1991 RC recovery mission - "Rebel Scum"

toayoztan

Moderator
Hey, thought i'd check out this project. Looking good so far, I'm curious how well you like the porsche brake set up once you get driving.

I'm deciding between it or wilwoods.

What's the diameter of the sti rotors?

Bryan
 

underscore

Well-known member
The STi rotors are something like 326mm so 12.8".

Everythings been stalled for a while but between Christmas and New Years I'm going to push to get it wrapped up so that it can at least roll again, then I'll tear the turbo off for hopefully the last time, replace the HFH and the turbo oil gaskets, and be done for the year. This is teardown #1 of 3 for this car, and I'm glad it's nearly done. The next two will be better planned out and should go a lot quicker.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Small update, I finally went and cleaned up the rear subframe and the gouge I accidentally put in the one mounting spot. I started tripping the paint and then realised it was a stupid idea because there isn't any rust on it and the stock paint is intact. So I'm going to clean it off with a pressure washer and spray over the bits I sanded, then start putting things back together. I've also got the front end loosely put back together, everything just needs to be torqued.
 

underscore

Well-known member
I finally got off my butt and painted the rear subframe, I ended up just blasting a couple of coats over everything as the paint really only has to hold up for a year. I also stripped off the fog/driving lights as I want to relocate them a bit, they must have been on this car for years because they were more corroded and seized than anything else on the car.
 

underscore

Well-known member
I got the main rear subframe bushings in (the 4 big ones) and loosely installed the rear diff mount. These delrin bushing fit perfectly, just a bit of grease and some love taps from my rubber mallet and they went right in.

Unfortunately I then realized I has completely forgotten about the small crossmember and went and dug it out from under the car. Unfortunately it's in much worse shape than everything else, so I'm going to get it sandblasted.

I ended up snapping one of the studs on the weight/block of metal that bolts to the crossmember, does anyone know what this thing is actually for? It's part #51277‑20010 and it looks to be some kind of counterweight, if I need it I'll drill out the stud and put in a bolt, but if it's useless I won't bother putting it back in.
 

phattyduck

New member
underscore":1d157g2p said:
I ended up snapping one of the studs on the weight/block of metal that bolts to the crossmember, does anyone know what this thing is actually for? It's part #51277‑20010 and it looks to be some kind of counterweight, if I need it I'll drill out the stud and put in a bolt, but if it's useless I won't bother putting it back in.
Its a vibration dampener... just leave it off.

-Charlie
 

underscore

Well-known member
because I miss driving it...it's been about 11 months now

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underscore

Well-known member
Got the rear crossmember back from my friends powdercoating and fab shop, like everything he does it looks absolutely amazing, it's a bit of a shame that it'll be hidden under the car. In the downtime I also started cutting up the trunk plastics so I can install the rear strut tower bar when the rear end goes back together.
 

underscore

Well-known member
I've been sick as a dog all week, so I didn't get anything done on the car. In the meantime, pictures of the sexy powdercoating since it will likely never be seen again. The pictures don't do it justice, the lighting in my house sucks.

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toayoztan

Moderator
Looks good, I wondered about doing my undercarriage stuff in a matte/flat/satin color instead of the gloss colors I went with. It definitely looks clean.

Bryan
 

underscore

Well-known member
Long story short, I wasn't originally planning on getting it done satin black but I ran low on time and money and the rear crossmember was rusty and needed to be cleaned up, so I gave it to my friend and told him to toss it in with a batch of something neutral. I'm stoked to start wrapping this project up and get the car running again, but I'm a bit worried about a few problems I've run into in the front end.
 

l0ch0w

New member
hit me up, i ordered a few too many grommets for the holes in the subframe. I think I may have a full set of the smalls and one of the medium sized plugs.
 

underscore

Well-known member
I think I still have most of the subframe plugs but I'm not sure, they're all very old and beat up though. What are they for anyways?
 

underscore

Well-known member
I need some serious help here guys, I'm starting to put everything back together but the suspension arms aren't lining up with the subframe! The "ARM ASSY, REAR SUSPENSION, NO.1" isn't at the right angle and is several inches short from meeting the subframe when the axle is in and "ARM ASSY, REAR SUSPENSION, NO.2" is connected at both ends.

Have I got the No.1 arms on the wrong side? Or did the bushings get installed incorrectly? I'm seriously lost here...

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underscore

Well-known member
That's how I have them, I should note that pics 1/2/3 are of the USDM drivers side, 4/5 are the USDM passenger side. I've got them with the mounting tabs/cutout for the caliper towards the front like the parts diagram shows, but now that I think about it don't the calipers bolt onto the rear side? Which would mean I've got the hubs backwards.

edit: I just looked at my own pictures, which I should've done in the first place, and of course I've got the hubs switched. Derp.
 

Landon

New member
^lol glad you figured it out. if you need anymore help, this is how the setup should be, passenger rear. And yeah, caliper mounts rear. Good luck!
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underscore

Well-known member
Ok fun new question: How do I figure out which arm is which (pictures 1 and 5)? The amount of bushing is different on each side, looking at the parts diagrams the thicker side goes towards the front of the car but those have already lied to me once.
 
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