CA Axle Washer for the nut?

UtahSleeper

Active member
I have had an issue with my passenger side bearings prematurely going out(under 1k miles). I have replaced the bearing a couple times and started wondering if maybe I don't have all the needed pieces.

With that, is there traditionally a washer style piece that goes behind the CV axle nut? I think my driver side has one, but I can't say for sure.

Any input would be appreciated.
 

underscore

Well-known member
I want to say yes there is but I can't actually find one in the parts diagrams. I've been told that if the hub was damaged by a bad bearing at some point it will continue to destroy any replacement bearings quite quickly.
 

fussellbug

New member
TI'm not sure what the reason was, but the Toyota EPC shows that ST185 produced from Aug 1990 to Jan 1991 have a washer part# 90201-20012 under the nut part# 90170-19002. ST185 from all other production dates have just the nut.
 

yyonline

Member
fussellbug":2oy76y93 said:
TI'm not sure what the reason was, but the Toyota EPC shows that ST185 produced from Aug 1990 to Jan 1991 have a washer part# 90201-20012 under the nut part# 90170-19002. ST185 from all other production dates have just the nut.

92 switched to a larger thread for the axle and a nut with an integral washer.
 

UtahSleeper

Active member
Hmm.....may have to see if the 90 washer would work. I feel like I saw a washer on the driver side.

I have heard that to about the bearing wear, but when I replaced it there was only early warning signs and no visual indicators of dead hub.
 

UtahSleeper

Active member
So, I am guessing there is a washer, but still haven't found one I can buy. In the below video I show what is happening to my cv axle nut. May be caused by the lack of washer and the proper cover to go over the nut. Not sure. Can anyone give a confirmation for sure they have one. And with that, anyone ever found one to buy?

https://youtu.be/lqSAu5lPrXk?t=313
 

yyonline

Member
UtahSleeper":3oo2xhq7 said:
So, I am guessing there is a washer, but still haven't found one I can buy. In the below video I show what is happening to my cv axle nut. May be caused by the lack of washer and the proper cover to go over the nut. Not sure. Can anyone give a confirmation for sure they have one. And with that, anyone ever found one to buy?

https://youtu.be/lqSAu5lPrXk?t=313

For ST165, the nut and washer are separate from Toyota. However, the nut in your video has the washer integrated. That shouldn't really make a difference though. The washer is Toyota part number 90201-20012, and it looks like it's still available. The factory nut has been discontinued, however. If you use the nut with the integrated washer, plus a separate nut, it may be too thick and you might not be able to install the cotter pin.

Personally, I've always torqued my axle nuts using a torque wrench to the proper spec, and I've never had an issue with one coming loose.
 

Rick89GTS

New member
I'm surprised you're having difficulty finding the washer. I've had separate washer and integrated ones come with re-manufactured CV axles. Any washer of the same size should be fine if you can't find OEM.
 

UtahSleeper

Active member
yyonline":2olpssxy said:
UtahSleeper":2olpssxy said:
So, I am guessing there is a washer, but still haven't found one I can buy. In the below video I show what is happening to my cv axle nut. May be caused by the lack of washer and the proper cover to go over the nut. Not sure. Can anyone give a confirmation for sure they have one. And with that, anyone ever found one to buy?

https://youtu.be/lqSAu5lPrXk?t=313

For ST165, the nut and washer are separate from Toyota. However, the nut in your video has the washer integrated. That shouldn't really make a difference though. The washer is Toyota part number 90201-20012, and it looks like it's still available. The factory nut has been discontinued, however. If you use the nut with the integrated washer, plus a separate nut, it may be too thick and you might not be able to install the cotter pin.

Personally, I've always torqued my axle nuts using a torque wrench to the proper spec, and I've never had an issue with one coming loose.

