Lady luck or common to find

lalojamesliz1

New member
msanders2":2tglty7n said:
Most likely a stuck wrist pin. This happened on a gen5 we bought from a importer. The motors sit with no oil circulating in them some it’s common for the wrist pins to stick. Pull the pan and spray some WD40 on the underside of the pistons. Should be able to turn it over by hand after.

I will definitely do that if I keep the engine. Thank you for sharing that
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
msanders2":15itwoi1 said:
Most likely a stuck wrist pin. This happened on a gen5 we bought from a importer. The motors sit with no oil circulating in them some it’s common for the wrist pins to stick. Pull the pan and spray some WD40 on the underside of the pistons. Should be able to turn it over by hand after.
I was thinking, about what you recommend..... for the stuck wrist pin did the engine turn over at all?
 

msanders2

New member
Yeah, we were able to get it to move some, but it locked down. Couldn’t get it to turn either direction. Pulled the timing belt off and turned the cams to make sure it wasn’t something in the head. Cams turned fine, bottom end was stuck. Pulled the pan and checked the bearings, all looked fine. Found out the wrist pin was stuck.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
msanders2":2ulor87m said:
Yeah, we were able to get it to move some, but it locked down. Couldn’t get it to turn either direction. Pulled the timing belt off and turned the cams to make sure it wasn’t something in the head. Cams turned fine, bottom end was stuck. Pulled the pan and checked the bearings, all looked fine. Found out the wrist pin was stuck.

Oh, well this engine turns clockwise from 15* until about -5* then it stops.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
CMS-GT4":1o2kuhy4 said:
Here is the link I looked at. Looks like ceramic like you said. https://www.mr2oc.com/61-3sgte-turbo/47 ... eries.html

I forgot to mention the st205 engine I'm my all-trac is also a wrc version but it has a egr valve. From what I remember seeing is that makes it a European version and it should have the metal/inconel wheel but it doesn't. I removed the downpipe and I remember seeing a regular ceramic wheel and nut.
The previous owner had that engine installed and they only sold him the engine and not the transmission. Very nice guy but lacking knowledge for these cars. I sold my all-trac to him with the original gen2 engine but with a cracked ringland on #3 or 4 so that's why the engine was replaced. I had a fidanza flywheel and act clutch. He thought the shop switched them over but they kept everything. Bastards.
I wonder if the importer switched the turbo or the shop switched the turbo or if it really just came with a regular ct20b.
I'll never know so I try to forget about it.
The only reason I sold the car was because I was in the middle of escrow for my house and I needed the cash for my downpayment and I already had one project car in my garage.
 

msanders2

New member
lalojamesliz1":19y5oxq9 said:
msanders2":19y5oxq9 said:
Yeah, we were able to get it to move some, but it locked down. Couldn’t get it to turn either direction. Pulled the timing belt off and turned the cams to make sure it wasn’t something in the head. Cams turned fine, bottom end was stuck. Pulled the pan and checked the bearings, all looked fine. Found out the wrist pin was stuck.

Oh, well this engine turns clockwise from 15* until about -5* then it stops.


This makes me even more convinced it’s a stuck wrist pin
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
msanders2":1i4nocwn said:
lalojamesliz1":1i4nocwn said:
msanders2":1i4nocwn said:
Yeah, we were able to get it to move some, but it locked down. Couldn’t get it to turn either direction. Pulled the timing belt off and turned the cams to make sure it wasn’t something in the head. Cams turned fine, bottom end was stuck. Pulled the pan and checked the bearings, all looked fine. Found out the wrist pin was stuck.

Oh, well this engine turns clockwise from 15* until about -5* then it stops.


This makes me even more convinced it’s a stuck wrist pin

I just removed the transmission. I'm happy the transmission spins fine in neutral and in two gears. I don't know what gears they are but I know they spin fine :D
The seller told me not to remove the trans but I'm tired of waiting for this guy and I go to work tomorrow night. I needed to know the trans was in good shape before I make any kind of deal with this guy. I can fix the engine but I personally wouldn't want to open up the trans and attempt to fix it.

The engine still stops at the same spots. Unfortunately. I'm guessing it is a stuck wrist pin like you said since you have experience with that and I don't.
I want to remove the oil pan to find out but I can wait on the seller to get back to me on the engine situation. All i care about is the trans and turbo and they both seem great. It is tempting to just put it on my engine stand and open it up
 

msanders2

New member
At the very least, you can remove the timing belt and make sure the cams still turn fine. Then try to turn the bottom end.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
msanders2":12hmbjdy said:
At the very least, you can remove the timing belt and make sure the cams still turn fine. Then try to turn the bottom end.
They don't want me too remove it. I only removed the trans because I'm not messing with the engine and I'd rather remove the trans than the timing belt. When I removed the valve cover I saw which ones don't get pushed in by the cam lobes when it stops rotating and I can push them in myself so they aren't stuck.
Thanks for the suggestions man :D
 

r-town

Member
lalojamesliz1":3shd9yg1 said:
Lady luck decided to kick me in the nu**!

