88' Celica Alltrac refresh

Curry

New member
Finally got done with the valve cover gaskets last night. Can't start it since I have to wait for the RTV to cure. I cleaned up as much as I could with everything out and replaced a bunch of hoses. New TB gasket and new TB to intercooler coupler.

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GT4times2

Moderator
Getting there!! Once everything is back together, spray the engine with some Simple Green (or degreaser of your choice), a brush and get going on all the greasy spots. Keep up the good work! :)
 

Curry

New member
Yep getting there for sure. So moment of truth started the car and no leaks! It idles perfectly! We let the car run for a while still no luck with the coolant temp gauge working so I need to figure that out and the heat doesn't appear to be working either...

The car ran for a while and it smoked I guess burning off all the crap that was down there and some oil i spilled down there. I checked to make sure the oil filter wasn't leaking its fine and i don't see anywhere else oil could be leaking from. Oil levels are fine.

We moved the car and it went forward and reverse perfectly we could not drive it anywhere since I still havent fixed the brake line and the hand brake is not working....

Video for those who came here to see a car idling. Sounds like my 01' WRX . :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XK5WTjS5u4M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVcQubHX4TA
 

88gt4DE

Active member
Prol doesn't have anything to do with the temp gauge but I wouldnt plan on running that radiator for too long. Mine sat for a long time and when I got it running wouldnt circulate coolant at all ... alumn upgrades are dirt cheap lately ...
 

Curry

New member
88gt4DE":1y23473e said:
Prol doesn't have anything to do with the temp gauge but I wouldnt plan on running that radiator for too long. Mine sat for a long time and when I got it running wouldnt circulate coolant at all ... alumn upgrades are dirt cheap lately ...

I had the cap open trying to see if the system needed bleeding and as the engine got warmer the coolant started to rise. It did bubble but not much. My friend revved the car a few times and some coolant shot out. The hoses were hot to the touch as well. So im pretty sure its circulating, but your right i dont trust that radiator and I will change it out.

Any place specific you recommend getting it from?
 

88gt4DE

Active member
Take yer pick on Ebay. Was looking yesterday actual at randow st165 stuff and there was a ton of them ... I would give you the guys info I got mine from but it had pinhole in it when I got it. They are cheaper now then when I got mine too ... As for the bleeding , may want to grab one of those facy funnels. Less mess / loss and you can really see the air purge better and you will know for sure if the thermostat opens too. :wink:
 

Curry

New member
Yep I found a few on eBay. Before I order ill post it up. They have them listed for around 150... ill probably get some new hoses too...

Picking up a new temp sensor today to see if that solves my gauge issue.
 

Curry

New member
So problem solved. Rather than fiddle with the sensor I picked up a new one from autozone, it worked for a little and stopped. I pulled the wire again, stripped it and attached it temporarily and all is well so corrosion is to blame :shoots: tomorrow ill solder on a new spade connectors and reattach.

Fired the motor up and it idles smooth. Less smoke since most of the coolant and oil has burned off. I tried the heater fix and I do get heat now which is great. I just need to do the permanent fix now.

Here is a pic for reference in case anyone comes across the same issue. It is the new shiny sensor with the blue connector. When you remove it coolant wont gush out it will kinda chug so work quickly to avoid any mess. I just stuck a rag under there and it was fine.

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88gt4DE

Active member
Good news on the temp gauge 8) ... A MUST on these cars ... I watch that like a hawk in mine ...
 

Curry

New member
Good news for sure. Yes im always watching the gauge on my wrx too...

I still had a small leak by the injectors so I pulled them again and changed all the seals. No more leak. But I did notice a small oil leak not sure where its coming from. The car is idling a little high as well it was idling fine just the other day....
 

88gt4DE

Active member
Curry":3olnss3z said:
Good news for sure. Yes im always watching the gauge on my wrx too...

I still had a small leak by the injectors so I pulled them again and changed all the seals. No more leak. But I did notice a small oil leak not sure where its coming from. The car is idling a little high as well it was idling fine just the other day....

