St185 3sgte rebuild : steps to take

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celigts

New member
So I have my 3sgte sitting outside and feel horrible for it being there.
It's been there and I need to redo the headgasket.

Looking for help on what steps to take first, things to beware and take caution removing, and what a new rebuilder should do.



Thanks guys and hope to have a good thread to help other new ppl looking to do a rebuild
 
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l0ch0w

New member
I like to make sure everything is spotless and squeaky clean before breaking into areas that filtered oil sees. (ie. pressure washer)

Are you doing anything beyond a head gasket repair?

Did the block ever overheat?

Do you have the BGB reference handy? If its on your computer, I recommend printing out the pages you will need. Really the BGB tells you just about everything you will need to do a proper head gasket replacement. As well as all the steps for removing the motor and reinstalling it.

Lastly, remember the following parts should be replaced:

Timing Belt
Timing Belt tensioner and both idler pulleys
Also you should buy the "valve grind" gasket set for your motor. Kbox seals carries them, as does lithia toyota.

Lastly you should consider buying a tube of black FIPG (form in place gasket) from the toyota dealership. Its pronounced "fippage" they will know what it is. You will use this to reseal the valve cover near the front cam bearing caps and the distributor cap. Grey permatex RTV just wont cut it. Plus this stuff is freaking amazing... the uses are endless...
 
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celigts

New member
Block did hit the hot mark but I immediately turned off the car and added coolant so I don't think the head is warped but it would be wise to have it machined to have a smoother cleaner edge anyways... Right ?

And I'd like to do anything I can if while it's out. I was told this motors been bored to the 2.2 but have no clue if it is or not so I have to get my curiosity fix !

Will that book tell me torque specs I'll need to know?
Will or should I replace any bolts or studs? Will arp have all I'll be looking for?
How do I delete the power steering? The pump must stay connected right
Should I order the tensioners and pullys from Toyota?

Wheres the most reasonable place to order the gasket kit? Is eBay alright or is there better prices else where
 
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toayoztan

Moderator
celigts":3tzi5nkl said:
Block did hit the hot mark but I immediately turned off the car and added coolant so I don't think the head is warped but it would be wise to have it machined to have a smoother cleaner edge anyways... Right ?

And I'd like to do anything I can if while it's out. I was told this motors been bored to the 2.2 but have no clue if it is or not so I have to get my curiosity fix !

Will that book tell me torque specs I'll need to know?
Will or should I replace any bolts or studs? Will arp have all I'll be looking for?
How do I delete the power steering? The pump must stay connected right
Should I order the tensioners and pullys from Toyota?

Wheres the most reasonable place to order the gasket kit? Is eBay alright or is there better prices else where
Click to expand...

An honest machine shop will let you know if the head is warped or not. The block deck should be fine regardless in your situation.

BGB will tell you all th torque specs.
Replacing to ARP head studs isn't a bad idea, if you're staying stock, not necessary then to go ARP.
Why do you want to delete it? No, the pump doesn't need to stay there at all, the PS runs its own belt.

Gasket kit from Toyota online sites that sell parts for cheap or www.KORacing.net sells them.

Look at replacing the oil pump if needed, front and rear main seal, timing tensioner, cam seals, and coolant hoses on the block/oil cooler.

Bryan
 
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celigts

New member
wanted to keep the car without the ps cuz i isnt in working stages right now from the swap so ive neglected it and its been manual since summer.

im gonna probably get the ps running again tho cuz im kind of getting tired of man handling and looking like an idiot parking lol


also thankfully got the bgb from a member and when i find the place im gonna start this for sure. so hard to see it without being able to do anything :(
 
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celigts

New member
Not yet. I will take a walk around and show what the car looks like for the winter. With the stock mags :)


Tomorrow I'm gonna post a pic of the motor I'll be building. It's been in the snow and outside since last October atleast. :( sucks I know and probably not good but no way to store it. Hopefully I don't get any bad news from you guys when you see. The tranny is also just sitting outside. Letting weather take a beating on the indestructible motor and tranny X)
 
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celigts

New member
No sadly :( we have a deck but nobody around to help walk it there and I've been strapped for cash since November and it only snowed the beginning of February. All this was from days of snow! Your seeing it at its worst.
 
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WarTowels

Active member
Not to be a dingus, but you want to build a motor and you didn't even take the time to properly store it or even make the best of improperly storing it. Come on man! That's ridiculous! *Pokes celigts in the eye*

Did you seal it up at least? I pray you didn't leave all the intake, spark plugs, ports, ect open... when that snow melts that could cause some unwanted corrosion. :cry:

-Towels
 
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celigts

New member
WarTowels":2plw4k1b said:
Not to be a dingus, but you want to build a motor and you didn't even take the time to properly store it or even make the best of improperly storing it. Come on man! That's ridiculous! *Pokes celigts in the eye*

Did you seal it up at least? I pray you didn't leave all the intake, spark plugs, ports, ect open... when that snow melts that could cause some unwanted corrosion. :cry:

-Towels
Click to expand...


I know man. I slap myself every time I see it. YES I did plug the open ports with rags so no snow would get into them.

I know it's outside but its just another reason to rebuild the motor. I wanna clean it all out and replace all the gaskets atleast. Then I know it's clean an nothing is warped or broken.
 
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celigts

New member
Started undressing the motor last night. Here is some pics we took.
 

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celigts

New member
Got to greasy so this is the rest
 

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bmt

New member
Having only done a couple of head pulls myself. Do your cam belt and idlers as suggested. Do you water pump at the same time. Take your head to a reputable shop. Get them to disassemble, clean it and plane it flat AND put it back together. I did and dont regret the time saved and money spent. They have all the gear and do it quick. Other than that follow the BGB. Cheers!
 
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celigts

New member
bmt":u013xpe4 said:
Having only done a couple of head pulls myself. Do your cam belt and idlers as suggested. Do you water pump at the same time. Take your head to a reputable shop. Get them to disassemble, clean it and plane it flat AND put it back together. I did and dont regret the time saved and money spent. They have all the gear and do it quick. Other than that follow the BGB. Cheers!
Click to expand...


Took the head to a shop :) but may not be able to get them to assemble it because I don't have replacement valve stem seals. Could someone post pics of some so I can send it to a friend. He may have some for me. Also if he doesn't will the common ones found at parts stores will it be ok to use those.?
 
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celigts

New member
For the water pump rebuild/ gaskets will it come in a full gasket rebuild kit, it will right?

Cleaned the area where the old gasket was from crud. Still have the crank in tho cuz it kept turning over so I didn't get it off.
 
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l0ch0w

New member
I would suggest running the full gamut on your rebuild... If the block has been sitting outside or if that motor ever experienced a bearing failure, you are going to want to get all of your oil galleries cleaned out... which means pulling out your crankshaft, and having the block hot-tanked and the freeze plugs replaced.

Follow BGB instructions on replacing crankshaft mains, and I would highly suggest using OEM fitted bearings as long as all of your journals still look good.

Try getting your seals from lithiatoyotaparts.com :)

The part numbers are:
Intake: 90913-02090
Exhaust: 90913-02104

But seeing as you are doing the whole top end, perhaps you should look at a complete gasket set??? Both come with the necessary valve stem seals... The valve grind kit only includes the top end gaskets, the full kit includes everything...

P/N: 04111-74340 (full kit)
P/N: 04112-74330 (valve grind)
 
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