Fox 21 Alpha
New member
So I have a fresh build on my engine and now after about 50 or 60 miles or so it doesn't hold oil pressure when warmed up.
A quick run down of what I did. Started stock with 120k, was running ok.
Head
Head decked and checked by machine shop. New ferra valves, stock size. GSC 268 cams from ATS. ATS adjustable cam gears. ATS head studs. New gaskets and small stuff.
Block
Torn down, checked, decked cleaned by machine shop. Crank had a bad main bearing or cap, I don't remember which that was bad and was gonna be shot in like 100 miles or so (lucky eh?). Crank ground down a mm or three or something of the sort. Machine shop provided appropriate bearings to compensate difference. Pistons cleaned and checked. block lightly honed, new rings. ATS high volume oil pump, new OEM water pump, timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys (used aftermarket for the pulleys). New freeze plugs. Everything else cleaned, new gaskets as appropriate usually. Block painted with high temp engine paint rattle can. Couple parts brackets powder coated here and there.
Turbo
ATS GT28RS turbo kit. Bored fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator (which was leaking slightly. So I tightened it more, it moved a milimeter. Now it rains down fuel like a waterfall making car the undriveable to the shop. bastards. think maybe its coming out where the FPR swivels/is almost 2 piece?). ROM tune with race map option.
Full 3 inch exhaust, ATS down pipe, group buy mid pipe, HKS silent hi power. Walbro 255 fuel pump. Ron davis rad. new fuel filter. CM 300 clutch and lightweight fly wheel. Used their throw out bearing they provide which makes horrid noise. Stock A2A while I work on W2A setup. Lot of general maintenance, new steering rack and pump and soft lines, replaced a lot of vacumm hoses.
Also did a lot of maintenance other where, new half shafts, ball joints, tie rod ends, new wheel bearings, rear suspension bearings, gas tank dropped and coated/renewed, etc etc etc.
I was driving and working out some quirks here and there, nothing major, had my turbo outlet rubber hardware store connector get too hot and flexible and pop off a few times. A2A intercooler pipe rewelded at semi proper angle so I could fit semi decent race coupler for turbo outlet. that cleared codes 24 and 32 (which I got from it popping off), only code 42 (speed sensor) remained.
I was driving more and more, still being gentle as I could. Was driving down open road, got on it a little (aka the turbo kicked in but not by much, I didn't want this thing to blow and was still a new clutch) so I got up to like 70 or something, but was inline with normal driving, I was flooring it. Heard a weird noise, like a muffled pop or something as I was finishing and getting ready to slow, but it was quick. Coulda been something I ran over in the road or backfire or something more serious. Didn't think much of it. Low oil pressure light starts its friggin flicker. Would go away with the slightest amount of gas. pulled into work (which was where I was pulling into anyways) and checked the engine and under the car. Nothing out of ordinary (had some small leaks here and there I was still working on).
Drove home 8 hours later in the morning. No problems, no oil light. bout 35 mins in as I get near my house it starts to flicker again. Would still go away with slightest amount of gas. Would not stay solid, though it did get stronger and stay on solid for a second at a stop sign. I parked it and let it sit for a few days.
Borrowed a pressure tester. I have well over 40 psi at idle on start up, and plenty more at 3000k. As the engine warmed up though, it would slowly drop. It takes about 20-30 mins, and I would eventually be approaching under 5 psi at idle and mid 20s at 3000k (BGB spec is 4psi min at idle and something like 35pis at 3000 rpms). I stopped there. Interestingly enough, it didn't seem completely tied to operating temps, as I would hit operating time within 5 or 10 mins, I'd be middle of the gauge or slightly lower (ron davis works goooood). The oil pressure would just continue to drop as time went on. I imagine the oil heats up slower then the coolant?
I did assemble the block, and put the head on (they put the valve train in place. Only weird thing is they cut the valve stems to get the right clearance rather then mess with the shims. Say they do it all the time and no problems as long as you dont' wanna adjust later lol).
Its the first time I assembled a lower end. I followed the BGB. I didn't plastigauge much anything since it was all machined to proper spec, what could go wrong. I can't say for sure if I lubed the cams. I know for a fact though I doused them with oil before I put the valve cover on (it did sit for a few weeks till it started though). Used lucus engine break in oil additive. Used conventional 10-30w oil.
When it first ran was only on two cylinders while we messed with it for awhile. Loose injector wires at ECU, fixed that and she ran smooth. Engine actually ran real smooth and no issues. No knocking or weird noises from engine at idle or speed, other then what I'm pretty sure is a jacked up throwout bearing.
My next step is to get some sort of oil pressure kit that you hook up to the sensor port, and I guess it has an air tank and/or oil tank it pressurizes the oil system and supposedly you'll find your leak real fast. I imagine this is with the pan off. Sounds messy. I think I'm going to pull the pan and look up. Hoping maybe I have a loose bearing cap or something? Could the head studs stretched loose and be the problem? I have no large oil leaks anywhere though. Oil cooler has new o rings, but doesn't seem to have any issues. I'm just looking for ideas on what to check before I have to take this entire engine out again...
