alltracman78":1jijm2g0 said:
Don't cut the wire.
You can remove the connector and install the old one on the new sensor.
underscore":1jijm2g0 said:
It's hard to see on my phone, are the actual pins inside the plug the same? If so you might be able to just depin them both and swap the plastic plug over to the new one.
Ok so I was going to post "how do I disassemble that?" and post
https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf mention it has a 10892 stamped on it (which is shown on page 427, and that's discontinued
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toy ... 85L-BLMVZA) blah blah blah.
Spoiler alert, the oxygen sensor is in and it's functioning but I'm going to schedule an appointment with a shop that specializes in emissions and take a test that day, more info below.
Oh and here's what appears to be a diagram of the plug, I tried actually pushing in the part circled before finding this picture (I think I put my little screwdriver in between the metal part and that tab not the other way around) and moving the entire plug down without luck, I was trying to be as careful as possible so I was thinking "if I break this darn thing I'm going to have a really bad time."
So I took the new sensor and made sure it was going to work, I took some wire I had on hand and did this:
I started the car with the multimeter and jumper connected and started holding down the throttle at 2,500 RPM. This time I got out my stopwatch and watched for 2 minutes. About a 1m45s in I was about to give up and I see the multimeter spring up, then down, then start pulsing as described in the repair manual! Wooooo! So I stepped out of the car to inspect my work and the car tried to stall itself after a few seconds. I run back over to the cabin and check the tach and it was seriously trying to idle at 400 RPM (I only fixed the tachometer in July or something but even without reading the number I think it's always idled at about 1,100 RPM since having the car) so I gave it some throttle to help it out but it went back down to 400 or 600 or something (and the exhaust smelled super awful). Shutting off the car and turning it back on didn't fix the problem so I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery for a few minutes.
After that the car started, the multimeter pulsed as before and it idled at 800-900. Great! I took the sensor back off and planned to take the old one apart. I should note here even though I didn't wait the full 2 minutes before calling the old sensor dead the fact the car was adjusting the idle for the first time proved to me the old sensor was kaput.
By the way here's a size comparison if anyone wants it:
I completely mutilated the new plug (because I have no use for it) and exposed this little clamp part.
I noticed after removing the orange dust cover rubber thing from the plug I noticed I had likely exposed the copper from the old wire, so I twisted it a bunch and exposed the clamp thingee that held the wire. I added some marine grade heatshrink tubing to the new wire (it has adhesive built in, shoutout to BosnianBill's YouTube channel for that protip) and continued
I crimped the plug from the new sensor down to a smaller size and shoved it into the spot previously occupied by the old sensor's wire, after multiple attempts (and twisting) I got the new wire to seem like it would reasonably stay put, I have a kinda small pair of needlenose pliers so I was able to get into the plug and clamp down on the plug tighter.
So at the end of the day I'm relying on an OK connection into that plug and the glue on the heatshrink to keep the whole thing together and not move. The plug is far enough away from a massive heat source I would think it should be fine but I'm honestly not super sure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaSVkd4ejVw
Adding anti-seize
Torqueing to 44 NM
Time to test! I know the sensor works but of course I needed to see if my plug did. Spoiler, 10 pulses in 10 seconds! Beats the 8 pulse minimum!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w252mpihxrA
My pro zip tie work. Don't worry, I checked for pulses after doing this. All good!
So one closing thought on this reply, I haven't driven the car after making this change so
perhaps the exhaust smell will be less apparent after that but since it still smells a bit I'm going to schedule something the day I do the emissions test with a shop that specializes in emissions work. I'm already going to be paying $75 in emissions tests but if there is a problem and it's addressed within 10 days of the last test I don't have to pay for the test again. If I pass I'll cancel the appointment.
I'm out of time for the moment but I'll provide pictures of changing a tube from the Turbo to the chargecooler and the coupler between the chargecooler and the throttle body, I replaced those right before this to prevent the engine from running lean. More info on that soon.