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Road race, Auto X, or the Drag Strip
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Tue Mar 03, 2009 1:28 am

I hope it works better for you. I remember when Griffin installed his Tein SS. He had some nice tires (a little wider than yours), light wheels and he found a huge an improvement in his handling just by going to a stock alignment.

I think your specs sound good though. What are you using to adjust your rear camber or is that the specs you have from it being lowered.
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Wed Mar 04, 2009 12:57 am

Actually I was trying to bring back the rear to -.5 but the lack of adjustability in the rear left me at -1.3. I may do something about that but I will have to run with what it is on the track and see how it feels before I spend time and money to modify the rear. I'll let you know what the car is doing at this set up as soon as I run.

Wed Mar 04, 2009 1:32 am

You can do camber bolts for the rear. I am switching to a st205 rear setep and plan on modifying the lower arm to adjust camber.

Here is a pic of a st205 that uses a modified 185 lower arm. The stamped section was cut and a new bar was welded in place.


Wed Mar 04, 2009 3:06 pm

Wow, that would be interesting. I wonder what type of tubing he used as it would need to be pretty strong I am guessing. Where does the Heim joint go?

Wed Mar 04, 2009 3:21 pm

I am not sure what tubing he used. I know he went with something that had a thicker wall than the 205 arms. I have some st205 ones I was going to cut, and fill a with a slug then thread them for adjustment.

Wed Mar 04, 2009 7:32 pm

"were"? Did you change your mind or come up with something new? Also, I have been considering using the LS430 Calipers front and rear to upgrade the brakes. Is this anything you've looked at before? I know that you've been searching for an option.

Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:33 pm

I did not put too much into it. I think you need a larger master cylinder for those calipers though. I think the MC bore might be closer to that of a supra.

I am likely going to sell my 205 calipers. I am thinking wilwoods up front and I think I might be fine with the stock rear for a while.

When you change your camber in the front have you figured out what the average adjustment value of each notch is on the tein camber plates?

Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:26 pm

I didn't keep an eye on the top markings but I should be able to caliculate it out from looking at the original placement. I probably wouldn't place too much trust into it. I'll let you know when I get out to look at it.

Sat Mar 07, 2009 1:47 pm

CMS-GT4 wrote:When I would autox, I think I ran 8 clicks from hardest in the front and 10 in the rear. If I remember correctly.

And I didn't. I ran more in the range of 6 clicks in the front and 8-9 in the rear from the hardest setting.

Tue Mar 10, 2009 4:37 pm

Do you still have your Tein Japanese manual? I am thinking about getting the page with the shock dyno info translated.

Tue Mar 10, 2009 4:52 pm

Hey sorry about not getting the info on the strut tops yet, I just haven't had the time to open up my hood. As far as the manual, I should have it filed away somewhere... Let me look! :lol: I am Japanese by the way.

Tue Mar 10, 2009 4:55 pm

Well here is the page, in case you do not find it. :smokes:

BTW: My front spring parts number is not on this sheet. I assume that my fronts are the 10kg since they have 100 as the first part of the part number, even though I specified the place I ordered from to upgrade me to the 12kg fronts. (It was a bad experience ordering my Teins, and even Roo offered to go pay them a visit. It was a guy running a web store out of his house as it turned out.)


Wed Mar 11, 2009 5:33 pm

I couldn't find my booklet but I do have the PDF of the whole manual. What did you want to know? From the markings on your manual it looks like you have 10 front 7 rear. How's the balance?

Wed Mar 11, 2009 5:40 pm

Balance is good, though it can be a bit harsh on public roads.

I am mostly curious about the text by the dynos. I am sort of hoping that there is more details about the graphs.

Mon Mar 16, 2009 3:33 pm

I finally got a chance to look at my markings and it is roughly 0.5 degrees per marking on mine. It is not exactly so but close to. Good luck. You would still need to put the car on an alignment machine to get the correct toe when you mess with the camber so I guess in the end it really doesn't matter too much.
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