St215 motor + st205 gearbox into St165 JDM build

bmt

New member
WRX STI discs from 2002 through to 2004 I think? 326mm diameter, 30mm thick, bore 58mm, 53mm high. If you do a search on the DBA discs website you can confirm it.
 

bmt

New member
To be honest, no idea. Problem? Car is at painters so I cant check. I still need to change my master cylinder for a new one in the vain hope it will give me a consistent pedal. :bangshead:
 

deecee

New member
I had around ~1.2mm clearance when I was measuring up my brake kit. Others who have used the wrx disc have noted rubbing on the ball joint under load, requiring the ball joint to be ground back ~1mm or so to gain disc clearance. Just something to be aware of :)
 

bmt

New member
So an update is WELL overdue. Finally got all the electrics working again. If there is one thing I have learnt from this build it is to never again to piss about with the electrics in the manner I did. That is remove the entire loom forward of the door openings. Whilst I am happy with the result of having all my fuses in one place it cost me untold amounts of anguish not to mention money. Other than that it's still the brakes that are denying me.

I have a brand new master cylinder (Camry 1"). A residual (2psi) valve on the front circuit, (Combat pad knock). A manual brake proportioning valve. Brembo front calipers from an Evo. Rear calipers are St205. St202 booster. Brand new stainless braided lines. Vacuum check valve is ok. Mintex 1166 pads. Fluid is good.

Every part has been checked, the system has been bled countless times and yet I still cannot get a consistent pedal.

Things I have noticed.

When the car is parked overnight with the car running the first push on the brake pedal is long.
Pedal will pump up if I pump the brakes.

The disconcerting thing is that on the road it's ok but at the track I get a great pedal sometimes then not then ok but not great. It isn't like brake fade because the pedal doesn't get overly long and soft. I'd say it feels like a "middle" pedal. A little bit longer, still firm but no retardation. Could be boiling fluid I suppose but it happens pretty quickly.

Any ideas, anyone?

In other news the car is back from the painters!

photo 1.JPG

photo 2.JPG

It's not totally finished on the outside. There is some more blacking to be done. I had all the windows pulled to check for rust, (unbelievably none!), and filled in the gaps on the bumper by the headlights and got all the trim reblacked. Still have alarm and stereo to fit and tints then it will be done I guess?
 

klue

New member
Hey,
whats your bleed technique
I'm running wilwoods, with a mess of different lines and what not. It took me forever to get the air out of the system and I still dont get a OEM feeling pedal. But what I noticed is the pedal feel has a lot to do with the brake system temperature. When I get up to temp the pedal gets a lot firmer than just driving around low speed
 

ZeroDrift

New member
The car is looking great! The hood and lights really add to a more modern look!

Air in the lines can be a major pain to deal with. May want to invest in some speed bleaders to make the process easier. I am not sure what you did with the brakes, but if you changed calipers, make sure they have the bleed screw at the highest point. Otherwise the system will trap air within the caliper itself.
 

athousandleaves

New member
ZeroDrift":zxc2sk4r said:
May want to invest in some speed bleaders to make the process easier.

I nearly bought these but then I read some reviews, apparently they are prone to shearing off inside calipers when tightened.

I'd recommend trying to reverse bleed the system if you think there's still air in the lines.
 

bmt

New member
Thanks for the replies guys!

Bleed process i did was to bleed the master then move to the proportioning valve bleed there. Then bleed at, (in order), left rear,right rear,left front finally right front. All bleed points on calipers were at the top. I use a vacuum bleed at first then with help from a mate old school manual bleed.

Athousandleaves How do you reverse bleed? Pressurise the system from the caliper? How?
 

___Scott___

Active member
You say "Brand new stainless braided lines". I assume you are referring only to the flexible lines that connect to the calipers?

Just to cover all the bases...

If you replaced all the hard lines with flexible stainless braided lines, you would get a soft peddle because of the expansion flexible lines exhibit under pressure. The more flex line, the more expansion and the softer the peddle. Also, if somehow you ended up with excessively stretchy lines, you may experience a soft peddle even if you only replaced the lines at the calipers. That will be true even with no air in the system.
 

bmt

New member
Yep just the flexible lines to the calipers. I'm going to have a go at making up a tool to reverse bleed it.
 

bmt

New member
DeeCee":t1g2q703 said:
I had around ~1.2mm clearance when I was measuring up my brake kit. Others who have used the wrx disc have noted rubbing on the ball joint under load, requiring the ball joint to be ground back ~1mm or so to gain disc clearance. Just something to be aware of :)
I had a look the other day and when it was on droop on the hoist I had about 5mm of clearance and no evidence of anything rubbing on the ball joint.
 

bmt

New member
Hey guys, Just to let you know . I still own the car and it is still going as intended!!Celica at home resized.JPG This is my alternate wheel set. Celica on Superleggaras resized.JPG
This was part of a Calendar shoot. :wink: :D Calendar girls resized.JPG
 
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