Fixing the ERL leaking.
About 10 kms from my place there is an rubber company who is selling real small O - ring seals.
The old leaking seal was 10,44 mm, internal and 1 mm thick. I could order different sizes and took the 10,3 mm - 1 mm seal.
Yesterday evening I installed the bits and pressurized (approx 10 bar!) the system. This morning there still was 10 bar, so this problem is solved too.
Tacho is working, ERL too. Next week to the painter for some paint refurbisment.
Only thing left is the cold air entering in the cabin at high vehicle speeds. But that will wait till after the paint job.
Re-installed the ERL parts, took the car for a test drive and find out that it is working great again.
Also, I found out that suddenly the engine is idling at around 2.000 rpm???? Huh, where did that come from??
Last weekend all was good!
Realizing that I did not touch any hose or what ever to create an vacuumleak I suspected the TPS.
So, I connected the laptop to the car and I noticed that the Throttle Position Sender was showing an opening from 1,8%, but the throttle was 100 % closed. Hmmm, not good. Ecu probably thinking the throttle is openend and messing around with fuel and ignition.
Anyway recalibrating the TPS with the Autronic is super easy: disconnect the TPS, reconnect, hit full throttle for about five seconds and ready :smokes:
Took out the fanhousing this weekend. This because I was still struggeling with cold air entering the cabin somewhere around this housing.
Removing is an challenge because the most top bolt is behind the dash and an heating vent pipe. Anyway, after some nasty words and lots of sweat, I managed to remove this housing.
There are two large outlets, what are opened as soon as you choose to close the outside incoming air. The fabric what is sitting on this doors is gone after 30 years. Hmmm, can happen. But, since I have never used this function in the 28 years I own the car, I decided to block this vents permanent. If I am going to regret this, I can always remove the housing again and make some doors that seal good. For now I am going to test this.
Installed the housing this evening, PITA too, of course.
Anyway, some pictures from the housing before I blocked the vents. The big one is attachable from the passenger seat. But the other vent is facing the firewall and is impossible to block without removing the housing.
FSE Race Verstelbare brandstofdrukregelaar AIR007 / AIR008FSE RACE Verstelbare Brandstof Druk Regelaar voor brandstofinjectie voertuigen. Helpt bij constante druk van de brandstof bij het uitvoeren van een hogere boost en brandstofrail druk te handhaven.
Ripped her from the car and suprisingly there is an rebuild kit available.
Took two weeks and installed the kit this evening.
Fuel leaking is gone, but what I was afraid for: only 1.5 bar fuel pressure now.
No problem, because it is an adjustable fuelpressure regulator.
So I pushed her to 3 bar with no vacuüm. Easy this far.
But.... now I do not know what the exact fuel pressure was before the rebuild of this regulator. Meaning: I need to check A/F and probably map the car again... *sigh*.
The 20 year old tripple pass Ron Davis radiator is leaking.
At the same time I saw that the TRD thermostat is stuck too, no good.
After a long ride, the next morning, there is a lot off coolant on the floor below the radiator. Perhaps the rad cap too, dunno.
Anyway, got myself an Mishimoto radiator (# MMRAD-CEL-89) and an Mishimoto thermostat (# MMTS-TC-05L). The TRD was 71°C and the Mischimoto is 68°C. But that is no problem, I can make changes for the fans in the Autronic, if needed.
The Mishimoto radiator is equiped with an new 1,3 bar rad cap, so that is nice too. My old cap was an 1,3 bar TRD cap.
Just find me some time to install the stuff. The car is at the painter now, due to some rust behind the left front wheel.
Just an fyi, I couldn't run the factory cooling fan shroud with that radiator despite my sincere interest in doing so. The mounting screw location on the mishi rad was too different from OEM and I was too new at welding to try to fix it.
They may have resolved that in later versions .. it has been a few years. But I just wanted to bring it to your attention in case you run into similar issues.
I ended up running a mishi fan with their fans mounting kit. It works ok. It will be a problem for me soon though since I need to clock my new turbo and run the intercooler pipes directly where the fan sits.
Thanks for your warning.
You are correct, the fan does not fit the Mishimoto. My fan was already modified for the Ron Davis radiator, but it does fit nowhere on the Mishimoto radiator.
Contacted Mishimoto about what fan to order, I think that is the best solution.
Ordered an Spal fan at an local shop. Hope to get it soon.
Contacted Mishimoto about the fan problem and now they ask me about pictures etc. I will do that later on.
In the mean time I swapped the thermostat for the new Mishimoto one and make me some radiator brackets, since the old ones were modified for the Ron Davis radiator.
BTW, the Ron Davis radiator is een tripple pass radiator but the Mishimoto is much thicker. I really doubt if the stock fan is fitting between the rad and the rest off the engine?
For me not important, the stock fan is about 10 cm thick but my new Spal fan is about 6 cm. That should work.
Made custom brackets for the Spal to fit the Mishimoto. Works good now. Installed in the car and fired her up last evening. Fans did work and no leakage, looks good.
Now reinstall the other parts and she should be good.
She is in the car, mounts are made, coolant filled and tested, no time for an decent test drive yet.
The top hose needed to be cut off about 1 or 2 cm.
The Mishimoto is much thicker than the old Ron Davis radiator and with the stock length there was an nasty bent in the hose. Bottom hose is long enough and needed no adjustments.