have the room to drive faster but once I pushed her out off the the speedo. :D


*Sigh* replacing the capacitors did not help at all. I was a little afraid off that because my tacho is complete dead and what I read here is that the tacho is not showing the correct rpm.

Any ideas?
I had to replace the caps in my tach, but the behavior was that the needle would dance around a bit and be somewhere in the vicinity of what the actual rpm was. eg if i was cruising at 3k rpm, the needle would bounce between 2 and 4k. It was always doing something, though and was never dead flat. If yours isn't moving whatsoever, it could just be a bad connection. Can you try getting a voltage reading from the tach-out wire from the ecu ?


grip-addict":1pznk761 said:
Can you try getting a voltage reading from the tach-out wire from the ecu ?
Reading the wires is not a problem, but is the tacho getting an voltage or an signal? If I read correct, the tacho is receiving an inductive signal, direct from the distributor.
I don't know it that is detectable with an multimeter, I suppose I must use an oscilloscope.


Well, how simple can it be...

Tacho dead = probably capacitors.
Removed the cluster, swapped capacitors and noted that the tacho still did not work.
Looked at the internet: perhaps stepper in gauge died, maybe.
So, checked for an replacement tacho. But it must be an 9.000 rpm tacho with 'economy' leds.
Most tacho's over here are 8.000 rpm tacho's.
Finally found one, coming from an ST182, I suppose, it is having an volt gauge. Swapped tacho's, still dead.
Hmm, both broken???
Seller shipped two clusters, one with 9.000 and one with 8.000 tacho.
Swapped with the 8.000 rpm tacho, also dead.... huh??

Okay, took the multi-meter, checked continuity from igniter to tacho connector: no signal!!
Followed wiring and somewhere near the Autronic ECU, there was an 1K ohm resistor that was going to maximum resistor!!! Bummer.
Cut the resistor, connected wires and ready. Man o man, that was my price for taking the lazy route instead off checking wires with the multi-meter. *sigh* always I check wiring with multi-meter, but once...... :crazy:

Anyway, let's take it to the positive side: my tacho is already having fresh capacitors now :D

BTW, the resistor was there, since back in the days off installing this Autronic in 2000, they told me to add an 1 K resistor to the tacho signal, no idea why? The stock tacho is already having an 43K ohm resistor added, so no need for this one.