alltracst185
New member
Very nice progress 
Project-Heartbreaker 215/205 mash up
- Thread starter soarer.jzz30
- Start date
soarer.jzz30
New member
soarer.jzz30
New member
Next step is to drop the trans and clean it up a bit, along with the PWS system. maybe paint some brackets and clean every little thing I can. I need to find a 90-91 speed sensor piece that actually bolts to the trans. Everything else in the cable spins properly ( I tested it with a drill connected (spun to 20 mph) So the only thing left is that little part specific to 90-91's with analog speedo's. :x unless I can find one from another member then I will have to go to the dealer for that one. I will have pics of the trans pulled and everything cleaned this weekend
Thanks for following.
Thanks for following.
soarer.jzz30
New member
So I have news, l friend from mr2oc that lives down the street has decided to give me a 5s with a spun rod as a donor for a stroker kit. I am going to do a complete re-build on the gen2 block including new bearings pumps rings and main seals. I am still doing a bit of research on what needs to be machined to fit the 5s crank. so I have up for sale a complete gen1 engine with gen2 inake mani and exhaust mani with a useable twin entry ct26. the fuel system is nearly complete, injectors, rail and regulator. the dizzy, wires and plugs are there as well. you will need new valve cover rubber insulators. most of the seals are there in good shape. asking $550. good deal for a nearly complete re-built gen1 3s. i just need that amount to get most of the parts for my build. If you know anyone interested please PM me asap. thanks
He also had a JDM gen2 with a blown head gasket for sale. I am thinking about buying it and selling mine minus the alt bracket. any opinions?
He also had a JDM gen2 with a blown head gasket for sale. I am thinking about buying it and selling mine minus the alt bracket. any opinions?
alternate.eago
New member
I am wondering if you still have the rebuilt Gen 1 3s for sale. I'm interested, as I think my st165 has a blown headgasket... I you still have it for sale please let me know. I'm pretty local, so I could pick it up.
soarer.jzz30
New member
pm sent
alternate.eago
New member
Replied (if It doesnt sit in my outbox forever).
Email may be quicker... Mine is my username at gmail.com.
Email may be quicker... Mine is my username at gmail.com.
soarer.jzz30
New member
Holy crap I dont know where to start.... so i broke down and sold the gen 1.... I had to clean up a 95 celica stx to sell I got for free. So I swapped out the 7afe for a used one. sold it for 2600!!! I did this to afford a 3 gen swap... I just took off the harness and I am going to take apart the original and rip out the accessory components of it. then take apart the gen3 harness and take out the accessories out of it and add the 185's. In that process I will extend half of the harness about 20" or so and cut the same off of half of the other side. Just so it fits properly and is converted for the RHD. this may seem like too much work and I should use the original and make it fit the gen3.... No. that seems redundent to me. My harness is saturated in oil and dirt, so it will just not do, not to mention all of the connectors have become brittle because of the old age, heat, and saturation. Why would I not want a newer harness and plugs? It belongs on that engine.... and the accessory harness belongs on the 185. So.... I will have pics up tommorow or monday of the rats nest I am going through. i will re-loom and tape everything very OEM and clean as well. i want it to look as though it came like that.... But actually be very close to how it would have been done from the factory or a professional harness conversion anyhow!!! 8) So I will keep posting progress in the coming weeks getting this thing going.
I just took off the harness and I am going to take apart the original and rip out the accessory components of it. then take apart the gen3 harness and take out the accessories out of it and add the 185's. In that process I will extend half of the harness about 20" or so and cut the same off of half of the other side. Just so it fits properly and is converted for the RHD. this may seem like too much work and I should use the original and make it fit the gen3.... No. that seems redundent to me. My harness is saturated in oil and dirt, so it will just not do, not to mention all of the connectors have become brittle because of the old age, heat, and saturation. Why would I not want a newer harness and plugs? It belongs on that engine.... and the accessory harness belongs on the 185. So.... I will have pics up tommorow or monday of the rats nest I am going through. i will re-loom and tape everything very OEM and clean as well. i want it to look as though it came like that.... But actually be very close to how it would have been done from the factory or a professional harness conversion anyhow!!! 8) So I will keep posting progress in the coming weeks getting this thing going.soarer.jzz30
New member
I will be posting pictures this weekend of all the progress. there is much to be said about this swap and all it entails that I have learned. but right now I am at a stand still, I have been trying to crank it over, no fire at all. BUT, there is perfect spark and injector pulse? I Grounded a test light and put the other side to the black and orange wire form the resistor pack and it pulsed just fine. I have fuel, so what the heck is the problem? hmmm. I will check and make sure the injectors are plugged to the right ones, and then on to compression and plug condition, then timing if all else fails... I emptied out all the old fuel and put in new 93 today as well, new fuel filter too. Any ideas anyone? this thing is close to starting I know it!
