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Sun Apr 26, 2009 6:19 pm
Wow, I don't remember that at all. Oh well good thing I dumped the ct26 ages ago.
Mon Apr 27, 2009 3:39 am
lol, i went with the mod. ct-26 due to gay cops!!! though the ref loves me
Tue Apr 28, 2009 10:44 pm
so.. it should be possible to just take off the housing, rotate and put back without taking out the radiator, right?
Wed Apr 29, 2009 2:24 am
yes, but to rotate the "water cooled" part of the turbo comes off thus u leak a little and id atleast take the top hose off as well
Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:35 am
tubasteve wrote:yes, but to rotate the "water cooled" part of the turbo comes off thus u leak a little and id atleast take the top hose off as well
so it would be taking off the water hoses first, clamp them, then take off compressor housing, rotate it, put back, then put hoses back or refabricate them if needed?
Wed Apr 29, 2009 2:44 pm
yes, but you will still leak a little, im also doing a water pump timing belt right now so a little leak of coolant isnt bad in my case.
Wed Apr 29, 2009 6:18 pm
Drain and remove the radiator, it will not take more than 15 minutes. Even if you can still rotate the turbo with it in, it simply isn't worth the risk of damaging it. Nothing on the alltrac is easy to do but it is easy to mess it up.
Tue Sep 15, 2009 9:05 pm
sorry to ask on such an old thread but I was wondering how tight the waste gate rod is suppose to be when you hook it up to the arm and how much is the flapper suppose to open when the WG pushed it open? I just clocked mine and made a brace but i think its a bit off, first attempt was too tight and locked my flapper shut, took it apart again and now I think its not tight enough or the flapper isn't opening up enough, not pulling hard like it was when I first installed it. running a 3rd gen ct26 (ct2b) whats the stock psi rating of the 20b rated at? 10 psi?
Wed Sep 16, 2009 6:09 am
Adjust it by placing washers in between the bracket you made and the compressor housing. If you need less tension then you will have to adjust the bracket itself.
If you unbolt the actuator and pull the wastegate shut gently by hand then this is the approximate position you want to actuator to be in. I then made it 2-3mm tighter so it was definitely sealing with the force of the spring. You can test it works by using a large syringe or bicycle pump to connect to the actuator vacuum line to make sure it opens correctly with boost. Don't know rating, you will find out though. I suspect it is somewhere around 10-12psi.
Hope that all made sense.
Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:01 am
thanks! when you did your first bracket and it was loose did you notice that it didnt pull very hard? i think mine is not closing properly nor is it opening properly. the actuator arm is at a strange angle where it rides up against the housing causing it to jam partially open at boost and partially closed when open causing boost spike. I have to build a new bracket with maybe an adjustable arm, i dont have the 3rd mount like on the ct26 I have a 20b so only 2 mount points at the back when clocked. anyone know where I can get adjustable part to for the wastegate actuator arm?[/quote]
Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:50 am
You should be able to cut the end of your wastegate arm and use a die to thread it to 1/4-28 ( I haven't tried this on a ct26 so make sure the rod is thick enough to actually thread it at 1/4 inch. Then you should be able to screw on one of these valve rod ends and be good to go. Depending on the angle the wastegate is sitting at you may need to grind some of the thicker base of the rod end.
I did this on my first gt30 setup and it worked well. You will need to measure the diameter of the nub on the wastegate itself to make sure the rod end will fit around it. If there isn't a 1/4 inch rod end that fits you'll have to step up to a 3/8 and use another adapter to go from 3/8 to 1/4.
These are the two part numbers I ordered. But keep in mind this was an hks actuator on a gt30 turbo so make sure you get the right parts for your application.
Thu Sep 17, 2009 7:13 am
Yes I think I did have a bit of a low boost issue when getting the tension right but it was an easy fix. Sounds like you need to make a new bracket and it may be difficult without that 3rd bolt hole. Might need to be more of a C shape rather than the straight piece I used. I recommend 3mm+ steel anyway. You might need to post a pic if you wanted help with bracket design.
Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:22 pm
Ok so I was adjusting the bracket and got to thinking, I wish I could adjust the wastegate arm without having to pull the brace off and the C clip pin every time so I searched for something adjustable on the fly and found this at Home Depot.
It had 2 loops at the end but I straightened and cut them down also bent them to the bends in the wastegate arm. like so.
This would allow me to turn the adjuster and it would expand and contract without me having to pull my wastegate off and then lock it in place with the lock screw. I flattened the ends so I could drill holes when I cut the wastegate arm and then drill holes thru both bracket and wastegate arm then screw them together then incase the cut parts in fiberglass so they wont come apart. (I dont have access to a welder)
The screw on the other end has a reverse thread so it expands and tightens as you turn it)
What do you think? Ill test it and let you know if I blow up or not.
Mon Nov 02, 2009 5:16 am
Give it a go I guess. I only had to adjust my WG twice and it was perfect. I'm not sure cutting it up is going to be a good idea reliability wise long term.
Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:15 pm
I was thinking the same thing .. Lucky i have 2 of them one off the 26 and 1 off a 20B im not sure if theres a difference between the 2?
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