Junctrac":3jdau9yn said:Apparently there are some different size clutch slave and master cylinder sizes throughout the generations and if they get mismatched would cause problems:
viewtopic.php?t=52793
Im going to look into this myself as im having similar issues and nothing has helped yet.
Rebuilt or new master cylinders typically come with plastic fittings that a small dia. clear tube connects to, which is long enough to run the opposite end into the reservoir. So withe the reservoir full and the master cylinder installed, but the brake lines not yet connected, one slowly pumps the brake pedal and slowly releases, and continues to do so until no air bubbles are ejected from the master. Once bled, remove the temporary bleeders and reconnect the regular brake lines (followed by bleeding the individual brake lines, of course).lalojamesliz1":1esq8csb said:Any advice on bleeding the new master cylinder guys?
93celicaconv":10zsc9fk said:Rebuilt or new master cylinders typically come with plastic fittings that a small dia. clear tube connects to, which is long enough to run the opposite end into the reservoir. So withe the reservoir full and the master cylinder installed, but the brake lines not yet connected, one slowly pumps the brake pedal and slowly releases, and continues to do so until no air bubbles are ejected from the master. Once bled, remove the temporary bleeders and reconnect the regular brake lines (followed by bleeding the individual brake lines, of course).lalojamesliz1":10zsc9fk said:Any advice on bleeding the new master cylinder guys?
93celicaconv":3orbvv1s said:Let's check the cables. If cables are faulty, it will feel the same whether driving or parked, engine running or not. With car parked and engine not running, does it shift easily / normally?
93celicaconv":4ca3keql said:I would say this rules out shift cables as a source of the symptoms.
alltrac801":32unurnz said:93celicaconv":32unurnz said:I would say this rules out shift cables as a source of the symptoms.
I have to disagree. My car shifted just fine while not driving with bad cables. When driving 2nd was hard to shift into and 4th was a little tough too.
alltrac801":14k5do3s said:So when I originally got cables I ordered a used pair from EBAY for way to much money but i really wanted my car back on the road. If i remember correctly they were from a GTS so i had to modify the mounting a little. I havent tried the MR2Heaven ones yet but they look great. And yes the used cables solved my problem 100 percent.
I have no idea if thats the problem you are having but i just want to share my experience to possibly help.
Magroo":4qu9nee4 said:Just want to say inhave a very similar problem but mine is it won't go in to first at a dead stop unless I put it in second first.
Its probably worn syncros but I have a set pf used ebay cables in excellent condition I need to swap in when the weather gets a little warmer.
Another possibility I was thinking is the clutch fork pivot ball. I know they get worn and change clutch engagement. I havent checked mine yet.
93celicaconv":1zzcxc4q said:So have you discontinued your diagnostic progression to try to find out your root cause problem?
There are seal/gasket kits available for engines and transaxle assemblies for these vintage vehicles (at least there were, not sure if they are available). But when it comes to transaxle rebuilds, the items worn can only be ID'd during disassembly. If you are asking if you went on the assumption something internally is wrong in the transmission, and you took it out and started tearing it apart and found worn stuff, would the stuff that is worn be available anymore, I agree, it would be good to know.
I don't think you've concluded your root cause yet. I think your cables are fine, based upon the test you did (others appear to have differing opinions on that - you have to decide who you think is best to guide you). Your hydraulics and your clutch setup hasn't been worked through yet. You may have put a new clutch master cylinder in, but you have a clutch slave cylinder, air in fluid lines, adjustments in clutch linkages, etc. I would work through those first. If your clutch isn't properly disengaging from your flywheel when the engine is running, that would cause very similar symptoms you are experiencing. But from what I've read in this thread so far, you haven't done the testing to determine if that could be a probable cause, yet.