finally going to attempt to replace rear bushings

[lalojamesliz1]

I bought some poly rear bushings and supra spherical bushings several months ago. I also bought wheel bearings for all 4 wheels just in case. I'm off the next 4 days so I think it's a good opportunity now. I'll search around but anyone have any advice?
I have a otc front end puller set, impact gun, otc hub grappler, a few large hammers and the usual sockets and other in a 5ft toolbox. I can rent a bearing press kit to use the metal cup things. I'm sure that's not what they are called but I'm sure you guys know what I mean
I need the torque specs too for the subframe if any one has them.
a while back when I rebuilt my read diff mount I remember one of the long bolts didn't want to tighten to the torque spec so I'll need to be careful with that one. one of my front control arm bolts stripped and I've ignored that too.... man I feel like I'm playing with fire on that one. I need to get a replacement for it but I always forget about it.

[underscore]

I'd say start with the worst stuff and go from there. That way if the control arm bolt takes up a bunch of your time you can just postpone the other stuff and do it later.

[yyonline]

(4WD only)
Rear suspension lower crossmember–to–body
mounting bolts
Torque: 159 N–m (1,620 kgf–cm, 117 ft–lbf)

[lalojamesliz1]

I'd say start with the worst stuff and go from there. That way if the control arm bolt takes up a bunch of your time you can just postpone the other stuff and do it later.

so your saying start by removing the control arms to the hub?
my all-trac doesn't have any visible rust/corrosion so that should help.
if I just want to replace the subframe bushings, can I just unbolt the diff from the subframe then support the diff and unbolt then pull out the subframe?

[underscore]

I haven't tried removing the subframe while leaving the diff, it might be doable but it might be easier to just unbolt the driveshaft and axles from the diff and take the diff with you.

[lalojamesliz1]

I haven't tried removing the subframe while leaving the diff, it might be doable but it might be easier to just unbolt the driveshaft and axles from the diff and take the diff with you.

oh, okay I see. I'm getting ready to pull my all-trac into my garage to start and I'll look at it better. I was curious on how I would support the diff in the middle while I lower the subframe since I'd like to support it from both sides as I lower it. I have two floor jacks and 4 stands but if the stands are holding up the car I wouldn't have anything to support the diff.

[lalojamesliz1]

this is all I have now. just lube them and push them in right? if they need to be pressed in, I'm screwed

[underscore]

My solid subframe bushings I tapped in with a mallet. Put everything in the freezer for a few days ahead of time to shrink them and it'll make install a lot easier. The control arm bushings need to be pressed in but I'm heard of a few tricks to try to do it without a press. Be liberal with that grease stuff in the tube, it makes a big difference.

[lalojamesliz1]

My solid subframe bushings I tapped in with a mallet. Put everything in the freezer for a few days ahead of time to shrink them and it'll make install a lot easier. The control arm bushings need to be pressed in but I'm heard of a few tricks to try to do it without a press. Be liberal with that grease stuff in the tube, it makes a big difference.

well it's been a long day.... I spent a lot of time cleaning up the oily dirt from the subframe and diff because of the leaking seal on the input shaft for the diff. Besides that everything came off very easily. i unbolted the control arms from the hub and when I pulled the bolts out they lifted up on their own.
loosening the axles was a bit hard but the driveshaft was a little too easy. those bolts weren't tight at all.
I used my otc tir rod/inner bearing race puller to press out the original bushings and I used a bolt that fastened the subframe to press in the poly bushings. I cut up some pieces of metal and welded my rear diff mount making it solid.
I'm painting it now and tomorrow it goes back together

[lalojamesliz1]

(4WD only)
Rear suspension lower crossmember–to–body
mounting bolts
Torque: 159 N–m (1,620 kgf–cm, 117 ft–lbf)

thank you

[lalojamesliz1]

I finished around noon and I'm happy to say that freaking clucking sound is GONE! I had my doubts because the bushings didn't look that bad to me but I guess they were gone.
thanks for the help guys

[mickeyfinn]

this is all I have now. just lube them and push them in right? if they need to be pressed in, I'm screwed

Is your All trac an ST185? Where did you get the bushings and spherical bearings from?
I'm thinking to replace mine (ST165) Can't find the rear diff bushings anywhere.

[lalojamesliz1]

this is all I have now. just lube them and push them in right? if they need to be pressed in, I'm screwed

Is your All trac an ST185? Where did you get the bushings and spherical bearings from?
I'm thinking to replace mine (ST165) Can't find the rear diff bushings anywhere.

both on Ebay. the bushings came from Poland and the spherical bushings from the UAE....
http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-celica-st165

[mickeyfinn]

this is all I have now. just lube them and push them in right? if they need to be pressed in, I'm screwed

Is your All trac an ST185? Where did you get the bushings and spherical bearings from?
I'm thinking to replace mine (ST165) Can't find the rear diff bushings anywhere.

both on Ebay. the bushings came from Poland and the spherical bushings from the UAE....
http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-celica-st165

Thanks for the GT4 link. Would you happen to have the ebay links for the bushings?
(I found the UAE one)
Thanks!

[underscore]

I'd like a link to the spherical bushings as well if possible.