Dan McBoost
Member
Looking good. Did you end up going any lower?
GT4CS: The Quest for 400awhp!
- Thread starter psipwrd
- Start date
Not yet, I rolled the rear fenders and lowered the front what I thought was a half inch but it still sits the same.
Seems like if a car is older or appears to be modified the German guy here at vehicle inspections will look for a reason to fail you. They put the car on a lift with hydraulics that jerk the wheels left and right to see if the power steering works. It failed so I ordered a PS pump, took it to a mechanic and had it repaired. Drove the car for 2 weeks while waiting for rear brake pads, no leaks whatsoever. Took the car back to inspections and he had this machine jerk the wheels back and forth until he saw a drip forming. It never actually dripped from the car over the course of about 4 minutes, but he failed me anyway. While waiting for another PS pump, I installed my CEIKA BBK. I also found a hairline crack on my WTAIC, which may be why I can't hit target boost. These wheels only clear the calipers by 1mm w/o spacer. I have a 3mm spacer but would like to know what you guys think is acceptable. I'd rather not run the spacer up front.
Seems like if a car is older or appears to be modified the German guy here at vehicle inspections will look for a reason to fail you. They put the car on a lift with hydraulics that jerk the wheels left and right to see if the power steering works. It failed so I ordered a PS pump, took it to a mechanic and had it repaired. Drove the car for 2 weeks while waiting for rear brake pads, no leaks whatsoever. Took the car back to inspections and he had this machine jerk the wheels back and forth until he saw a drip forming. It never actually dripped from the car over the course of about 4 minutes, but he failed me anyway. While waiting for another PS pump, I installed my CEIKA BBK. I also found a hairline crack on my WTAIC, which may be why I can't hit target boost. These wheels only clear the calipers by 1mm w/o spacer. I have a 3mm spacer but would like to know what you guys think is acceptable. I'd rather not run the spacer up front.
Still making progress, slowly but surely.
I temp installed the IAT and MAP sensors and she fired up and idled smooth on the AEM EMS so I proceeded with some parts
Here's how she sits now:
This was the best way i could figure to mount the FMIC core...also got radiator fan brackets supporting the bottom from the subframe.
Japspeed exhaust manifold with KORacing kit w/DBB PTE 5858 CEA, TCS Motorsports 4" intake and Buschur Racing battery.
I used gates hose 21591 because it had the bends to go over the TCS intake. It's about an inch short so cut and extend it with some 30mm OD pipe.
I'm waiting for a 30mm socket to change the oil drain fitting. I'll test it like this and tackle the manifold, TB and injectors after everything checks good.
I did a lot of research and didn't find much so this is for help with searches:
I had to use a modified OBX 5SFE .4" thick flange between the manifold and head to get clearance between the compressor housing and tranny because the turbo was hitting or touching the transmission and clutch slave cylinder hard lines. I sandwiched the flange between two gaskets. Stock manifold did not leave enough threads to torque but the japspeed mani with thinner flange does. I have 2-3 mm clearance from the clutch lines, and heat wrapped them like in KORacing instructions with the shield from the A/C lines (A/C removed). If the clutch line were to crack as some on MR2OC mentioned, I'd try the W58 MK3 Supra clutch line from driftmotion and run the line up and behind the starter.
I temp installed the IAT and MAP sensors and she fired up and idled smooth on the AEM EMS so I proceeded with some parts
Here's how she sits now:
This was the best way i could figure to mount the FMIC core...also got radiator fan brackets supporting the bottom from the subframe.
Japspeed exhaust manifold with KORacing kit w/DBB PTE 5858 CEA, TCS Motorsports 4" intake and Buschur Racing battery.
I used gates hose 21591 because it had the bends to go over the TCS intake. It's about an inch short so cut and extend it with some 30mm OD pipe.
I'm waiting for a 30mm socket to change the oil drain fitting. I'll test it like this and tackle the manifold, TB and injectors after everything checks good.
I did a lot of research and didn't find much so this is for help with searches:
I had to use a modified OBX 5SFE .4" thick flange between the manifold and head to get clearance between the compressor housing and tranny because the turbo was hitting or touching the transmission and clutch slave cylinder hard lines. I sandwiched the flange between two gaskets. Stock manifold did not leave enough threads to torque but the japspeed mani with thinner flange does. I have 2-3 mm clearance from the clutch lines, and heat wrapped them like in KORacing instructions with the shield from the A/C lines (A/C removed). If the clutch line were to crack as some on MR2OC mentioned, I'd try the W58 MK3 Supra clutch line from driftmotion and run the line up and behind the starter.
I finally got her running pretty strong, 10 psi is enough for now. Finding the balance between low steady idle and stalling when letting off the throttle is not as easy as I'd hoped.
I did find something weird, my wheel offsets are different on the front left and right. My right wheel cleared my BBK by a mm or two, but the left touched. There's also a visible difference, one is flush with the fender and the other's recessed. My right wheel touches something on a hard left turn but I only hear it if the car is moving. Its alligned with new rack & pinion. How is this possible? Are all st18x axles the same length?
