aus jd's 1990 gt-4 celica

MWP

New member
Age doesnt have much to do with it.

If you get all the dampers rebuilt, they should work good as new.
If you get them rebuilt & matched, they will be better than new.

Just make sure you get that shock-dyno printout.
Getting that means you know the guys rebuilding them have done a good job.
If they say "we dont have a shock dyno", go somewhere else.
 

aus jd 2703

New member
Ok fair enough I'm not putting these on the car initially. When I put te Teins on I wanna see the difference. But I have them so weather I wanna rebuild 1 or 4 that can waiit till later. Got heaps of other stuff that needs doing first. Back to wiring :)
 

GrpAGT4

New member
Hehe I bid on those to 300 bucks. Yeah I'd get em all rebuilt if I were you. Seemed abit much to me. You see the kyb super specials on there too?
 

aus jd 2703

New member
got some news, havnt posted here in a while....
let see front cut in,
brake lights wont turn off
rad fans wont turn off
throws code 54 as intercooler isnt connected
but it runs hahaha so happy finally tried today and first try it fired up
long way to go till road worthy.
i think i need to rebuild my clutch slave cylinder but nt sure yet.
also got k&n air and oilfilters along with royalpurple and redline oils all waiting to go in and some eagle ignition leads and ngk plugs (iridium ix except one step colder so number 7's)
so far so good....
 

aus jd 2703

New member
Ok got the rad fans working right and so do the brake lights. Mounted the water pump and heat exchanger for the Intercooler. Looks good. Made a custom intake adapter. Though probably not going to run the 205 bypass valve. the piping nesscary will draW to much attention and I just want it legal so for now no bypass valve. Rear seats In and most stuff behind the dash. So bumper fenders and bonnet soon. Oh my new optima 51r fits and works a treat bargain there.
 

aus jd 2703

New member
ok guys im in need of some help,
there is a rather large air hose that comes from i believe the isc valve and when i start the car the idle is about 2000rpm when i plug the hose it drops to 1000rpm. now i dont have a water temp gauge so i dont run the car for long periods as i dont wanna risk overheating the engine, but can some one confirm that its normal for this air hose which appears to go into the airbox is ment to suck the air that much? does this seem normal?
just a bit paranoid, its not road worthy yet so i cant take it for a drive s its making it hard to diagnose this problem?
cheers guys
 

MWP

New member
When you plug that up, the engine should stall, or very close to it.
Sounds like you have a vac leak somewhere.
 

aus jd 2703

New member
ok so filled her with coolant and filled the intercooler with coolant wired it all up and started her today intercooler took 2.5l and is full and appears to work yay.
but i think i have a problem, im using a st205 radiator temp switch instead of the 1990 one and i started the car ran to temp (radiator over flow had a bit of coolant in there so assumed it was at temp.) but the radiator fan never came on, unplug the switch fans on instantly so fans work im just unsure about the switch does any one know if the two switches work the same or differently?
 

aus jd 2703

New member
ok guys i got a problem and would like some advice.
i put old pads and rotors in with new brake fluid. i bleed the system air out now its just fluid... cool
i start the car up and i go from having a rock hard peddle to a peddle thats soft until this last little bit at the end where it firms up but not enough to lock the wheels up.... ok so i bled them again but still have the same problem. its only when the engines running so obviously the booster is assisting and only then does it have enough force to do this.

what do you think would be causing my problem?
i thought the master cylinder needs a rebuild but why doesn't it do it with the engine off and me using two feet to push the brake pedal?

id really appreciate any suggestions cause i really don wanna pull the master off if its not the problem
 

MWP

New member
You 100% sure you bled them properly?
Doing rears first, then front, making sure the res was filled up all the time?

If you are, then yeah, sounds like a leaky master.
Take it to a brake shop, have them give an opinion.
 

aus jd 2703

New member
That's how I bled them the first time. Does it matter if I had the master off? Do you have to bleed them differently? A mechanic mate said I néed to vacuum bleed. Doesn't seem right to me
 

aus jd 2703

New member
I took the master cylinder and all the brake lines on the fire wall off when I painted the engine bay. Does this mean I need bleed it differently from normal?
 

aus jd 2703

New member
ok just to add more to the details.
i used clamps to clamp all 4 soft lines and the pedal is hard as a rock.
let the rear lines unclamped. still nice and hard even with the engine running. ok odd.
so then i clamped the rears and let the front brake run free and the pedal got spongy again when engines running but pumps up fine when engines off.

so do i need to rebuild my front calipers or my master cylinder?
cheers
 

aus jd 2703

New member
Well Im a little gutted. I wad getting ready to register the car and had a mechanic mate look over the car and all my fears were pretty much confirmed. Master cylinder is stuffed as MWP suggested. He stronly feels head gasket it blown just wants a co2 test to confirm. And I feel clutch is either toast or not up to the task so it's motor out and probably another $1200 into the car. A little gutted as I spent $3200 on a st205 front cut as I thought it was a better investment then rebuilding my 185 engine as stock. So I'm a little bit gutted not sureif I wanna spend the money or give up. Going to do a compression test to see if there is any thing else wrong then I'll consider my options.

What gaskets do I need for a head gasket and clutch swap?
Anything else I should do while engines out? Timing belts done but I didn't replace the tensioner or idlers?
I don't wanna give up but I'm broke and really over this car
 
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