90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

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Re: 90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

Postby supra-raleigh » Tue Jul 19, 2022 2:17 am

Oh yeah, where is the fuel filter?

I hope I don't have to remove a bunch of stuff to get to it.
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Re: 90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

Postby Roreri » Tue Jul 19, 2022 2:21 am

You really got after this--hat's off to you! I guess you found a solution to where it's sitting vis a vis your wall project?

The fuel filter is up front, on the driver's side (for US allTracs) relatively near the firewall. You don't have to remove a bunch of stuff, but I gave up trying to get the bottom nut loose because I couldn't get leverage on it and ended up having a mechanic do it.
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1992 Toyota Celica

Re: 90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

Postby 93celicaconv » Tue Jul 19, 2022 10:46 am

Roreri wrote:The fuel filter is up front, on the driver's side (for US allTracs) relatively near the firewall. You don't have to remove a bunch of stuff, but I gave up trying to get the bottom nut loose because I couldn't get leverage on it and ended up having a mechanic do it.

That's right. If you remove the left front wheel, you will be able to see the fuel line going up to the bottom of the fuel filter. Changed two of those this spring - with a mechanic's help. That flare fitting design was a poor one for that application by Toyota. When the nut is tightened originally, the compression causes it to lock onto the tube - and time has a way to make the lock far more secure. If not handled very carefully, the fuel line can easily be damaged. So be careful, and get the right tools. Now would be a good time to change that fuel filter, or maybe after you have the rear tank stuff completed and ran the engine for a few miles (so that the debris knocked loose in the fuel lines and inside the tank tubes/hoses can get into the old filter rather than your new one).
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Re: 90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

Postby supra-raleigh » Wed Jul 20, 2022 1:34 pm

Well, we are working around the All-Trac while rebuilding that retaining wall. The car can at least be rolled in neutral since I was able to free the sticky / sticking / stuck clutch by pumping the clutch pedal 100+ times to get pedal pressure, then with an engaged (not fully) e-brake, in 1st gear and the clutch petal to the floor, I cranked the motor with a couple of starter bumps and the clutch broke free.

I think that it may be wise to NOT fully engage the e-brake while doing this because as you crank the car, the e-brake will slip a little bit which is alot better than breaking a tooth in the flyweel or starter.

Otherwise, with the clutch sticking, if the car were to be rolled, the whole drive train would also be rolling. This happened on my father's 64 Corvair (twice). And, also on my brother's 64 Corvair Spyder while the tow truck was pulling it, I had the shifter set to neutral but with the clutch stuck it was as if was in gear.

Another TOP TIP to all;

If you have to let your car sit for more than, say around 6 months or so, at least pump the clutch pedal in order to prevent the clutch from sticking. The longer the car sits, the harder it becomes to "unstick" the clutch. If someone does this, make sure there is room in front of the car because it may lurch forward the same way it would if you try to start the car in gear without the clutch pedal to the floor.
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Re: 90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

Postby supra-raleigh » Wed Jul 20, 2022 1:51 pm

Update.

I removed the fuel pump from the tank. There is still much corrosion on the pump bracket which I will clean up and spray with WD-40 until reinstallation.

Here is where I have some issues;

All three wires that connect to the fuel pump are detached. This probably happened during the rinsing of the tank as I was using a trigger/sprayer with the garden hose and that was likely to much pressure.

But, those wires were probably compromised anyway and new wires likely would have withstood such water pressure.

I have to now spice in new wires with eyelets so that they may be able to properly connect to the new fuel pump.

1. What guage wires should I use?
2. Are there some wires that already come with eyelets?
3. To prevent corrosion, do the wires and the insulation on the wires as well as the metal eyelets have to be rated for fuel usage?
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Re: 90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

Postby simple » Wed Jul 20, 2022 3:33 pm

I would grab a donor fuel pump wire harness off a junkyard car. Then the slice happens inside the car and water/fuel proofing isn't such an issue.

Another Toyota of the same era should work. I grab stuff off Corolla, RAV4, Celica, etc all the time.
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Re: 90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

Postby supra-raleigh » Wed Jul 20, 2022 7:17 pm

I'm looking for a kit like this;


One terminal is 7mm and the other is 8mm I think.
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Re: 90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

Postby 93celicaconv » Wed Jul 20, 2022 8:24 pm

I'll attach some pictures of a fuel pump assembly on a bracket involving an AT180 / ST184 (these utilize the same fuel pump bracket & pump assemblies).

Pic 9473A shows the wiring for the fuel level sender and for the low fuel warning lamp sender. The only wire in this picture involving the fuel pump is the black wire off on the left side.
IMG_9473A.jpg


Pic 9474A shows a better view of the fuel pump black wire. This is a ground wire. Note that while the end on the fuel pump has the eyelet with a nut & lock washer securing it, the opposite end that is attached to the bracket is attached with a tamper-proof screw (it looks like it is a rivet, but it has threads on the opposite side).
IMG_9474A.jpg


Pic 9475A shows the fuel pump +12V source power wire (sort of a navy-blue picture - wire is in front of the pump hose that has two bands on it). Except for the wire color, this wire is secured in exactly the same way as the ground wire.
IMG_9475A.jpg


If you need to replace both the ground and the +12V power wire on your bracket assembly, make darn sure your screws will never come loose. You sure don't want to have a loose connection that gets locally hot, or worse, arcs when in service. I know gasoline can't ignite if the ignition source is not surrounded by oxygen, but if the fuel level is below a loose wire connection, and if the car is run on a very hot day, then brought into a garage and the air temperature cools substantially, the tank will vent in outside air (so it doesn't collapse) which will have oxygen in it. Hence, be very careful to ensure the wire end fasteners never come loose.
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Re: 90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

Postby supra-raleigh » Thu Jul 21, 2022 4:26 am

Thanks for the great tips. However, those pictures look like the fuel pump I recently removed from my 1991 Celica ST. The All-Trac fuel pump bracket assembly is not the same as the ST. The All-Trac also has the fuel level sender on a separate assembly.
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Re: 90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

Postby simple » Thu Jul 21, 2022 4:00 pm

simple wrote:I would grab a donor fuel pump wire harness off a junkyard car. Then the slice happens inside the car and water/fuel proofing isn't such an issue.

Another Toyota of the same era should work. I grab stuff off Corolla, RAV4, Celica, etc all the time.
Ah I see you are looking for the wires on the fuel pump assembly that are unique to the car. My mistake I forgot there is a connection at the top of the fuel pump assy.
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90 All-Trac - Low Fuel Level Sensor Replacement Options

Postby supra-raleigh » Wed Aug 03, 2022 12:15 am

Update.

I removed the fuel level sender unit and noticed that the low fuel level sensor on the bottom of the second arm is missing. Is this part still available for sale? Does anyone know if another sensor from some other Toyota/Lexus will work?
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Re: 90 All-Trac Check Engine Light Not Coming On..No Start

Postby supra-raleigh » Thu Aug 04, 2022 8:04 am

I got a fuel level sending unit on Ebay that was for a 1998-2002 Toyota Corolla. It looks as if I can get the low fuel sensor that comes with it to work with some cutting and splicing.
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