FMIC Clocking Turbo Write Up

tw2

New member
I don't have AC so I think they are bolted to the "ledge" where the AC radiator sat. You can see the bolts on the under car pic on the previous page. The bottom mounts only bolt in one place each. The top mounts span across the top of the IC and mount in 4 places. I can take photo's if you like?

Basically it is very very overkill. You could probably pick the car up by the intercooler.
 

WarTowels

Active member
Photo's would be great. I can't decide if I want to weld on custom brackets, or weld on some stacked nuts and use long bolts or thread rod.

-Towels
 

tw2

New member
Here you go. These are the only photo's on my computer which slow it at all. My IC had M8x1.5 tabs to screw into so I used some threaded rod. You can see the bolts for the top mounts, the other ends are in the metal section behind where the carbon fibre strip sits above the bumper. There are holes in the top of it where you can fit bolts into the lower part.
FMICMounts.jpg


FMICmount2.jpg

This crappy pic you can just see the lower mount on the far right.

FMICmount3.jpg


FMICmount4.jpg


FMICmount5.jpg
 

BriinumsBo

New member
does the turbo rotate click-wise or counter clockwise? does the radiator or tranny get in the way? i dont want to take radiator out :/
 

tw2

New member
It rotates which ever way you want. From what I can remember you cannot rotate it down without removing the radiator- its 2 clips, 2 hoses, 2x 12mm bolts and its out, not hard. I think I have removed the radiator 8 times, takes about 10 minutes.
 

BriinumsBo

New member
can you rotate it clockwise on the gearbox side also?? that way you wouldnt have to remove the radiator (if the turbo outlet touches it when rotating)..

i dont really want to drain the coolant :p
 

tubasteve

New member
what about poping the housing off...putting at the angle, put some oil on the huge 'o-ring' and put her back together? just an idea....
 

CelicaSoul

New member
After doing this I found a tiny pin that is meant to hold the housing in the stock position. I had to remove the housing, pull the pin, and then clock it. Otherwise the housing will not sit flush and will leak, and may damage the compressor turbine. You have to pull off the housing in order to get to the pin, its no big deal as long as your careful not to chip the compressor fins. This was all on a new CT27, so older turbos may be missing the pin totally.
 

tubasteve

New member
I did too, but actually filed a little notch like on the other side so I could keep the pin under boost I was worried it might rotate and that was to keep it in one spot.
 

tubasteve

New member
yes, but to rotate the "water cooled" part of the turbo comes off thus u leak a little and id atleast take the top hose off as well
 

BriinumsBo

New member
tubasteve":2iu73v09 said:
yes, but to rotate the "water cooled" part of the turbo comes off thus u leak a little and id atleast take the top hose off as well

so it would be taking off the water hoses first, clamp them, then take off compressor housing, rotate it, put back, then put hoses back or refabricate them if needed?
 

tubasteve

New member
yes, but you will still leak a little, im also doing a water pump timing belt right now so a little leak of coolant isnt bad in my case.
 

tw2

New member
Drain and remove the radiator, it will not take more than 15 minutes. Even if you can still rotate the turbo with it in, it simply isn't worth the risk of damaging it. Nothing on the alltrac is easy to do but it is easy to mess it up.
 

Dups90gt

New member
sorry to ask on such an old thread but I was wondering how tight the waste gate rod is suppose to be when you hook it up to the arm and how much is the flapper suppose to open when the WG pushed it open? I just clocked mine and made a brace but i think its a bit off, first attempt was too tight and locked my flapper shut, took it apart again and now I think its not tight enough or the flapper isn't opening up enough, not pulling hard like it was when I first installed it. running a 3rd gen ct26 (ct2b) whats the stock psi rating of the 20b rated at? 10 psi?
 

tw2

New member
Adjust it by placing washers in between the bracket you made and the compressor housing. If you need less tension then you will have to adjust the bracket itself.

If you unbolt the actuator and pull the wastegate shut gently by hand then this is the approximate position you want to actuator to be in. I then made it 2-3mm tighter so it was definitely sealing with the force of the spring. You can test it works by using a large syringe or bicycle pump to connect to the actuator vacuum line to make sure it opens correctly with boost. Don't know rating, you will find out though. I suspect it is somewhere around 10-12psi.

Hope that all made sense.
 

Dups90gt

New member
thanks! when you did your first bracket and it was loose did you notice that it didnt pull very hard? i think mine is not closing properly nor is it opening properly. the actuator arm is at a strange angle where it rides up against the housing causing it to jam partially open at boost and partially closed when open causing boost spike. I have to build a new bracket with maybe an adjustable arm, i dont have the 3rd mount like on the ct26 I have a 20b so only 2 mount points at the back when clocked. anyone know where I can get adjustable part to for the wastegate actuator arm?[/quote]
 
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