Please help me rid of this notchy shifting

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lalojamesliz1

New member
93celicaconv":2e5cyp5q said:
I would say this rules out shift cables as a source of the symptoms.

Let's now look at the clutch system (clutch pedal through the throughout bearing). If there is a problem with the clutch system, it should be noticeable when the car is parked but engine running this time. Since we determined the shift cables/linkages are working properly, but we don't want to load the synchros right now, trying to shift gears when using the clutch with the engine running is the way to do just that.

Engine running, shifter not in gear, clutch released, the clutch should be spinning and the input shaft to the trans freewheeling. Step on the clutch and shift quickly into 1st - any issue? Shift back to neutral, release clutch. Then step on the clutch and shift quickly into 2nd - any issue? Repeat for all forward gears and also repeat for reverse. Don't let the car move in gear with the engine running. How does the shifting into gear feel now? Any particular gear causing more problems than another?

Actually, to add to this, if you have some grinding when trying to shift into reverse, that is a clear indication the clutch is not releasing the flywheel properly. That gets us to review the clutch system. And if this is the symptom, and its been like this for anything longer than a very short period of time, most likely many of your synchros are worn and damaged, because the synchros are doing more that trying to match speeds of moving gears in the trans of which one set should be free-wheeling - if that one set is still being driven by the engine, the synchros needs to work much, much harder and wear much, much faster.
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I finally did this and paid much more attention and I'm happy to say I had no trouble shifting fast and releasing then going to each forward and even the reverse gear like you said to do.
It was a little harder to put into 1st after coming out of reverse (just a little) but no grinding
I noticed when I'm driving, if I upshift into 2nd slowly nothing happens. If i shift like I usually always do into all of the gears then I get the notchy/very slight grind shift.
I haven't looked into the trans yet
 
L

lalojamesliz1

New member
93celicaconv":26gt40vh said:
And all the above was based on engine running, car not moving?
Click to expand...

Yes Sir :)

I'm already using good oil (redline75W90NS) , I'm wondering if I should try something else.
To be honest I haven't checked the fluid level but I have no leaks on the trans and it has new seals tor the axles and driveshaft. I made sure it was filled properly when I added the oil originally. I'll check it next time I get a chance.
I've been itching to try out my new esco jack stands and this will be a great opportunity :lol:
 
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lalojamesliz1

New member
93celicaconv":2yl8xcew said:
And the transaxle assembly you have in there now was a used replacement for the original that was in there?
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Yup, the original trans failed on me. I was told it was a shift fork. I wanted to repair the trans but it grinded going into 3rd or 4th and reverse. I don't remember going into 2nd. so it needed work so instead I bought a st205 swap and this is the transmission and it had the oem clutch still. Well, a oem clutch.
. It was in decent cosmetic condition and the turbo has very little shaft play, the same little amount I've had on the 4 ct20b turbos that have crossed my hands over the years.
The oil I drained from the trans looked fine.
 
9

93celicaconv

Member
I continue to feel "confused" by your replies. What does the turbo have to do with a transmission swap?

Did your replacement ST205 transmission go through any inspection prior to you installing it, to ensure the synchros in it were good, your hubs had good teeth on them, etc.? Or did it come to you stating it was freshly rebuilt? Or did you rebuilt the ST2015 transmission before installing it?

If you didn't at least do a very thorough inspection (or take it to a transmission shop to do that for you), you run the risk of putting a transmission that is worn/damaged into your car thinking it should be good.
 
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lalojamesliz1

New member
93celicaconv":2f7ehdc5 said:
I continue to feel "confused" by your replies. What does the turbo have to do with a transmission swap?

Did your replacement ST205 transmission go through any inspection prior to you installing it, to ensure the synchros in it were good, your hubs had good teeth on them, etc.? Or did it come to you stating it was freshly rebuilt? Or did you rebuilt the ST2015 transmission before installing it?

If you didn't at least do a very thorough inspection (or take it to a transmission shop to do that for you), you run the risk of putting a transmission that is worn/damaged into your car thinking it should be good.
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I meant that the turbo doesn't look overly worn indicating high milage. I know that's not the best way to tell or even a good way but it's the only way I have to my limited knowledge.
I wasn't able to do a compression test since it had sparkplug porcelain in one of the cylinders and that wouldn't let it turn over. Just trying to get a good idea on the condition of the engine to see if it was high mileage.
I didn't take the transmission to any shop for inspection. I was able to select all of the gears, it spun freely, stock clutch in great shape, no leaks,my axles slid right in. Nothing that would have made me THINK it was in bad shape.
I guess all I can do is build a pile of parts for the rebuild. Or do you have any other suggestions? Thank you for all of your help so far!
 
9

93celicaconv

Member
When driving, and when your engine is at a "relatively" high RPM and you let off the accelerator (to begin a coast), does your shifter pop out of any gear it was in at the start of the coast? Probably best to check this in each of the 5 forward gears to make sure you know. If it doesn't slip out of gear in any of the 5 forward gears, do it again and watch the shifter when you let off the accelerator pedal - just it jerk or move slightly towards the neutral position?

Knowing this gives a hint (but it is not definitive) about the condition of your hub gears.

Based on what you've stated so far, it is my opinion that your transmission synchros are badly worn.
 
