700AWHP or Bust

klue

New member
looks sooo pretty!

any reason your keeping the 5sfe oil cooler/warmer? doesnt look like oil changes will be fun
 

BADNEWS

Member
I'm thinking of getting a oil temp gauge. If it gets bad I'll look into an external cooler. But that 5S oil cooler is bigger than the 3S one. It's off a 92 MR-2.
 

klue

New member
rm2932":eazztbe3 said:
I'm thinking of getting a oil temp gauge. If it gets bad I'll look into an external cooler. But that 5S oil cooler is bigger than the 3S one. It's off a 92 MR-2.


couldnt hurt to get the gauge, I mount one on the cylinder head the oil is usually pretty hot by the time it gets there

the cooler definitely looks bigger, late 5sfe one
 

BADNEWS

Member
Received my Cusco oil today for the rear diff. Snapped some shots of it all assembled. Put it all in the car today. No photos of it in the car due to there being no room with it barely off the ground.

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brutekiller787

New member
looks awesome so far. do you go to a tech school? looks like you have access to some pretty nice equipment.

interesting that a destroked 5s makes more power than a stroker. very interesting indeed.
 

BADNEWS

Member
No, this is just a hobby. The shop in the background is my local Toyota dealership. My friend is a tech there, so I went there to use some tools I don't own. And SST's when I need them. So far I only really need SST's for the transfer case. With out the adapter for the tail shaft nut I have no idea how you would ever do it.
 

MWP

New member
brutekiller787":7azrscns said:
interesting that a destroked 5s makes more power than a stroker. very interesting indeed.

Not surprising at all.

Decreasing stroke rasies the rev limit. Higher revs = more HP.
Decreasing stroke also decreases torque though.

So as always, there are trade-offs.
 

gearhead313

New member
MWP":2bfu319z said:
brutekiller787":2bfu319z said:
interesting that a destroked 5s makes more power than a stroker. very interesting indeed.
Decreasing stroke rasies the rev limit. Higher revs = more HP.


Not necessarily true. RPM translates into rate of airflow. If your cylinder head cannot flow the air the rotating assembly is pumping, then power drops off. Power over RPM is SOLELY dependent on the cylinder head.

NO benefit from revving this motor higher:
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/klassepr ... -Graph.jpg

Rev this higher YES!:
http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/e ... 1325793275
 

l0ch0w

New member
Pat took his original setup to nearly 10k and over 850whp on stock valves and a completely unworked head. Sorry but the 3S head does NOT need a lick of head work done to it. Yes, he had many other rediculous modifications but the head and valves are relatively unimportant to focus on until you start breaching the top efficiency maximums for the motor beyond 900whp. More importantly than head work is getting a decent set of cams that will let more air in. They are pretty much necessary for anything beyond 400whp, and TBH, some mid range 268s will put your power band towards the 5000-8500 range. Lift is the biggie here, gen3 kelfords and GSCs take the cake with almost 11mm of lift, which is insane. 272s are overkill IMO on this engine due to it shifting the power band up beyond 6500 rpm.

IF you are going to do any headwork whatsoever, Maybe a little bit of deshrouding and bowl blending in the combustion chambers and cleaning up the casting marks/flaws can be done for small increases and better combustion. But stock has been proven to be fine for several high HP builds, porting and rediculous head work is virtually unnecessary on the 3S head for high HP, to include the gen 3 and may actually harm performance if done too much.

Remember... these heads were designed by Yamaha... These guys are the shit when it comes to way overdesigning their cylinder heads for optimal flow. If you want the best flowing 3S head out there, then get yourself either a redtop head or a blacktop head and go from there. The port angles and size are about as optimal as you can get out of any 4 cylinder engine's head.
 

