Ah I see you are looking for the wires on the fuel pump assembly that are unique to the car. My mistake I forgot there is a connection at the top of the fuel pump assy.simple":241htch4 said:I would grab a donor fuel pump wire harness off a junkyard car. Then the slice happens inside the car and water/fuel proofing isn't such an issue.
Another Toyota of the same era should work. I grab stuff off Corolla, RAV4, Celica, etc all the time.
Roreri":24hqueuj said:Man what a great outcome. I love this sort of story.
Can’t wait to get my injectors back from Fuel Injector Specialists and get mine back on the road!
supra-raleigh":33hlvr0i said:I made sure the slotted screw driver fit snugly into the top of the phillips screws.
supra-raleigh":3s8b9le1 said:Roreri":3s8b9le1 said:Man what a great outcome. I love this sort of story.
Can’t wait to get my injectors back from Fuel Injector Specialists and get mine back on the road!
Thanks Roreri, I would be interested in hearing about the before and after when you get your injectors back in the car.
Also, how much do they charge and what does their service entail?
WHY AM I JUST NOW FINDING OUT ABOUT THIS!underscore":3ve5d364 said:supra-raleigh":3ve5d364 said:I made sure the slotted screw driver fit snugly into the top of the phillips screws.
Something I was told recently but haven't been able to confirm yet, Toyota actually uses JIS screws which are very similar to Philips screws but slightly different. Which would explain why I've stripped so many of them in my cars over the years.
93celicaconv said:Pic 9474A shows a better view of the fuel pump black wire. This is a ground wire. Note that while the end on the fuel pump has the eyelet with a nut & lock washer securing it, the opposite end that is attached to the bracket is attached with a tamper-proof screw (it looks like it is a rivet, but it has threads on the opposite side).
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Attention Please 93celicaconv : My fix on the negative wiring on my fuel pump to fuel pump hangar failed after 40 miles. I dropped the fuel tank again and the crimped on butt connector on the negative wire failed.
Before I re-attempt to fix the negative wiring, can you explain how the tamper-proof screw used to secure the eylet for the negative wire comes out?
Here is the game plan:
Remove the tamper proof screw.
Solder in an appropriate wire. (what kind of wire and where do I get it?)
Refasten the tamper proof screw.
Again for the negative wire, it looks like 14 gauge. But, is there a special type of wire/insullation rated for fuel? Is there a special type of solder used for this situation?