Cliff notes: Engine no worky....
A quick run down of what I did. Started stock with 120k, was running ok.
Head
Head decked and checked by machine shop. New ferra valves, stock size. GSC 268 cams from ATS. ATS adjustable cam gears. ATS head studs. New gaskets and small stuff.
Block
Torn down, checked, decked cleaned by machine shop. Crank had a bad main bearing or cap, I don't remember which that was bad and was gonna be shot in like 100 miles or so (lucky eh?). Crank ground down a mm or three or something of the sort. Machine shop provided appropriate bearings to compensate difference. Pistons cleaned and checked. block lightly honed, new rings. ATS high volume oil pump, new OEM water pump, timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys (used aftermarket for the pulleys). New freeze plugs. Everything else cleaned, new gaskets as appropriate usually. Block painted with high temp engine paint rattle can. Couple parts brackets powder coated here and there.
Turbo
ATS GT28RS turbo kit. Bored fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator (which was leaking slightly. So I tightened it more, it moved a milimeter. Now it rains down fuel like a waterfall making car the undriveable to the shop. bastards. think maybe its coming out where the FPR swivels/is almost 2 piece?). ROM tune with race map option.
Full 3 inch exhaust, ATS down pipe, group buy mid pipe, HKS silent hi power. Walbro 255 fuel pump. Ron davis rad. new fuel filter. CM 300 clutch and lightweight fly wheel. Used their throw out bearing they provide which makes horrid noise. Stock A2A while I work on W2A setup. Lot of general maintenance, new steering rack and pump and soft lines, replaced a lot of vacumm hoses.
Also did a lot of maintenance other where, new half shafts, ball joints, tie rod ends, new wheel bearings, rear suspension bearings, gas tank dropped and coated/renewed, etc etc etc.
I was driving and working out some quirks here and there, nothing major, had my turbo outlet rubber hardware store connector get too hot and flexible and pop off a few times. A2A intercooler pipe rewelded at semi proper angle so I could fit semi decent race coupler for turbo outlet. that cleared codes 24 and 32 (which I got from it popping off), only code 42 (speed sensor) remained.
I was driving more and more, still being gentle as I could. Was driving down open road, got on it a little (aka the turbo kicked in but not by much, I didn't want this thing to blow and was still a new clutch) so I got up to like 70 or something, but was inline with normal driving, I was flooring it. Heard a weird noise, like a muffled pop or something as I was finishing and getting ready to slow, but it was quick. Coulda been something I ran over in the road or backfire or something more serious. Didn't think much of it. Low oil pressure light starts its friggin flicker. Would go away with the slightest amount of gas. pulled into work (which was where I was pulling into anyways) and checked the engine and under the car. Nothing out of ordinary (had some small leaks here and there I was still working on).
Drove home 8 hours later in the morning. No problems, no oil light. bout 35 mins in as I get near my house it starts to flicker again. Would still go away with slightest amount of gas. Would not stay solid, though it did get stronger and stay on solid for a second at a stop sign. I parked it and let it sit for a few days.
Borrowed a pressure tester. I have well over 40 psi at idle on start up, and plenty more at 3000k. As the engine warmed up though, it would slowly drop. It takes about 20-30 mins, and I would eventually be approaching under 5 psi at idle and mid 20s at 3000k (BGB spec is 4psi min at idle and something like 35pis at 3000 rpms). I stopped there. Interestingly enough, it didn't seem completely tied to operating temps, as I would hit operating time within 5 or 10 mins, I'd be middle of the gauge or slightly lower (ron davis works goooood). The oil pressure would just continue to drop as time went on. I imagine the oil heats up slower then the coolant?
I did assemble the block, and put the head on (they put the valve train in place. Only weird thing is they cut the valve stems to get the right clearance rather then mess with the shims. Say they do it all the time and no problems as long as you dont' wanna adjust later lol).
Its the first time I assembled a lower end. I followed the BGB. I didn't plastigauge much anything since it was all machined to proper spec, what could go wrong. I can't say for sure if I lubed the cams. I know for a fact though I doused them with oil before I put the valve cover on (it did sit for a few weeks till it started though). Used lucus engine break in oil additive. Used conventional 10-30w oil.
When it first ran was only on two cylinders while we messed with it for awhile. Loose injector wires at ECU, fixed that and she ran smooth. Engine actually ran real smooth and no issues. No knocking or weird noises from engine at idle or speed, other then what I'm pretty sure is a jacked up throwout bearing.
My next step is to get some sort of oil pressure kit that you hook up to the sensor port, and I guess it has an air tank and/or oil tank it pressurizes the oil system and supposedly you'll find your leak real fast. I imagine this is with the pan off. Sounds messy. I think I'm going to pull the pan and look up. Hoping maybe I have a loose bearing cap or something? Could the head studs stretched loose and be the problem? I have no large oil leaks anywhere though. Oil cooler has new o rings, but doesn't seem to have any issues. I'm just looking for ideas on what to check before I have to take this entire engine out again...
Cliff notes: Engine no worky....