UtahSleeper
Active member
So, you sold one trac to get another trac? I am confused lol.
soarer.jzz30
New member
Well I got a free '95 celica STX, put in a used 7A-FE. Fixed it up and sold it for about $2600. I had a gen1 engine and some spare stuff, I sold it as well. Used the money to afford a gen3 swap in progress. Pics up later today.
soarer.jzz30
New member
holy crap I've never posted pics or progress not a bit huh? well that's gonna change soon. I have the gen 3 in. found out I had a blown ecu. got a new one from mr2 guru... still no start conditions. codes... 22, 23, 24, 31, 41, 54 yeah. I know the 54 and 23 issues and will be solved soon no worries. but... there is still no fuel ground pules from the ecu, everything seems to be checking out except some leaking voltage only present when ecu is unplugged. and still remains after sensor plugs are out as well. I did the harness myself using the two harnesses combined. using botch sets of schematics. and the sensors that are part of the center plug on the ecu plug are throwing codes. the ignition is perfect and sparking normally in rythym. the compression is 180 across the board, so valve timing is not it. all grounds have been tested for leaking voltage and resistance. checks out as well. I am just going to pull the harness soon if I cant figure it out while it's in the car. it's driving me crazy, but I have to get it to run, it idle'd twice for fifteen seconds each. which means it's trololoing me for no reason. oh and relocated the battery as well.
soarer.jzz30
New member
harness is back in after the third attempt... pretty damn sure everything is perfectly in place now... it fires under it's own power... but idles and dies after a few seconds every time after I let it sit for a second. i took off the fuel line at the filter and pinned the pump to run full time... yet the pressure seemed to be lacking, it's supposed to be at 50-60 psi, yet it looks like a grade school water fountain... perhaps the starting is actually from the residual pressure being built up...
I suppose I will go through the every connection in the ecu and body harness and look for errors... bleh
I suppose I will go through the every connection in the ecu and body harness and look for errors... bleh
soarer.jzz30
New member
I have refused to update this thread because I haven't been near the car in two years, I recently had it shipped to me in Vegas and I'm finally able to make some progress, I'm where I left off before. Gen 3 swap is in, ecu still not firing ground pulse to the injectors, after some very thorough testing I discovered a few alarming resistance values in the efi circuit, namely the center plug sensors. The have standard values when tested against the e2,yet they all have zero resistance on them all. The ignition functions normally and spark is strong, I can still get it to idle for a few seconds due to residual fuel fumes in the cylinders. Injectors have proper resistance 2-4ohm.
I pulled the harness and am testing all the sensors that gave wrong resistances and so far the tps potentially is not functioning right. I will retest with my back up
Mm. I will hand trace every wire according to the st205 ecu schematics (although the 185 sensor ground loop is different) and test resistance between both ends. Grounds again will be checked. The ecu body and ignitor as well ground will be checked. If everything checks out and I still have this same issue I will buy another 205 ecu and make sure it isn't the ecu (even though this ecu was supposedly working) as we I would like to send the ecu to anyone with a 90 usdm 185 with a Gen3 swap
I pulled the harness and am testing all the sensors that gave wrong resistances and so far the tps potentially is not functioning right. I will retest with my back up
Mm. I will hand trace every wire according to the st205 ecu schematics (although the 185 sensor ground loop is different) and test resistance between both ends. Grounds again will be checked. The ecu body and ignitor as well ground will be checked. If everything checks out and I still have this same issue I will buy another 205 ecu and make sure it isn't the ecu (even though this ecu was supposedly working) as we I would like to send the ecu to anyone with a 90 usdm 185 with a Gen3 swap
soarer.jzz30
New member
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395659934828.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395659956476.jpg[/attachment]
Just so I remember I am making progress on other areas this is my gauge mod I've done so far, lots of led's all custom fit so there is limited hot spots, and I used a combination of the gts and all trac set ups to make this, no more useless boost meter, and yes its plug and play if you use the flat wiring from the gts.