I fight idle issues with mine too. I think the throttle body is crap ( mine that is ) I've even tried other ones and not any better. Just living with how it is. Mine will be high and Ill tap the gas and it comes down. Could be cable i guess too but i havent gotten farther into it ... also i've been running it with the IAC disconnected. With it plugged in it runs at 1500 no matter what ...
 

Curry

New member
Interesting I have to look into that.

On a another any particular reason the car would start leaking oil? It wasnt leaking before and we ran it quite a bit... After I fixed the injectors I saw oil dripping while the car was running not sure exactly where but I'll pull the bottom panels tomorrow to see.
 

88gt4DE

Active member
if its on the belt side of the engine towards the back it could be the oil pump seal which can crack when it gets dry and start dripping. Seen that with many camry and celica 3S and 5S
engines very common. However we have alot more crap that can leak than the standard 3S,5S motor so depends where its coming down ... Let us know :smokes:
 

Curry

New member
Lots of headache and woes today. Was not able to get much done. Rotors came in so I went to install them along with new pads and E-Brake shoes.

Front pads were wrong had to return them and the new ones come in tomorrow. So that didnt get done. I did manage to slap on the new rotors at least :pissed:

Ready to do the parking brake shoes. The new ones match the old ones, easy peasy right? Nope not for me at least.

I install the new shoes, the pad from the new shoe is keeping the rotor from going on!!!! :? :pissed:

I tried adjusting it 6 ways from sunday and still no luck. I can't figure it out.

Its also worth noting that only ONE side out of the 2 shoes actually moves when i pull the handle... wtf?

Can anyone shed light on this mystery?? :bangshead:

1. All the springs are installed correctly
2. I completely loosened the parking brake cable.
3. I checked and re checked the adjustment point and springs
4. everything is seated correctly.
5. Matched up the OLD and NEW shoes. Exact same size minus the actual pad.

This is the shoe,


http://shopnow.partsauthority.com/item. ... S&weight=2
 

88gt4DE

Active member
Did you back off all the adjustment on the part that goes between the shoes ? Unless you got new rotors it can be a lip on the inside surface ...
 

Curry

New member
I was able to finally get them on after fiddling with the cable and hold down springs. I pulled the cable on both sides to give it some more slack and put some grease. I also changed the hold down springs and everything fit. It was still a tiny bit tight so we just sanded the friction material just a little and it was fine.

After all that we put on new pads and rotors all around and finally patched up the brake line. I did NOT use compression fittings. I doubled flared the lines and used unions. After patching it we found two more leaks in 2 more lines in the same area :shoots: :cry: :shock: :doh:

We went ahead and fixed that one. We couldn't complete the last one because we ran out of parts and all the parts stores were closed. So tomorrow hopefully that line is the last of it!!!!!

After everything I may take the car to my dad's friends shop and have him replace the entire length of brake line. I had no luck getting to it up front.

I used two foot brake line segments from autozone that were already double flared and had the fittings on them. I had also purchased a pipe bending tool a while back which came in handy.
 

Curry

New member
Back at it again. I replaced one more line today and the brakes held for just a little bit before it sunk to the floor and I heard another hiss. I checked and this time one of lines all the way in back is misting brake fluid. I tried to get up front to see If I can remove an entire line but have had no luck at all. The back seems to be the worst to get to.

To save myself further headache i thoroughly went over each line to check for anymore rust and so far its looking good. I just need to figure out how to get the line out... I will post a pic showing which line and where its leaking.

So far all my double flared lines are holding up with no other leaks. But we shall see once this line is fixed. I was considering just taking it to a shop to have the line replaced. I may go get a quote on thursday.

We did drive it around the yard a little and the e-brake worked great. lol.

ill probably post this in the maintenance thread.

Heres the leak... Red circle is the line and the red dot is where brake fluid is misting from. Green is what was fixed so far.

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88gt4DE

Active member
This is why ABS removal and re-line is on my project list. Absolutely a dick to get to it and good luck even getting that line out of the ABS unit. mine are seized and ill have to just cut them when the time comes. Planning on dropping the rear subframe to tackle that project ....
 
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