Oil pan gasket.... hard to replace?

Hey everyone... back on the forum after a long hiatus.

Problem is my ST165 smokes a lot after being driven hard (grey smoke billowing from under the hood... smells like burning oil). I think this is a leaky oil pan gasket that is leaking oil onto the pipe that's right underneath it (whatever that is) because I can see it burning off on that. I check the oil pretty often so I can tell that it's leaking but not ALL that fast. I haven't really had to add oil since I got back from school a few months ago. Nonetheless, it smells bad and it's a pain in the ass.

So I was wondering how hard it would be for me to replace the oil pan gasket, which is what the dealer told me the problem was. I have been quoted $360-500 to fix this and I really don't think it's worth it, considering it's not hurting anything, just smelling bad.

If anyone has experience with this and/or BGB scans I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

I'm pretty sure you dont have an oil pan gasket. Mine was glued shut with silicone and I'm pretty sure yours will be too. It was a bitch to get off. You should be able to go to a local parts house and get a pan gasket but you wont be able to get one from toyota.

Toyota use seal packing (the instant gasket). You can get it from Toyota dealer Part # 08826-00080

hi there! I JUST replaced my oil pan gasket a month or two ago. Okay, like they were saying, get the black silicone gasket maker from Toyota. It's the BEST. You don't want to use a cork or whatever gasket. Besides, the oil pan has a groove/lip for the silicone to be placed and snugged in.

To get the oil pan off, you'll need to remove both under crossmembers. It might help to d/c the exhaust from the dp and just push it aside (the flex pipe should allow it). Otherwise, it's not TOO bad from there on. Make sure you clean up the oil pan lip VERY good. Use brass brush (brass won't hurt the aluminum) and scrub on the lip to help clean off the lips. Also, after you squeeze out the first droplets of the silicone from Toyota, you'll technically want it back up against the block in 3 minutes. No need to rush, but don't take your time either. It just helps to ensure proper seal. and when you go back up to seal, make sure there is NO oil around the lips/grooves, otherwise, you WILL have a leak still.

Goodluck! if you need pics, info or anything, just let me know. I will probably have what you need.

Bryan

Thanks for the replies all...

Yea, if you have pics and it wouldn't be too hard for you to upload them, that would be great. My email address is maltun@umail.ucsb.edu... just so I make sure I am doing everything right.

Make sure you put a bead of about 5mm wide into the groove on the pan lip. Also, run the bead on the inside of the bolt holes. On the one edge under the #4 bearing cap, make sure you run the silicone right out to the edge. Torque the bolts in several passes as well.

However, I would take a harder look to make sure it is your oil pan that is leaking, and not something else that is leaking down from above.

That Toyota packing material is awsome 100 and 1 uses man.

jkgts1

Yeah. I believe when you buy a tube of it, there's enough for two oil pan gaskets to be made. it actually comes in handy, in case you messed up. I messed up the first time, so i was glad there was still plenty left

Bryan

I did the oil pan gasket when I had the turbo sent out to get its seals replaced. With the flex pipe out of the way, the job was pretty easy. There are a couple of bolts behind the cross member that I had to use a U-socket. But other than that, it wasn't bad at all.

when you start taking off the crossmembers, use a breakover. and be sure to have your cheater bar ready...you might need it

Bryan