90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

simple

Member
I would grab a donor fuel pump wire harness off a junkyard car. Then the slice happens inside the car and water/fuel proofing isn't such an issue.

Another Toyota of the same era should work. I grab stuff off Corolla, RAV4, Celica, etc all the time.
 
I'm looking for a kit like this;


One terminal is 7mm and the other is 8mm I think.
 

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I'll attach some pictures of a fuel pump assembly on a bracket involving an AT180 / ST184 (these utilize the same fuel pump bracket & pump assemblies).

Pic 9473A shows the wiring for the fuel level sender and for the low fuel warning lamp sender. The only wire in this picture involving the fuel pump is the black wire off on the left side.
IMG_9473A.jpg

Pic 9474A shows a better view of the fuel pump black wire. This is a ground wire. Note that while the end on the fuel pump has the eyelet with a nut & lock washer securing it, the opposite end that is attached to the bracket is attached with a tamper-proof screw (it looks like it is a rivet, but it has threads on the opposite side).
IMG_9474A.jpg

Pic 9475A shows the fuel pump +12V source power wire (sort of a navy-blue picture - wire is in front of the pump hose that has two bands on it). Except for the wire color, this wire is secured in exactly the same way as the ground wire.
IMG_9475A.jpg

If you need to replace both the ground and the +12V power wire on your bracket assembly, make darn sure your screws will never come loose. You sure don't want to have a loose connection that gets locally hot, or worse, arcs when in service. I know gasoline can't ignite if the ignition source is not surrounded by oxygen, but if the fuel level is below a loose wire connection, and if the car is run on a very hot day, then brought into a garage and the air temperature cools substantially, the tank will vent in outside air (so it doesn't collapse) which will have oxygen in it. Hence, be very careful to ensure the wire end fasteners never come loose.
 
Thanks for the great tips. However, those pictures look like the fuel pump I recently removed from my 1991 Celica ST. The All-Trac fuel pump bracket assembly is not the same as the ST. The All-Trac also has the fuel level sender on a separate assembly.
 

simple

Member
simple":241htch4 said:
I would grab a donor fuel pump wire harness off a junkyard car. Then the slice happens inside the car and water/fuel proofing isn't such an issue.

Another Toyota of the same era should work. I grab stuff off Corolla, RAV4, Celica, etc all the time.
Ah I see you are looking for the wires on the fuel pump assembly that are unique to the car. My mistake I forgot there is a connection at the top of the fuel pump assy.
 
Update.

I removed the fuel level sender unit and noticed that the low fuel level sensor on the bottom of the second arm is missing. Is this part still available for sale? Does anyone know if another sensor from some other Toyota/Lexus will work?
 
I got a fuel level sending unit on Ebay that was for a 1998-2002 Toyota Corolla. It looks as if I can get the low fuel sensor that comes with it to work with some cutting and splicing.
 
Update.

I finally received the fuel level sensor and low fuel light assembly from the Corolla. I cut the low fuel level switch/sensor off using tin snips and also cut the wire and stripped it about 1/4 inch. I then put the switch/sensor where the original one was and bent the part that holds the sensor, the bottom of the metal arm, with some pliers to make a nice pressure fit of the new switch/sensor to the arm. I then soldered the wire to the original wiring and used some heat shrink.

Then, I went out to the car and plugged my nicely refurbished All-Trac fuel level sender in. I turned the key to the ON position and within a few moments the LOW FUEL level light illuminated! Then I moved the fuel level arm all the way up and the gauge on the instrument cluster slowly moved to the F position!!

Finally, I then wanted to verify that the LOW FUEL level light would extinguish itself when submerged in fuel. I cut out a hole in the bottom of a nearly full fuel injection cleaner bottle and then submerged the low fuel switch/sensor in the bottle. After a few moments, the LOW FUEL light turned off!!!

Now I am going to put it all back together and hopefully have a nice running All-Trac.
 
Alright the car is running!

With the tank installed, I put a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil, some Sta-bil, and a can of Berryman B12 Chemtool in the fuel tank with 2 gallons of 93 octane fuel. I removed the EFI fuse and cranked the engine a few times until the oil pressure light turned off while cranking. This confirmed that sufficient oil pressure was present. I jumped the Fp and B+ in the diagnostic port under the hood and heard the fuel system come to life. After letting the fuel pump run for 5 minutes it was time to try to start the car. I then sprayed some carb cleaner under the air filter in the air box and put the EFI fuse back in. After alot of cranking, the car stumbled to life under it's own power. First it was running on maybe only one, then two then all four cylinders woke up. The car idled erratically for a few minutes and then smoothed out. The engine was relatively quiet considering it sat for nearly 5 years. I think the additives I put in the tank probably helped in this regard.

I let it idle for a half an hour and discovered the fan on the passenger side was not coming on. I removed the blue relay that is in the relay box by the passenger headlight part #90987-02009. Then, I put in a paperclip jumper where the 3 and 5 terminals of the relay fit into. The passenger side fan then came on.

Also, the fan will run constantly if you reach down to the bottom of the radiator by the alternator cooling duct and disconnect the temperature switch.

Next, I went to the gas station and put in some more Marvel Mystery Oil and another can of Berryman B12 then filled the tank with 93 octane. After a wash, I put 20 miles on the car, with each mile, the car smoothed out, the throttle response kept improving, and it is making boost although I am not going for an Italian tune up here.

When I got home, I purchased on EBAY the relay for the passenger side fan. I got two for under $20. This relay is not All-Trac specific which is why it is not expensive.

It is great to have the Trac back on the road.
 

Roreri

Active member
Man what a great outcome. I love this sort of story.

Can’t wait to get my injectors back from Fuel Injector Specialists and get mine back on the road!
 