L

lalojamesliz1

New member
93celicaconv":1c7fjx3q said:
When driving, and when your engine is at a "relatively" high RPM and you let off the accelerator (to begin a coast), does your shifter pop out of any gear it was in at the start of the coast? Probably best to check this in each of the 5 forward gears to make sure you know. If it doesn't slip out of gear in any of the 5 forward gears, do it again and watch the shifter when you let off the accelerator pedal - just it jerk or move slightly towards the neutral position?

Knowing this gives a hint (but it is not definitive) about the condition of your hub gears.

Based on what you've stated so far, it is my opinion that your transmission synchros are badly worn.
Click to expand...

:cry:
 
L

lalojamesliz1

New member
I'll start to build my parts for the trans rebuild for when it's time.

Anyone familiar with what's neccessary? Do all the bearings HAVE to be replaced or is just the synchros okay?
 
M

Magroo

New member
I'm not suggesting you do this, but i run a modified mix that a lot of subaru guys run since their transmission is very similar.

Even tho it's still difficult to get in to first sometimes, I have found that it shifts smoother through the rest of the gears.

1 quart redline heavy shockproof
1 quart penzoil syncromesh synthetic
Top it off with redline 75w90ns about 3 quarts
 
L

lalojamesliz1

New member
Magroo":28euow31 said:
I'm not suggesting you do this, but i run a modified mix that a lot of subaru guys run since their transmission is very similar.

Even tho it's still difficult to get in to first sometimes, I have found that it shifts smoother through the rest of the gears.

1 quart redline heavy shockproof
1 quart penzoil syncromesh synthetic
Top it off with redline 75w90ns about 3 quarts
Click to expand...

When its hard to put in first if the car is moving or standing still? I'm seeing it's normal for our transmissions to be hard to put in 1st when the car is moving
Are you running a e150f? That's the cocktail you run?
Thanks for sharing :)
 
9

93celicaconv

Member
I think your assessment regarding what is normal (hard downshifting into 1st with the car is moving) is only because the norm on these kinds of cars is that the synchros are generally worn down and few go to the major effort to repair (engine removal and all).

But to be brutally honest, it is not normal to have difficultly downshift (from any gear to any gear, unless maybe at highway speed and wanting to downshift from 5th to 1st). Synchros in good condition, with the correct trans oil (in these cars, that is a special oil), downshifting is pretty easy and normal. The 92-93 transaxles were built with some slight improvements to make the synchros more robust, but synchros on these still wore. Unfortunately, and quadruple case trans-axle that shares the same oil with hypoid gears and synchros has to a balanced oil that really isn't ideal for either, so synchros wore. Worse, if pure hypoid oil is used. And if only manual transmission synchromesh oil is used, bad for the hypoid gears.

That's why I would advise, for these particular type of cars, if the transaxle is out of the car, no matter how good the transaxle shifted before it was removed for whatever reason, have a transmission shop inspect it and plan for at least getting the synchro-rings replaced from a cost perspective.
 
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lalojamesliz1

New member
Anyone here try using Toyota 08885-02106 toyota gear oil super? It's a GL-5 oem oil. I think it works for the e150f but just don't know if it's good for the e154f
 
9

93celicaconv

Member
lalojamesliz1":f4hgkq2f said:
Anyone here try using Toyota 08885-02106 toyota gear oil super? It's a GL-5 oem oil. I think it works for the e150f but just don't know if it's good for the e154f
Click to expand...
That's the only product we use in the two ST185's we have in the family!

The Redline75W90NS is supposed to be similar for these types of transaxles also - I just haven't tried it as long on the OEM product is (or at least was) still available. The OEM product is a bit pricey, so if you go that route, go with the dealerships that sell it wholesale.
 
L

lalojamesliz1

New member
93celicaconv":1u0634c8 said:
lalojamesliz1":1u0634c8 said:
Anyone here try using Toyota 08885-02106 toyota gear oil super? It's a GL-5 oem oil. I think it works for the e150f but just don't know if it's good for the e154f
Click to expand...
That's the only product we use in the two ST185's we have in the family!

The Redline75W90NS is supposed to be similar for these types of transaxles also - I just haven't tried it as long on the OEM product is (or at least was) still available. The OEM product is a bit pricey, so if you go that route, go with the dealerships that sell it wholesale.
Click to expand...

Do you think it'll also work with the e154f? It should right?
 
9

93celicaconv

Member
I believe both the E150F and E154F are extremely similar, so the lubricant for the E150F applies equally well for the E154F.

Here is an interesting thread - it's old and it's long, but you mind find it useful. Lot's of subjective opinions within it, but if you find key points from those who researched, it should help you.

- viewtopic.php?f=43&t=19619
 
L

lalojamesliz1

New member
93celicaconv":iveu98f5 said:
I believe both the E150F and E154F are extremely similar, so the lubricant for the E150F applies equally well for the E154F.

Here is an interesting thread - it's old and it's long, but you mind find it useful. Lot's of subjective opinions within it, but if you find key points from those who researched, it should help you.

- viewtopic.php?f=43&t=19619
Click to expand...

I'm glad to hear it "should be okay"
I scored 6 liter cans for $110 :roll: yeah that's still alot but I hope it works out great.
I just went through that thread when I was searching about the Toyota super oil. Very informative like you say.
 
M

Magroo

New member
Did you ever check your "sugar cube"?


Check to see if its worn and just rotate it 90* if it is. This is what mine looked like before I rotated it.
 

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