Can anyone help, please? Timing issue. .

FC Zach

FC Zach

Active member
I think it's the way in which you ask things. . To me it condescending, like you're talking to an idiot that has no business touching their car. Asking for results/data is one thing but questioning on whether or not I did the simplest of tasks (and did it correctly) is another. . Answering you is exhausting and makes me regret even making the topic. Thanks to the others for the suggestions! Responding to a topic without asking a million questions is constructive.
 
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93celicaconv

Member
FC Zach":30ivl567 said:
I think it's the way in which you ask things. . To me it condescending, like you're talking to an idiot that has no business touching their car. Asking for results/data is one thing but questioning on whether or not I did the simplest of tasks (and did it correctly) is another. . Answering you is exhausting and makes me regret even making the topic. Thanks to the others for the suggestions! Responding to a topic without asking a million questions is constructive.
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OK, I understand. I work with data - then apply the physics/science to understand root causes. I'm very much to the point, not social. So I can understand in a forum with only written communication happening, the way this is taken. That was not my intent. My intent has and always will be to help. But my style in this type of communication type can be interpretted very differently. And I apologize for that, FC Zach. And since it is causing you to regret even initiating topics, it would be best that I step away from this forum. There are a lot of good folks that are more effective helping in this forum than I. So don't stop asking questions in seeking new learning's and knowledge. I won't be on here further to cause you frustration. I apologize for all that - I won't be bothering you again.
 
FC Zach

FC Zach

Active member
I found and confirmed the reason for my ECU not cooperating with me and not allowing me to set the ignition timing. . . Before getting to the point, let me first point out that when I originally connected the jumper wire to the desired terminals and confirming the connection by glancing at the flashing engine light, I immediately attempted to check/adjust timing. . The problem is, I never paid any attention to whether or not the CEL was a constant or coded flash.

Turns out, I actually had a code present and that just happened to be 41 (TPS) which explains why the car ran poorly and also why the timing couldn't be set. Don't do what I did by focusing on the light for only a few flashes and confuse it for a constant flash.

The other day, I confirmed the code by going through the test procedure for the sensor which proved it was defective. I received and installed the new part today, timing has been set, and all is well :)

Thanks for the input by all
 
A

autojumbled

New member
FC Zach":10hbpjrt said:
I found and confirmed the reason for my ECU not cooperating with me and not allowing me to set the ignition timing. . . Before getting to the point, let me first point out that when I originally connected the jumper wire to the desired terminals and confirming the connection by glancing at the flashing engine light, I immediately attempted to check/adjust timing. . The problem is, I never paid any attention to whether or not the CEL was a constant or coded flash.

Turns out, I actually had a code present and that just happened to be 41 (TPS) which explains why the car ran poorly and also why the timing couldn't be set. Don't do what I did by focusing on the light for only a few flashes and confuse it for a constant flash.

The other day, I confirmed the code by going through the test procedure for the sensor which proved it was defective. I received and installed the new part today, timing has been set, and all is well :)

Thanks for the input by all
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Would you mind running me through how you set the timing, please?
I've just done a head rebuild and cam belt change (ST185 Rev2 engine). Everything has gone back together and it runs great but I've done no timing setting/checking.
Do I need a gun etc? How do you actually do it?! :shrug:
 
FC Zach

FC Zach

Active member
I was speaking of "ignition" timing, if that's what you you want to check then yes, you'll need an inductive timing light. Start by connecting TE1 and E1 together with a test connector and while the engine is running, check you timing marks (pulley/lower cover) and adjust if necessary.
 
A

autojumbled

New member
FC Zach":1qa7544d said:
I was speaking of "ignition" timing, if that's what you you want to check then yes, you'll need an inductive timing light. Start by connecting TE1 and E1 together with a test connector and while the engine is running, check you timing marks (pulley/lower cover) and adjust if necessary.
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And adjust to 10 BTDC?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
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BlackCat13

New member
93celicaconv":1cp8wezv said:
Previously, when you bridged E1 & TE1, did your check engine light flash consistently?

If no, then your bridging process failed, and you never actually grounded TE1 properly.
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I tried checking my CEL in my CS and nothing happened, what do you mean by properly grounding TE1?
 
S

sefiroxx

New member
TE1 is the diagnostic wire within the diagnostic port and on the ecu harness. When you connect it to ground, the ecu sees the current draw and goes into diagnostic mode. You can ground it by connecting it to e1 or to something on the car that is ground (bare metal)
 
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BlackCat13

New member
sefiroxx":3t681sbw said:
TE1 is the diagnostic wire within the diagnostic port and on the ecu harness. When you connect it to ground, the ecu sees the current draw and goes into diagnostic mode. You can ground it by connecting it to e1 or to something on the car that is ground (bare metal)
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Cool I'll try that didnt know that it was that simple
 
A

alltracman78

Active member
sefiroxx":3q50ot7s said:
TE1 is the diagnostic wire within the diagnostic port and on the ecu harness. When you connect it to ground, the ecu sees the current draw and goes into diagnostic mode. You can ground it by connecting it to e1 or to something on the car that is ground (bare metal)
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It goes into check mode, not diagnostic mode. :) The ECU is always in a "normal" diagnostic mode while it's on.
I only say this because you can put the ECU into a special diagnostic mode (test mode), by jumping TE2 (yes 2, not 1) and E1.
Only on post revision and up ECUs (92 ^ for US, approx Sep 91 ^ on overseas cars, like the CS/RC). Earlier ECUs don't have this.

Check mode simply locks ignition timing and grounds the CEL circuit ( pin W ) to display any codes.

When you ground TE2 and drive the car it puts the ECU into a more sensitive diagnostic mode that helps to detect intermittent problems. Kind of like an early OBDII system.

Side note; IIRC the pins from the O2 sensor are a perfect fit for the DIAG port in the engine. You'll have to remove them from the connector and cut them so you can join 2 for a jumper. Then you have a jumper with nice solid pins that fit correctly into the DIAG port. Beats a paper clip IMO. :)
 
underscore

underscore

Well-known member
I assume you mean the pins for a 4 wire O2 sensor? I'd love to have a proper jumper, the couple of times I had to use a paperclip to jump the fuel pump I wasn't entirely confident it wouldn't start a fire.
 
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alltracman78

Active member
Yup, cut the wires at the sensor so you have decent length to work with ( you can always cut them shorter) and remove them from the connector.
IIRC Pretty much any Toyota O2 or A:F sensor has the same pins.

You can also use these to check/clear ABS/SRS/ect as well, though you need to make a slightly more complicated setup.

A lot of the connectors on our cars use these pins.

I used some of these to make jumper harnesses for my ST205 engine so I could run my ST185 harness without cutting it.
 
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sefiroxx

New member
alltracman78":3o8fohoz said:
It goes into check mode, not diagnostic mode. :) The ECU is always in a "normal" diagnostic mode while it's on.
I only say this because you can put the ECU into a special diagnostic mode (test mode), by jumping TE2 (yes 2, not 1) and E1.
Only on post revision and up ECUs (92 ^ for US, approx Sep 91 ^ on overseas cars, like the CS/RC). Earlier ECUs don't have this.
Click to expand...

Oops, good catch. I'm running a 91.
 
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