Roreri":24hqueuj said:
Man what a great outcome. I love this sort of story.

Can’t wait to get my injectors back from Fuel Injector Specialists and get mine back on the road!

Thanks Roreri, I would be interested in hearing about the before and after when you get your injectors back in the car.

Also, how much do they charge and what does their service entail?
 
Update.

Now I got my CHECK ENGINE light back! And, while I was at it, I fixed my slow/non-reading tachometer!! I removed the guage cluster using the following link: viewtopic.php?f=49&t=48848

I took the light for the CHECK ENGINE out of the back of the guage cluster and applied voltage via a 9 Volt battery. At first it did not turn on. I then applied pressure and squeezed the top of the bulb firmly into the black base and the light came on.

Two top tips..

1. Avoid Stripping Screws And Threads: Removing the guage cluster requires the removal of many screws that are more that willing to strip out both the head of the screw and the female threads that they are screwed into. Therefore, I used my small 3/8 drive right angle Milwaukee impact wrench with a 13mm socket and a SLOTED screw driver forced into the socket with a pressure fit. I made sure the slotted screw driver fit snugly into the top of the phillips screws. I put some of my weight into it so the slotted screw driver would not strip the screw heads. Then I slowly pulled the trigger on the Milwaukee and the screws one by one all gave in and started to loosen.

2. The Metal Retaining Clip: The driver side vent by the fog light switch has a trapazoidal knob attached to the rod that moves up and down so as to open and close the vent behind it. The knob is not too difficult to remove it just pulls out with some force. However, I again overlooked the metal clip that slides onto the rod and retains the knob. It is easy to overlook because when you put the panel back on that goes under the knob, the part of the panel in which the rod goes up and down in pushes the metal clip further down the rod. And when you go to put the panel in its proper position and screw it down, you then put the knob back on and notice that it will not fasten itself to the rod because the metal clip that is supposed to retain the rod has been pushed back about an inch as you were putting the panel in place.

Next, I removed the panel again and I had to use some PB Blaster and two angled pliers to remove the metal clip from the rod. I took alot of force and when the clip did slide off, it flew off as soon as it was free from the rod. Luckily, it landed inside my shirt. I then reinstalled the panel and when everything was in place, I put the metal clip on the end of the rod and pushed it down the rod until it was flush with the rod. I then was able to put that trapazoidal knob securely back in place.

I said "I again overlooked" because I made the same mistake sometime in the late 90's on my 1991 Celica ST while I was installing a set of Indiglo guage faces which are still working on the car. But this time I figured it out that there is that metal clip that is supposed to retain the knob.

I am sure that many of us made this error so here is the solution. I hope this helps someone out.
 

underscore

Well-known member
supra-raleigh":33hlvr0i said:
I made sure the slotted screw driver fit snugly into the top of the phillips screws.

Something I was told recently but haven't been able to confirm yet, Toyota actually uses JIS screws which are very similar to Philips screws but slightly different. Which would explain why I've stripped so many of them in my cars over the years.
 

Roreri

Active member
supra-raleigh":3s8b9le1 said:
Roreri":3s8b9le1 said:
Man what a great outcome. I love this sort of story.

Can’t wait to get my injectors back from Fuel Injector Specialists and get mine back on the road!

Thanks Roreri, I would be interested in hearing about the before and after when you get your injectors back in the car.

Also, how much do they charge and what does their service entail?

Fuel Injector Specialists are legit. They charged $90 to service and ship four injectors. This included before and after pictures of the spray pattern, before and after flow testing, and impedance testing results.

I had to get new fuel rail isolators and new o-rings for where the injectors sit in the fuel rail--those were on me. But the actual o-rings on the injectors, I believe they replaced.

As it turned out, clogged fuel injectors was not the source of my problem. But, I've had my injectors serviced at the 50,000 mile mark, so they're probably good for life. Chuck at Fuel Injector Specialists kinda gave me to believe that it might be a good idea to get some backups if I were to stick with the old side feeds, but hell, at that point, engine swap or swap out to a top feed fuel rail will be more to the point.
 
underscore":3ve5d364 said:
supra-raleigh":3ve5d364 said:
I made sure the slotted screw driver fit snugly into the top of the phillips screws.

Something I was told recently but haven't been able to confirm yet, Toyota actually uses JIS screws which are very similar to Philips screws but slightly different. Which would explain why I've stripped so many of them in my cars over the years.
WHY AM I JUST NOW FINDING OUT ABOUT THIS!

I have been working on my 91 Celica ST since I got it in 1995 and I never had a clue that the screws were not Phillips. This knowledge therefore should be one of the first things taught to anyone who wishes to work on a car with JIS screws.

Hopefully this information can be stickied so as to prevent countless headaches due to stripped screws.
 
93celicaconv said:
Pic 9474A shows a better view of the fuel pump black wire. This is a ground wire. Note that while the end on the fuel pump has the eyelet with a nut & lock washer securing it, the opposite end that is attached to the bracket is attached with a tamper-proof screw (it looks like it is a rivet, but it has threads on the opposite side).
View attachment 1

Attention Please 93celicaconv : My fix on the negative wiring on my fuel pump to fuel pump hangar failed after 40 miles. I dropped the fuel tank again and the crimped on butt connector on the negative wire failed.

Before I re-attempt to fix the negative wiring, can you explain how the tamper-proof screw used to secure the eylet for the negative wire comes out?

Here is the game plan:
Remove the tamper proof screw.
Solder in an appropriate wire. (what kind of wire and where do I get it?)
Refasten the tamper proof screw.

Again for the negative wire, it looks like 14 gauge. But, is there a special type of wire/insullation rated for fuel? Is there a special type of solder used for this situation?
 
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