I was about to remove the trans and decided to do a quick compression test since this will be the only chance I get on this engine. I used a large agm odyssey battery I have in my garage with my heavy duty jumper cables and cylinder 1 got to 120psi then it stopped. I tried it again and all I got was a loud click. I switched starters with the one in my all-trac and still just a loud click so I switched power sources to one of my cars with the engine running and still nothing. It tried to turn the crank pulley with a large socket wrench but it was stuck.
I then tried to turn it the opposite way and it worked but then got stuck again before it makes the full rotation :shoots: :pissed:
I know I didn't drop anything into the throttle body and I have the transmission in neutral and even tried it in gear with the same results. I removed the starter and looked inside the bell housing while my son turned the engine by hand until it got stuck again in both directions but I couldn't see anything wrong or loose.
I contacted the seller through Ebay and called the seller's number and they were already closed. Fortunately they replied to my ebay message and asked for a video.
What do you guys think it can be? I'm guessing a stuck valve. I had this happen with a Ford 5.0 mustang engine that sat for years and it was a stuck valve.

I wonder if the eBay sellers that provide compression videos test the engine before putting it in a container and then retest here in US before shipping to customer. Every time I buy a used engine, the seller tells me to inspect and crank it by hand when the carrier delivers it. Only time I had an issue was when the carrier cracked a valve cover gasket.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
r-town":83eo8qrl said:
lalojamesliz1":83eo8qrl said:
Lady luck decided to kick me in the nu**!

I was about to remove the trans and decided to do a quick compression test since this will be the only chance I get on this engine. I used a large agm odyssey battery I have in my garage with my heavy duty jumper cables and cylinder 1 got to 120psi then it stopped. I tried it again and all I got was a loud click. I switched starters with the one in my all-trac and still just a loud click so I switched power sources to one of my cars with the engine running and still nothing. It tried to turn the crank pulley with a large socket wrench but it was stuck.
I then tried to turn it the opposite way and it worked but then got stuck again before it makes the full rotation :shoots: :pissed:
I know I didn't drop anything into the throttle body and I have the transmission in neutral and even tried it in gear with the same results. I removed the starter and looked inside the bell housing while my son turned the engine by hand until it got stuck again in both directions but I couldn't see anything wrong or loose.
I contacted the seller through Ebay and called the seller's number and they were already closed. Fortunately they replied to my ebay message and asked for a video.
What do you guys think it can be? I'm guessing a stuck valve. I had this happen with a Ford 5.0 mustang engine that sat for years and it was a stuck valve.

I wonder if the eBay sellers that provide compression videos test the engine before putting it in a container and then retest here in US before shipping to customer. Every time I buy a used engine, the seller tells me to inspect and crank it by hand when the carrier delivers it. Only time I had an issue was when the carrier cracked a valve cover gasket.

I've seen some auctions in the past that have a video of a compression test but I was never really interested in purchasing until now. This seller told me his guys were suppose to check it but they didn't.

I spoke to the seller this morning and he wanted to know how much it would cost to get the engine running as it should. I couldn't answer that because they didn't want me to remove the oil pan. I agreed to a $500 refund on the swap and he will let me know if that's ok with his seller tomorrow morning. Man I hope it's easily fixed.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
They refunded $450 back to me for what's wrong with the engine. I wanted more but I'm happy with that since I would have been screwed if I didn't decide to do my own compression test. I When I removed the valve cover the cam lobes looked perfectly fine so I'm not worried about running it out of oil.
I don't know how soon I'll open up the bottom end because I want to install the e154f in my all-trac and I need to start but i have a quiz tomorrow with the water treatment class I'm taking and my final next week.

A little off topic but if anyone is looking for a decent job look into water distribution and water treatment operator licenses. I just passed my D2 state test and I'll be taking the T2 test in a few months. The classes are easy
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
I finally got a chance to remove the oil pans and did NOT see anything wrong. That's good and bad. Now I need to remove the head because I hear the clunking noise when it stops in the cylinder next to the distributor. I'm going to pull the distributor and see if it's that. I doubt it but if it's not the distributor then I'm pulling the head off.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
lalojamesliz1":1asddvcq said:
A little off topic but if anyone is looking for a decent job look into water distribution and water treatment operator licenses. I just passed my D2 state test and I'll be taking the T2 test in a few months. The classes are easy

As long as you can get used to the smell. I had an office trailer outside of a water treatment plant 20 years ago. Every morning there was a lovely scent in the air.
 
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