Guess the part number helps alot. I need to get better at finding this. I am not sure why the nut keeps backing out cause I did the driver side and have had no issue. I think there are 2 differences between sides. Driver has the washer (but may have the old nut style) and it has the proper cover(or whatever it's called) that goes on before the cotter pin. I have tried to go to proper spec before, but it has never stopped the nut from backing out.
 

UtahSleeper

Active member
Rick89GTS":a6wtcauo said:
I'm surprised you're having difficulty finding the washer. I've had separate washer and integrated ones come with re-manufactured CV axles. Any washer of the same size should be fine if you can't find OEM.

I think I was just not looking in the right places. I had ordered some off rock auto, that claimed to be for the front, and were not. I am guessing how I was searching before was just wrong since you guys were able to pull it up real quick lol.
 

UtahSleeper

Active member
93celicaconv":2mb4wzpi said:
Is this the diagram you were looking for?

Thanks for this. I think it's the front adjusting/lock cap that I needed to get. I could be wrong, but at a few bucks it's worth a try.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Without the little cap that goes with the split pin to prevent the nut from moving as I understand it the forces from driving/stopping can undo the nut, though one side should be more prone to it than the other. I was told that's why the single-nut wheel adapters for some of those funky wire wheels are reverse thread for one side of the car,
 
underscore":1w6o07d0 said:
Without the little cap that goes with the split pin to prevent the nut from moving as I understand it the forces from driving/stopping can undo the nut, though one side should be more prone to it than the other. I was told that's why the single-nut wheel adapters for some of those funky wire wheels are reverse thread for one side of the car,
If you look at the diagram previously provided in this thread, you will see the nut for the axle hub on both RH & LH sides is the same on an ST185 (P/N 90179-22020). And of course, one never uses just the nut w/o the castle cap and and the cotter pin - maintaining preload on that bearing is critical, so having the proper torque applied upon initial installation is a must - and without the castle nut / cotter pin preventing the nut from moving, you can't maintain preload so the bearing fails.
 

underscore

Well-known member
93celicaconv":1gi8wu7w said:
underscore":1gi8wu7w said:
Without the little cap that goes with the split pin to prevent the nut from moving as I understand it the forces from driving/stopping can undo the nut, though one side should be more prone to it than the other. I was told that's why the single-nut wheel adapters for some of those funky wire wheels are reverse thread for one side of the car,
If you look at the diagram previously provided in this thread, you will see the nut for the axle hub on both RH & LH sides is the same on an ST185 (P/N 90179-22020). And of course, one never uses just the nut w/o the castle cap and and the cotter pin - maintaining preload on that bearing is critical, so having the proper torque applied upon initial installation is a must - and without the castle nut / cotter pin preventing the nut from moving, you can't maintain preload so the bearing fails.

Yeah that was my point, if OP is missing that cap he's going to have difficulties.
 
underscore":2il9191r said:
93celicaconv":2il9191r said:
underscore":2il9191r said:
Without the little cap that goes with the split pin to prevent the nut from moving as I understand it the forces from driving/stopping can undo the nut, though one side should be more prone to it than the other. I was told that's why the single-nut wheel adapters for some of those funky wire wheels are reverse thread for one side of the car,
If you look at the diagram previously provided in this thread, you will see the nut for the axle hub on both RH & LH sides is the same on an ST185 (P/N 90179-22020). And of course, one never uses just the nut w/o the castle cap and and the cotter pin - maintaining preload on that bearing is critical, so having the proper torque applied upon initial installation is a must - and without the castle nut / cotter pin preventing the nut from moving, you can't maintain preload so the bearing fails.

Yeah that was my point, if OP is missing that cap he's going to have difficulties.
Yes - I was in violent agreement with you.
 

UtahSleeper

Active member
Yea, I am agreeing with everyone that is probably the cause of my grief. I had no clue before what it's real purpose was, and it was missing before I bought the car, so I just went with it. 3 sets of bearings later and a new hub, I am hoping this issue will be gone lol.

Thanks for all the useful info everyone.
 
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