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Re: Project Pearl

Sun Jun 12, 2016 8:51 pm

Missed some updates last night. I think this is the to-do list now:
- Gearbox is also has a notchy 3rd gear. I'm thinking that the gearbox fluid also needs to be changed.
- Handbrake needs to be tightened
- fit washer jets
- fix speedometer
- fit undertray panels from the NA (close, but not the same as standard GT Four ones)
- poss fix the drivers side seatbelt as it isn't retracting very well

I have considered keeping the RC around, but just don't have the room or the time to keep working on it. Especially since I bought this at the end of 2015 ;)

Yes, I was stupid and bought a 1977 Fairlady Z. Needs a lot of work, but you have to live the dream, right?
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Re: Project Pearl

Mon Jun 13, 2016 4:28 am

Beautiful work! I have a few questions if you don't mind, first off being did you happen to weigh the motorized seat frame vs the non motorized one? I also noticed the seat attaches to the lower slider frame from the sides, so I'm curious how difficult it would be to modify the base to accept aftermarket side mount seats. Second question is what made your old rear brake rotors not fit on the RC? I used standard ST185 rears on mine but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't be.

Thanks again for taking the time to save one of these rear cars, it seems like few people care to these days.

Re: Project Pearl

Mon Jun 13, 2016 5:21 am

I'll rush a reply as I want to get some work done on Pearl this evening while it isn't raining. Dark and cold though..

1. Weight: no, didn't weigh the backs with each other. Frame on passenger side is probably around 4kg. The actuators and hinges for the motorised frame probably don't weigh that much. I poss have the frame at the back of the house as I haven't done a metal recycle run so could poss weigh.

Modification: I had previously looked at using the sliders to mount my Bride for Elephant on the standard sliders but found unfeasible.
Issues are as follows:
- The tilt mechanism is still attached
- the tabs for the slider release sit on top of the rail so you would need to grind off to get a flat surface
- all mechanisms are press riveted in, so you'd need to drill out or grind away those rivets
- the distance between the sliders is wider than the distance of aftermarket seats bolt pattern by 20mm, and it was hard to find a method to drill new holes as the rails are not a straight box section but a pressed contoured shape. Could have welded some tabs on, but bolting through the weld plate would interfere with the side wall of the top slider. Could offset the seat, but then seating position is compromised and you'd be offset relative to the centre of the steering wheel.

If the aftermarket seat was side mounted, then there is the possibility to mount using some L brackets welded in.

I have seen Recaro SR3's mounted to the factory slider mechanism with the side covers still in place. Not sure how they did it as there was no detail. Challenge would be to remove the tilt mechanism and leave the vertical mechanism for some adjustment.

For Elephant, I ended up buying Koyuu seat bases and aftermarket sliders but then found the seat was positioned quite high due to the height of the sliders.
Then I ended up buying Bride seat rails to get a lower seating position.

2. The overall diameter was different with the RC rear disc being larger. This maybe because the RC uses the upgraded single pot fronts and poss a different caliper in the rear instead of the two pot fronts and single pot rears from the 1990 GT Four A, which goes back to the ST165.
If the pads fit over the disc then you are fine. This was seriously out by 10mm or more diameter. Not sure if I have a picture. Might need to check the phone

3. Yes, had to save this rare car. Only 10-15 in the country and didn't want the car to be scrapped :)

Re: Project Pearl

Tue Jun 14, 2016 12:33 pm

Dave, great update, really enjoyed reading through it. Impressive amount of love went into fixing this car.

underscore wrote:... did you happen to weigh the motorized seat frame vs the non motorized one?

I weighed a set of seats a while ago and from what I remember the motorized one is 10lbs heavier than the non-motorized seat. It was about 50lbs vs 40lbs so 4kg is close!

Re: Project Pearl

Tue Jun 14, 2016 8:14 pm

Thanks :)
If love is a synonym for motivation and stubborn to actually finish a car, then great haha.

Nick and I were reflecting in the cold the other night that we were actually pretty proud and happy to get the car to where it is.
1) he called me a photo whore for documenting so much stuff
2) he was amazed at how much we actually did over the course of the repair and restore

13 July 2016

Installed washer jets, need to find the hoses and then that job is done

I removed the gauge cluster and plugged in my cluster, checked the cluster loom and various connectors/flexible circuit board at the rear but no sign of issues or anyone tapping in.
We took the car out during the night and checked the speedometer against a GPS speed meter app on the phones. Speed seems to be about half the value of what the speed should be.
Raised poss cap issue with Dee who replaced the caps in the ECU. He did suggest that caps on the cluster itself could have failed or be leaking.

Also contacted the previous owner. No changes or issues when he had the car. Seems to be an issue that has cropped up during the changes Nick and I have made.

Things to do for testing:
- check all grounds on engine and in dash
- run test leads to gauge cluster/ECU/speed sensor connections to test voltage and resistance against each other
- fix my gauge cluster to read correctly and then test in the car properly. My gauge cluster was way out due to me mucking about with the needles and mechanism 8 years ago
- identify, through the wiring diagram, the path of the speed signal e.g. speed sensor > speedometer > ECU or speed sensor > ECU > speedometer
- remove panels from underside of dash and centre console and check all wiring
- check if jumper wire is in engine diagnostic port
- check if former alarm module wiring was removed cleanly with no issue in wiring
- check all fuses and all wiring under the dash as back lighting seems dim across the whole dash

Thinking: If it is reading about half, then I think it is a resistance issue. Could be a dry solder joint, could be a break in the signal connection, though the speedometer is still reading consistently.

Finally, we'll look to change the gearbox oil over the weekend and bleed the clutch fluid. That notchy 3rd gear is getting really annoying now.

Becoming a running list of things to check re: speedo. Fun with electricity lol

Re: Project Pearl

Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:37 pm

Hmm, no updates in a while. Better address that soon.. ;)
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