Project CMS

CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
Its been a pretty productive day. I painted all four calipers to the same semi gloss black. They will sit to cure for a couple of days. I painted up the rest of the lip. It should be done, but I will check it again later. I also painted the rear wiper arm. So that will be ready to go on. I had been going thru things around the house as well and trying to throw things out. I am also going to sort my for sale stuff tonight so I can finally list it. I feel like there is more stuff, but I have not run across it yet. Plus I am starting to parts hoard, so there is less that I might have sold.

I found my old front emblem. I had to break the tabs off the back, but this is how it would look compared to the Teq emblem.

Vote for your favorite. There is a good chance I will just plop the oem badge back on there.

photo2yml.jpg

photo1tyo.jpg
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I am not planning badges anywhere else on the car. I was trying to go for the shaved look, but I have had the holes welded by two different people, and for some reason they can not get this bottom hole to hold. Like the best solution would had to weld a plate behind it, and bondo the hole, but now that its painted I got to put something there. I think I am just going to keep it simple and go oem badge. That is one less thing I have to worry about this year.

I need to go order some new wheel bearings for my 5x114 project as I assume you can not reuse them. That is the big hurdle between me getting the brakes going now.

EDIT: So here is my calipers in matching paint.
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Its 102 today. I doubt I will be doing much work on the car today. I might mess with the emblem and the headlight cf trim. Other than that, I have studio work to do.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I thought about a black emblem. I used to have some toyota emblems made from CF but I gave them away a long while ago.
 
T

toayoztan

Moderator
For the future, if you weld in holes and have access to the back side of the hole, hold up a piece of brass like a brass hammer, and weld in the hole with a mig ontop of the brass hammer - it won't stick to the brass hammer. Then just smooth out the weld to be flush with the panel.

It's a trick my little bro did to the holes on my car.

Bryan
 
T

toayoztan

Moderator
Meurz":27c6kqh2 said:
Get a MKIV Supra hood emblem, it's the same as ours but flat black. 8)
Click to expand...

I didn't realize this...Looks like i'll be making another purchase! I still would like to have my GT-Four emblem black...was thinking of painting it chrome then black chrome/black pearl like my IS300 badging.

I agree though, that red yota emblem would maybe look good on the hatch, but that's about it, I can imagine.

Bryan
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
For those interested the supra pn is: 75314‑14010

I looked at a lot of pics of the black supra badge, and I think on my car that the silver one blends in better. I think I will just stick with silver.

So tonight, I am going to order new front wheel bearings/seals and new corner lenes. I also plan on getting a new key fob. The PN I was given was PT39807100 so I hope it works. I was thinking of getting new ball joints since I have everything apart. I am not sure how long those are supposed to last.
 
T

toayoztan

Moderator
My OEM lower ball joints are 10x stiffer than my 200k miles ones. Never had issues, but doesn't hurt to change them out if you're "there" and have it all apart.

Bryan
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
What do you mean your oem are stiffer than your 200k? Are the oem less milage? I was not sure what you meant.
 
T

toayoztan

Moderator
Sorry, was in a hurry. I meant, my brand new OEM ones are notably stiffer than the old OEM ones on my car with 200k miles on them.

So, obviously, they wear, but I didn't have issues with the lower ball joint "going out." It doesn't hurt to replace them if you've gotten to the point that you just need to remove a few more bolts/nuts.

Bryan
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
So after reading online, the way you test them is:
1) Lift the front wheels
2) grab 12 and 6 o'clock on the wheel
3) force the wheel back and forth to get any movement.

If there is any movement, the ball joint is likely bad.

My my results were solid. I gave a lot of force and it seemed good. Also there was no visual wear or cracking on the booths. I sort of wonder if the grease that got on them when my axle boots ripped created a barrier from the elements. I remember when I replaced my rubber bushings for poly the mechanic came in and said all my bushings look as good as new. He was surprised how good they looked on a car that old. Maybe there is something to say about the weather in TN. Safer from rust at least.

Its bloody hot outside so the only thing I am messing with is trying to use a heat gun to bend my headlight cf trim back into shape.

EDIT: I don't know why I thought wheel bearings were only $50 each. Looks like they are $72
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I was going to put the lip on just to take a picture, but really I need to get going on the brakes. Once it cools down, I will get out there and start on the rears. Then I can pull apart the fronts.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I have not messed with the car for a couple of days now that the wife is back home. I might jump back into it tomorrow after I go to the dentist. They messed up my filling friday. I need to find out if I need to bleed the brakes like normal when removing the calipers, or just let it all drain out.
I finally printed Dan's shirt. Now that I got things setup, I will start preparing to make this 165 design, as well as my two different 185 designs.
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T

toayoztan

Moderator
When you remove the calipers, there really shouldn't be a reason to drain all the fluid out of the lines/resevoir...that'll just make your work harder.

Bryan
 
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