I did find something weird, my wheel offsets are different on the front left and right. My right wheel cleared my BBK by a mm or two, but the left touched. There's also a visible difference, one is flush with the fender and the other's recessed. My right wheel touches something on a hard left turn but I only hear it if the car is moving. Its alligned with new rack & pinion. How is this possible? Are all st18x axles the same length?
Over the past few months, I got around to installing the SARD 800s, RMR Manifold and mustang TB. It took a few times to get everything to pass leak tests but it's done! I had a high idle prob that seems pretty common and impossible according to MR2OC. Apparently it's against the law to let your car idle here, so I locked myself in the garage to figure it out at the risk of dying of carbon monoxide poisoning. I think I finally beat it tonight.
More to come!
More to come!
underscore
Well-known member
The axle length wouldn't be able to move the wheel closer to the brakes, so I'd check the wheels themselves. If they're different just buy a cheap spacer to even it out.
As far as that idling law I'm guessing they wouldn't give you a ticket if you're actually working on the car but who knows, the Germans can be interesting people.
As far as that idling law I'm guessing they wouldn't give you a ticket if you're actually working on the car but who knows, the Germans can be interesting people.
I found that it's easier keep a steady idle with the IACV hose blocked.
Right now i'm half and half on the battery relocation. Under the hood is entirely too cluttered.
The seat covers came in and that's going ok. I really like the feel and look. Once the hog ring pliers come in i'll post more pics.
Here's the seat in work and a pic of how the car sits now.
Right now i'm half and half on the battery relocation. Under the hood is entirely too cluttered.
The seat covers came in and that's going ok. I really like the feel and look. Once the hog ring pliers come in i'll post more pics.
Here's the seat in work and a pic of how the car sits now.
underscore":1aluo1qd said:
I was careful while shimming the brakes and test fitting the enkei's, everything fit with a mm or two to spare so when i backed out and heard the rubbing I was pissed! I'll go with longer studs and a 3mm spacer when spring rolls around until I can figure out something permanent. If it ain't one thing it's another...
Mr Alltrac
Member
Seat covers look really good, where did you buy these?
Glad to hear....are you still going for that power goal? Or just trying to get it running on stock settings for now? I want to do my re-build to see what I can get out of the gen2 with gen3 cams, a CT20b and ST185RC electronics. Then I'll maybe upgrade to a pnp standalone with bigger turbo and a better fuel setup.
I'm just trying to get it running on the stuff I have and see how close I get to that hp goal. I still have the 5858 turbo so it should be doable.
I kinda wish I kept everything to go back to stock. Hopefully yours is relatively painless.
Currently
MR2 Spyder K24 swap has priority
I kinda wish I kept everything to go back to stock. Hopefully yours is relatively painless.
Currently
MR2 Spyder K24 swap has priority
psipwrd":3t7td5kh said:I'm just trying to get it running on the stuff I have and see how close I get to that hp goal. I still have the 5858 turbo so it should be doable.
I kinda wish I kept everything to go back to stock. Hopefully yours is relatively painless.
Currently
MR2 Spyder K24 swap has priority
Thanks, but nothing with this car has ever been painless for me.
LOL Fortunately, the engine should be the least of my worries, apart from the electrical. Suspension, brakes and body (interior and exterior).ITS ALIVE!!!!!
I can hardly contain my excitement!!! But DAMN it's pig rich and filled the garage with fuel within a minute. Talk about quick progress!!!
https://youtu.be/xGFEcrZXEG4
I can hardly contain my excitement!!! But DAMN it's pig rich and filled the garage with fuel within a minute. Talk about quick progress!!!https://youtu.be/xGFEcrZXEG4
Hey guys, I can use some help. After getting the car to crank and idle fairly consistently, I can put the car in gear and the wheels don't turn. After more digging into it, the clutch pedal seems to be working as it should, and as I row through the gears, I can see the lever on the transmission moving. With the engine running, I can row through the gears without using the clutch with no grinding. The only thing I get is a slight whine in 4th and 5th but there's no sound or smell as if the clutch is slipping. What would cause the no friction or engagement at all? Tranny fluid is full, drive shaft is connected, and the gears all worked fine last time I drove the car 5 years ago. I want to have a good idea of what look for when a friend comes over to help me in a few days.
alltracman78
Active member
Sounds like your clutch is just missing?
Or maybe somethings up with the shift select mechanism in the transmission.
Definitely something weird. I would think if the shift cables are on the wrong levers you would definitely have noise when you tried to shift.
If the clutch was blown it would be engaged all the time. Same thing if your master or slave cylinder wasn't working. The natural state of the clutch is engaged. You have to work to disengage it.
Also possible something in the transmission is broken, but you would probably hear noises.
Off the top of my head I can't think of something that wouldn't require the transmission to be removed.....
Or maybe somethings up with the shift select mechanism in the transmission.
Definitely something weird. I would think if the shift cables are on the wrong levers you would definitely have noise when you tried to shift.
If the clutch was blown it would be engaged all the time. Same thing if your master or slave cylinder wasn't working. The natural state of the clutch is engaged. You have to work to disengage it.
Also possible something in the transmission is broken, but you would probably hear noises.
Off the top of my head I can't think of something that wouldn't require the transmission to be removed.....