Talk about your project car here
Thu Apr 30, 2015 7:06 pm
That's what I figured as well, it's going to the machine shop today or tomorrow to be torn apart and checked out. Depending on what they find it'll either be some bearings and rings or all new rods, pistons, etc. I'm hoping for the former as I'd prefer to stick to OEM parts but the machining costs for some of them could reach nearly as high as forged parts.
Fri May 22, 2015 3:02 am
Alright now I'm in a sticky spot, the machine shop has the original RC engine and supposedly they started tearing it apart today. Now a friend of mine who owns a performance autowreckers just got in a JDM MR2 that was in a front end crash, 101k kms on it and 180-185 psi across the board, has a sticker for a timing belt change at 89k. He's asking less for the longblock with the oil cooler than what forged pistons alone would cost me if my original engine has to get bored out. I'm really tempted to grab this and just chuck my head on it with a TRD headgasket and some ARP studs and call it done (maybe rings/bearings too) since I'm not too keen to spend a pile of money on forged parts that are way beyond my goals.
Fri May 22, 2015 7:35 pm
underscore wrote:Alright now I'm in a sticky spot, the machine shop has the original RC engine and supposedly they started tearing it apart today. Now a friend of mine who owns a performance autowreckers just got in a JDM MR2 that was in a front end crash, 101k kms on it and 180-185 psi across the board, has a sticker for a timing belt change at 89k. He's asking less for the longblock with the oil cooler than what forged pistons alone would cost me if my original engine has to get bored out. I'm really tempted to grab this and just chuck my head on it with a TRD headgasket and some ARP studs and call it done (maybe rings/bearings too) since I'm not too keen to spend a pile of money on forged parts that are way beyond my goals.
depends which jdm mr2. if 93+, still keep in mind that it does have 100k of use on it.
maybe put the jdm motor in, just do a minor maintenance on it, all seals/gaskets etc, then build up your RC motor over time with quality parts while keeping the budget workable. with the jdm motor at good compression, i wouldn't even take off the head...save the trd HG and ARPs for your RC motor..
Wed Jul 22, 2015 4:22 am
underscore wrote:Coilovers are in my living room! I almost don't want to install them because of how clean and shiny they are haha
Which coilovers? The photos are not working.
Car looks great as well man!
Wed Jul 22, 2015 6:46 pm
Thanks! Looks like photobucket went and blew up everyones links a while back, they're BC Racing RAM Type. They aren't perfect but they suit my needs quite well.
Wed Jul 29, 2015 5:38 pm
Which brand coilovers. Just curious.
Wed Jul 29, 2015 6:07 pm
Wed Jul 29, 2015 9:09 pm
Alright so the machine shop finally pulled everything apart, the good news is the crank doesn't need any work, bad news is according to them I need valves and springs. I really didn't want to touch the valves since that means machining the valve seats, and the RC seats are different from regular 185's so this is no bueno for my goal of keeping all the RC-specific stuff intact. I should be hearing back today on what the cylinders look like since I'd prefer to stick with the OEM internals and just do bearings and rings if I can.
Fri Sep 04, 2015 4:38 am
Did more digging and new valves should be okay with my restrictions, the machine shop finally checked the bores and there's some taper (not surprising after 186k) so we went ahead and ordered the following:
Brian Crower valves, springs, guides and keepers
ARP head studs
crank and conrod bearings
Crank and rods show no signs of wear or damage so they'll stay OEM. New brake lines for the ABS delete are also on order, so far the most urgently missing piece left is the ORC throwout bearing.
Sun Dec 13, 2015 12:51 am
So, any updates for your build??
Sun Dec 13, 2015 2:03 pm
Not as many as I'd like, the machine shop should be done with the engine by the end of the month and the shop has managed to source an ORC throwout bearing. With any luck it'll be hitting the road by early spring of next year.
Tue Dec 15, 2015 1:01 pm
so with the jdm engine with low miles would u still change the head gasket and arp bolts and other gaskets? i picked up a front clip with 36k miles (converted from km) and i been debating on if i should or shouldn't replace parts. i am upgrading to a ct20b ats upgrade and 15psi so im not sure if i need to with such low miles was going to add water/methanol for safety
did you change the head gaskets and arp bolts ?
Tue Dec 15, 2015 8:04 pm
With how much work it is to pull these engines I'd do the external gaskets but leave the headgasket and studs alone. If you're planning on keeping the car then the extra cost is minimal, and then you know you're not relying on dried out, 20+ year old gaskets. I ended up deciding to rebuild the whole engine so it made it a moot point for me.
I'm not sure what the difference is with the ATS CT20B however I would recommend doing lots of research to be sure it's actually an upgrade as ATS has been known for some dodgy practices.
Wed Jan 20, 2016 10:55 pm
Sun Jan 15, 2017 8:38 am
After nearly a year with no real updates, it finally runs. A few hiccups with a couple minor fluid leaks but it can run and move without my pushing it or making the vroom vroom noises myself. Hopefully it'll be buttoned up this week, then a bit of break in on the dyno and then it'll be tucked away til things warm up a bit more. It's US legal now as well, so once I tidy up a few things I may put it up for sale. The USD to CAD conversion is pretty beneficial for you ladies and gents right now.
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