Chassis Saver
I purchased a quart of Chassis Saver from my local Robbins auto parts for just under $40. The current mid day temperatures are not ideal for this product, they are about 10 to 15 degrees to cold. But I figured it may just take a bit longer to dry.
So I followed the instructions which said that sand blasting areas and heavily sanding them made for best adhesion. I sand blasted some of the areas afflicted with rust on my drivers side frame, the other area's I painted I did not sand as the under body around the fender is a pretty coarse area.
My initial impression was, wow, this is going to take forever. The paint lays on thin, and even with effort I could clearly see the red paint below it. So I gave everything a nice once over base coat, and let it dry over night. This stuff takes hours, upon hours to dry. (4-5 with these temps).
Today I put on a second coat, and I can still see red paint through it. Disappointing.
Tomorrow I will put on a third coat and hopefully, that will be that.
It does dry to a very very hard substance, and I think it will work well once it's all said and done, but it's a long process to get full coverage it seems.
Price- A bit high imo, but cheaper than Por-15 by a few bucks.
Would I buy it again- No. It hasn't dazzled me into making me a return customer, I would try POR-15 or Rust Bullet next.
As a primer or finish coat, Chassis Saver has become the industry standard for high performance protection on all vintage truck and auto underbody surfaces including frames, floor boards, engine compartments, trunk areas, under fenders, fire walls, rocker panels, behind bumpers, etc. The #1 choice for fleet maintenance at hundreds of public works facilities, DOT shops, truck maintenance and fleet refinishing shops nationwide. Extensively used on snow and ice removal equipment saving thousands of dollars in costly repairs.
I purchased a quart of Chassis Saver from my local Robbins auto parts for just under $40. The current mid day temperatures are not ideal for this product, they are about 10 to 15 degrees to cold. But I figured it may just take a bit longer to dry.
So I followed the instructions which said that sand blasting areas and heavily sanding them made for best adhesion. I sand blasted some of the areas afflicted with rust on my drivers side frame, the other area's I painted I did not sand as the under body around the fender is a pretty coarse area.
My initial impression was, wow, this is going to take forever. The paint lays on thin, and even with effort I could clearly see the red paint below it. So I gave everything a nice once over base coat, and let it dry over night. This stuff takes hours, upon hours to dry. (4-5 with these temps).
Today I put on a second coat, and I can still see red paint through it. Disappointing.
Tomorrow I will put on a third coat and hopefully, that will be that.
It does dry to a very very hard substance, and I think it will work well once it's all said and done, but it's a long process to get full coverage it seems.
Price- A bit high imo, but cheaper than Por-15 by a few bucks.
Would I buy it again- No. It hasn't dazzled me into making me a return customer, I would try POR-15 or Rust Bullet next.