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395660276653.jpg[/attachment]
Yes I am using these wheels, maybe not exactly fitting this way but they will work and there isn't any way to convince me not to.
Just so I remember I am making progress on other areas this is my gauge mod I've done so far, lots of led's all custom fit so there is limited hot spots, and I used a combination of the gts and all trac set ups to make this, no more useless boost meter, and yes its plug and play if you use the flat wiring from the gts.
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395660276653.jpg[/attachment]
Yes I am using these wheels, maybe not exactly fitting this way but they will work and there isn't any way to convince me not to.
Attachments
soarer.jzz30
New member
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395660591985.jpg[/attachment]
Also working on custom body extensions all around, this is my side skirt rendition still in fab mode on everything but great stuff so far.
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395660669818.jpg[/attachment]
The rear I'm using a stock rear bumper cut up and filling in the repeated body lines, still work to do of course have to work on getting it to fire first.
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395660849847.jpg[/attachment]
I had a set of convertible mud flaps to add and they wrapped the new skirts well, not sure if I'll use them yet, the sides were made using Volvo s70 sides hacked up.
Also working on custom body extensions all around, this is my side skirt rendition still in fab mode on everything but great stuff so far.
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395660669818.jpg[/attachment]
The rear I'm using a stock rear bumper cut up and filling in the repeated body lines, still work to do of course have to work on getting it to fire first.
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395660849847.jpg[/attachment]
I had a set of convertible mud flaps to add and they wrapped the new skirts well, not sure if I'll use them yet, the sides were made using Volvo s70 sides hacked up.
Attachments
soarer.jzz30
New member
Because injection timing is based on engine rpm, the ECU must receive an rpm signal to operate the injector driver circuits. With Conventional EFI, this signal comes directly from the coil and is identified as IG. With TCCS, the rpm and crankshaft position identification signals come from the Ne and G1 sensors located in the distributor. If these signals are lost, the ECU will not pulse the injectors.
This is the best answer I've found for a no injector ground pulse.
This is the best answer I've found for a no injector ground pulse.
soarer.jzz30
New member
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395729715212.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395729731801.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395729743733.jpg[/attachment]
Totally forgot to upload these like two years old now maybe three.
Totally forgot to upload these like two years old now maybe three.
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soarer.jzz30
New member
Input Signals Required to Pulse Injectors
There are three signals which are necessary to operate the fuel injectors. These are the Ne, G, and IGf signals. Inside the ECU, the Ne Signal is used to produce an injection chive signal. The G signal is used to determine the timing of the injection signals. The IGf signal is monitored for fuel delivery fail-safe. (With Conventional EFI, the IG signal is used to produce the injection drive signal.)
The ECU cannot pulse the injector without an Ne signal and will not start or run if this signal is not present. If the G signal is not present while cranking the engine, the ECU will not be able to identify when to produce the injection signal. The result will be the same, no injection pulse. If the IGf signal is not present, the ECU will go into fuel fail-safe by stopping injection pulses.
If, however, the ECU loses the G signal with the engine running, the engine will continue to run because the timing of injection signals is locked in once the engine starts.
There are three signals which are necessary to operate the fuel injectors. These are the Ne, G, and IGf signals. Inside the ECU, the Ne Signal is used to produce an injection chive signal. The G signal is used to determine the timing of the injection signals. The IGf signal is monitored for fuel delivery fail-safe. (With Conventional EFI, the IG signal is used to produce the injection drive signal.)
The ECU cannot pulse the injector without an Ne signal and will not start or run if this signal is not present. If the G signal is not present while cranking the engine, the ECU will not be able to identify when to produce the injection signal. The result will be the same, no injection pulse. If the IGf signal is not present, the ECU will go into fuel fail-safe by stopping injection pulses.
If, however, the ECU loses the G signal with the engine running, the engine will continue to run because the timing of injection signals is locked in once the engine starts.