Oem radio harness

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Re: Oem radio harness

Postby superboonan » Sun Oct 28, 2018 8:43 pm

IMG_20181028_174236.jpg
the connectors colours
Might as well post this here incase it helps someone else
the cable you sent fits my radio very well but the colours doesn't ad up to mine so I have to find a colour diagram for my radio. I found a wiring diagram for my radio but without colours.
Atleast I should have all the stuff I need, now I only how to figure out how to wire it and then I can start making the bluetooth adapter :D
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Attachments
wiring-diagram-for-fujitsu-ten-car-stereo-best-contemporary-fujitsu-ten-wiring-diagram-ideas-electrical-of-wiring-diagram-for-fujitsu-ten-car-stereo-768x666.jpg
IMG_20181028_173937.png
how the previous owner left the harness
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Re: Oem radio harness

Postby 93celicaconv » Sun Oct 28, 2018 11:56 pm

I sent you a 90-91 ST185 wire color chart with the pigtail I sent you. You should use that color chart to match up to your existing car wiring harness that has the connector missing to understand what pin numbers on the connector match up, then wire up the pigtail by the pin numbers (regardless of the color of the wires coming out of the pigtail). It should be straight forward. I looked at my ST185 and the color chart matched up what the radio connections were perfectly.

What are you feeling you are missing?
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Re: Oem radio harness

Postby superboonan » Mon Oct 29, 2018 7:12 am

93celicaconv wrote:I sent you a 90-91 ST185 wire color chart with the pigtail I sent you. You should use that color chart to match up to your existing car wiring harness that has the connector missing to understand what pin numbers on the connector match up, then wire up the pigtail by the pin numbers (regardless of the color of the wires coming out of the pigtail). It should be straight forward. I looked at my ST185 and the color chart matched up what the radio connections were perfectly.

What are you feeling you are missing?


Hi I didn't notice before now that the diagram you sent matches my old harness I miss understood and thought it matched the colours of the pigtail without checking it sorry.
I'm not located where my car is now so it will take a while before I get to wire it but I took the radio and harness with me so I can see if it still works with my adjustable powersuply.
And see if I can get it unlocked (If it is?)
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Re: Oem radio harness

Postby superboonan » Mon Oct 29, 2018 9:59 am

I got it working with my powersupply but I can get any bruise or other sound out from it to test it.
I tried connecting a small speaker to the R-R and R-L but it was completely silent
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Re: Oem radio harness

Postby 93celicaconv » Mon Oct 29, 2018 10:50 am

superboonan wrote:I got it working with my powersupply but I can get any bruise or other sound out from it to test it.
I tried connecting a small speaker to the R-R and R-L but it was completely silent


You won't get sound out of your radio. It has no amp. The 14-pin connector on your radio is sourced from an external amp. All your radio is capable of is sending audio impulses to the amp. The amp provides the power to the signals and sends that power to the speakers.

Many radios have amps. Such radios have aluminum fins (heat sinks) along the sides and/or backs of the radios. Radios with internal amps do not use 14-pin connectors - they use 2 separate connectors (one for power in/out of the radio, and one for power to the speakers).

I think we talked about yours having an external amp earlier - and you said your system does have an external amp, right?
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Re: Oem radio harness

Postby superboonan » Mon Oct 29, 2018 11:22 am

93celicaconv wrote:
superboonan wrote:I got it working with my powersupply but I can get any bruise or other sound out from it to test it.
I tried connecting a small speaker to the R-R and R-L but it was completely silent


You won't get sound out of your radio. It has no amp. The 14-pin connector on your radio is sourced from an external amp. All your radio is capable of is sending audio impulses to the amp. The amp provides the power to the signals and sends that power to the speakers.

Many radios have amps. Such radios have aluminum fins (heat sinks) along the sides and/or backs of the radios. Radios with internal amps do not use 14-pin connectors - they use 2 separate connectors (one for power in/out of the radio, and one for power to the speakers).

I think we talked about yours having an external amp earlier - and you said your system does have an external amp, right?


That was what I afraid of, yes it does have an external amp but i tought it could make a loud enough signal to hear trough a small ish speaker. Is there any way to hear it without the amp? like wiring some earbuds or something to it
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Re: Oem radio harness

Postby 93celicaconv » Mon Oct 29, 2018 1:46 pm

The head unit would need some kind of amp to provide "current" to the speaker wires to drive a speaker then. These factory units with external amps don't work that way. The head units provide "line out" voltage signals to the amp's "pre-amp", which decodes the signals frequencies, tone, volume, etc. The amp's internal pre-amp then sends a low power current reference to the power side, which provides the current/frequency necessary to drive speakers. A line-out signal from the head unit on these models can't drive a speaker directly. That includes ear buds. Not the same output signals at all.

I have a small amp that would interface with your head unit with the 14-pin connector. You would have to find pig tails for the power feed and speaker output power to this amp so you can bring power to the amp and connect a speaker or two to it remotely (not involving your car). A color coded wiring chart for those pig tails would be needed so you know how to make your 12VDC & speaker connections. I could provide this for you, but I won't have time anytime soon. Best if you test your head unit with the car's wiring harness completed (new pig tail to old harness) if you want to check sound quality.
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Re: Oem radio harness

Postby superboonan » Mon Oct 29, 2018 1:54 pm

93celicaconv wrote:The head unit would need some kind of amp to provide "current" to the speaker wires to drive a speaker then. These factory units with external amps don't work that way. The head units provide "line out" voltage signals to the amp's "pre-amp", which decodes the signals frequencies, tone, volume, etc. The amp's internal pre-amp then sends a low power current reference to the power side, which provides the current/frequency necessary to drive speakers. A line-out signal from the head unit on these models can't drive a speaker directly. That includes ear buds. Not the same output signals at all.

I have a small amp that would interface with your head unit with the 14-pin connector. You would have to find pig tails for the power feed and speaker output power to this amp so you can bring power to the amp and connect a speaker or two to it remotely (not involving your car). A color coded wiring chart for those pig tails would be needed so you know how to make your 12VDC & speaker connections. I could provide this for you, but I won't have time anytime soon. Best if you test your head unit with the car's wiring harness completed (new pig tail to old harness) if you want to check sound quality.


Ok thank you for the information I can manage without testing the sound, it would just have been easier to be sure my bluetooth adapter works but i'll guess I'll find out when i wire it up :D
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