BADNEWS

Member
I don't think lift is that important. My reason is I tested the HKS 272 9.2mm lift cams vs HKS 272 10.4mm on my engine in 2005. Here is the link to all the cams I tested(If anyone wants all the run files I can email them to you so you can overlay them yourself in the winpep7 run viewer):

http://blog.cj-motorsports.com/2006/08/24/3sgte-camshaft-test.aspx

Here is the results of the high lift(red) vs low lift(blue) cams:

highvslow.gif


I really like to use the uncorrected numbers: I stayed with the high lift cause they were mine. I borrowed a friends low lift for the test. But if I had low lift I would of just stayed with them. The high lift does spool faster which is a bonus.

uncorrected_zpsa1274d01.jpg
 

BADNEWS

Member
Hard to believe my Alltrac used to look like this (pics taken around 2002):

Mods at the end (last time it drove as a white car was 2004) before the change to what it is now:
Magnecor plug wires
G-Force ECU
HKS BOV
underdrive crank pulley
HKS 264 cams(put in after 14.2 run)
CT20B @ 15psi
HKS VPC (took out after 14.2 run)
HKS GCC (took out after 14.2 run)
Trueleo downpipe
Aussie Midpipe
Apex-I N1 Cat Back
ACT clutch
Jun lightened flywheel
ST185RC trans
RC bumper (had the hood but never put it on cause always had the TMIC)
Greddy Boost, EGT, and fuel pressure gauge (All 60mm)
Apex-I AVC-R boost controller
HKS Air intake

With just the HKS intake the car ran 15.8 @ 85mph with a 2.152 60 foot. What a heavy pig. The car was 100% stock form except for the hks air intake and a half of tank of gas when it weighed in at 3650 with NO ONE in it. Probably right around when this picture was taken. When it ran 15.2 it had intake, catback, downpipe, jap spec midpipe (no 2nd cat but not the Aussie 3" aftermarket one), underdrive pulley, G-Force ECU, CT26, and Apex-I AVC-R at 15psi. The 60 foot time was a 2.0 because the car would bog due to lack of power which was created by the heat soak intercooler.

The car ran a best of 14.2 @ like 92mph with all the mods listed minus the HKS 264 cams. Probably had some more in it to get into the 13's but the VPC made it run like crap. And my girlfriend at the time was the driver. So I think she had like a 1.9-2.0 60 foot time. Later I took out the VPC/GCC and added the 264 cams, car felt a lot faster.

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RedCelicaTRD

Moderator
I remember! Looked good then, too!

I think I also remember your girlfriend at the time... :oops:

I'm not stalking you, I just I have no life.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Your car's weight is making me believe the rumor that 90-91 was heavier than the 92-93. I weighted mine at 3280 with the RC bumper and hood.
 

BADNEWS

Member
Just the A/F were touched up. I never messed with timing. I even changed the cams on the dyno so it was strapped the same and everything. It was all done in a 24 hour time span.
 

BADNEWS

Member
Changed my screen name from RM2932 to BADNEW5 fyi

Here is a video of my engine setup I was running except this was at less boost and with a smaller turbo in my FWD Celica. Had the Greddy T67 turbo kit previously. This is why I took the motor out, got rid of the 94 Celica, and put all my effort into the Alltrac. It got annoying really fast.

http://youtu.be/T1uXjgG0US0
 

warracer

New member
Wow its un-drivable spins in each gear, torque steer must have been horrendous as well.... :doh: But definitely a wow-factor here
 

BADNEWS

Member
If you looked closely, you'd notice that my gearing is super tall with my 9000rpm and a Solara V6 trans.

1st=52mph
2nd=88mph
3rd=134mph

I didn't finish 3rd in the 20psi one. Probably only went to 8000rpm at most. But 8000rpm in 3rd=119mph. So I would say I ended at 115-120mph. I was spinning so hard all I would do is hit the rev limiter in 1st and 2nd gear. Meaning not even a thought of traction 3rd gear or 90+mph.
 

BADNEWS

Member
The dual rail got done yesterday. Here are a couple rough photos of it.

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And got some random parts ready to get a color change with anodizing. I think I'm going to anodize my intercooler black too. There is some more I want done that is not in the picture too. This is just the starting pile. I'll finish up what i want done on Monday, and then work on finding a place to to it. Once I get all this stuff back onto the car/motor. I'll take my final photos of the engine on the stand. Then put it into the car finally. I'm still waiting on a crush sleeve from Toyota till I can get my transfer case back together from powder coating it. I've been waiting on it for at least 2+ weeks now. I hope I get that all back together while I'm waiting on this stuff to get anodized. Still thinking if I should sell my HKS clutch and just buy and install a ATS or Carbonetics (same clutch) Twin Disc clutch right away.

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