Re-torque ARP head studs?

pardon for being a bit off subject, but how did you do yours and how is it working out? how many miles on since the install? im just curious (i dont mean to flame you) because nobody ever told me that it needed to be a bit semi-rough.

I supplied my machine shop with the instructions to prep with an RA of 32 or 64; depending on whether they were going to use a stone cutter or grinder.

The head gasket sealed fine. I haven't had any problems with it since the installation. However, I spun a rod bearing and havn't driven the car since late May.

I cannot recall the mileage since the installation of the hg. I would guess and say between 2-4k. Sorry I cannot be more precise. The car is currently 2200+ miles away and I'm not even sure the current mileage.

I know you don't mean to flame; and you're not. I posted this information because I didn't want anyone to have problems with the TTE head gasket because I believe it's a great, ecomonical mls hg. Right up there with the HKS for a $100 less.

There were reports of some (LB/Jefferey from Extremeboost.com) not having luck with the TTE gasket and calling it crap. He didn't follow the proper sealing instructions which require a semi-rough surface. RA 32 or 64 depending on the tool used.

Peace.

illGT4":ox7xnwcc said:

Going back to the original post;

users reported re-torqueing the arp studs atleast once a year. Some even said every 6 months or 10k miles.

This was talked about on the Yahoo lists and also the old board.

Click to expand...

And here is what Chris K. , a well known 3S-GTE builder and fellow board member believes:

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Proper Way to Torque ARP Fasteners.
One of the things to overcome with the torque down of fasteners is the friction factor. Friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torque and loosened, this value gets smaller. The smaller the friction factor the more accurate your torque. It is therefore important to get the friction factor as low as possible.

When using ARP lubricants in conjunction with ARP fasteners, the general rule is to perform the torque down procedure at least 5 times upon first installation.

Do it this way and you will never have a problem.

As always, have fun.
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Best Regards,

yea, there were a few people who did not install the TTE correctly, while others were preaching to get a mirror finish. during that time i decided to go with the TTE because the HKS was a bit too expensive, and the TRD was too mild for me. i opted for the mirror finish because everybodys who had failed either said they didnt specify the finish on the head or they just took it to some shop and paid $25 for a reg job on it. I still remember that there were many people doubting MHGs altogether, and saying "stick with the stock paper hg". :shrug:

anyhow... i love the TTE headgasket + ARP studs combo. i know it's not crap because ive ran some pretty high boost, done some crazy cam/ignition timings, have had some serious detonation, and even overheated my engine a few times when i blew rad hoses. still holds like a champ. no complaints here.

I recently read from a good source that the HKS, TTE, and TRD head gaskets are all made from the same place. Just relabeld for resale..

Any I was also doing some more research on the semi-rough and mirror finish debate.

Turns out a mirror finish will work just fine.

So.. who knows. Good luck to you!

gtfourdreams":1l2xafr7 said:

anyhow... i love the TTE headgasket + ARP studs combo. i know it's not crap because ive ran some pretty high boost, done some crazy cam/ignition timings, have had some serious detonation, and even overheated my engine a few times when i blew rad hoses. still holds like a champ. no complaints here.

Click to expand...

Been there, done that..

It still holds fine.