autojumbled ST185 narrow body

autojumbled

New member
New to GT4's but not Japanese cars. Been though Starlet GT Turbos and MR2s so figured I would give another Toyota a try out!
Picked up a 1990 ST185 narrow body from a mate. Roadworthy but needs a lot of TLC to bring it up to spec.

No rust underneath but all suspension components have surface rust so that will be a job for the winter when its laid up. Also got lacquer peel on pretty much every body panel!

Here she is when I got her last month....

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and now after removing dodgy stickers and 17" wheels...

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So far I've just been driving it in between tinkering with a few bits. I've so far removed a crappy FCD and manual boost controller. fixed the passenger window, replaced the boot lid struts among other things.
Next is fluid changes all round and bleed the clutch.
I'll leave all the big jobs for when the summer is over....

If the parts come up, the main things I want to do (aside from clean all components up and refresh bushes etc) is an ST205 brake swap and coilovers. Happy to hear from anyone that might have 2nd hand parts available to help me with this!
 

autojumbled

New member
I really didn't stick to updating this thread at all which is a shame as I've done all sorts of stuff to the car since 2014!
I'm going to copy/paste a bunch of updates from Retro Rides (where I lurk mostly as its a bunch of guys who all love old cars). If nothing else it might help people doing searches etc as....
 

autojumbled

New member
I spent a few months driving the Celica before the MOT ran out. Gave me an opportunity to get a feel for what jobs would need doing on it and what i'd like to change.
During the obligatory oil & filter change, spark plug change, and compression test I removed, painted and replaced the rocker cover. This resolved an oil leak from the rear of the engine from worn rocker gasket (and loose fixings!).

I've gone for a fetching VHT anodised purple:
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Once the MOT expired, there was no way it was going to pass as it was. In fact, I'm fairly confident it must have scraped through the previous MOT. I mean take a look at the exhaust!

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Took the opportunity to start de-rusting and got to ripping parts off....

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After plenty of wire wheel action and then a bath in de-rusting stuff, the rear diff and sub frame came out quite nicely:

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Grabbed some new poly bushes from BRD and painted both the sub frame and the diff. It then must have taken me about 3 months or so before I got anywhere near to bolting all back onto the car!
Moving house and all that jazz meant the Celica took a back seat but the new house meant a new garage (a small one but attached to the house this time)...

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autojumbled

New member
September 8 2017

Continuing in the direction of bringing the Celica up to being MOT-ready whilst at the same time cleaning up some bits, I decided to book it in for a bunch of jobs that let's face it, non-one wants to do in their garage at home. Took it to Barry at South Coast Workshop in Emsworth (Portsmouth) as he comes from a Celica background and knows his way around them.
He firstly stuck it on the ramp and I asked him to poke and prod and advise on whether it needed any metal work doing underneath or on the sills. Everything actually came back ok. Just surface rust to worry about and a previous sill repair that wasn't pretty but was doing the job. Nothing I didn't already know about.

Next on the list was:
* New OEM clutch.
* New fuel pump carrier as was badly corroded - this requires the tank to be dropped.
* New ST205 fuel pump, because whilst you're there, you might as well.
* Replace all hard brake lines and fuel lines from front to rear.
* Fit new braided brake lines.
* Fit new exhaust - a super cheap 3" ebay stainless item. They come up every now and again ranging from £150-£300. Grabbed one at the lowest I'd seen it!
* Fit new downpipe - Not new but one I had kicking around from my MR2. Essentially a decat pipe. Replace the gasket and nuts with new parts whilst there.
* Full rust rub/wash down and underseal

Nice big list consisting of a lot of jobs that I didn't fancy doing with the car only on axle stands in the garage!
Jobs like the decat pipe and brake lines were thrown on the list as seeing as he was going to be working on that area anyway....

Most things went smoothly. The ebay exhaust didn't fit for toffee which I was expecting, but not to this extent! Turns out the the pipe had been assembled the wrong way round with the flanges at the incorrect ends.

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Barry rectified it pretty quickly though

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Also, when it came to fit the new braided brake lines, they didn't fit. Leaked fluid and didn't tighten up correctly - I got onto HEL and they sent out a different set free of charge so no complaints there. The new lines didn't fit either but more on that later.
We put the original rubber hoses back on for now.

New hard lines throughout to replace the corroded originals. Pic before they were tidied up:

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Once all the jobs were done, just the surface rust treatment left. They wife wheeled some of the crustier patches and then painted any exposed metal. Then used some rust treatment goop and a scrub etc and was left to dry before undersealing the complete underside. I'm so much more happier now that this is done. It looks lovely and I'm sure it will appease the MOT man!

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We're now at a stage where the car is back with me in the garage and I am tinkering as time allows - brakes are next on the list, again because they surely are MOT advisories/fails. Not going to be overhauling the original units though, will opt for ST205 calipers etc, as well as look at why the braided lines aren't working.
 

autojumbled

New member
September 28 2017

Once the Celica was back in my hands I settled it into the garage and set to work on renewing the rear brakes.
Opted for gen 6 (ST205) calipers and discs as they're a direct bolt on for the rear.

Offering up the caliper to confirm the fit:
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For comparison, the original ST185 caliper:
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The gen6 discs are 315mm and so considerably larger than the gen5 (285mm I think) and so the dust shields need bending or trimming to prevent the larger discs from fouling.

Cleaned and de-rusted the shields, then trimmed the lip off. I'd rather have part of the dust shield in place rather than bashing it with a hammer or removing completely.
Incidentally, new replacements for these shields are eye watering as there's not much stock left. One side is over £200...left side I think.
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I then set to work re-building the gen6 rear calipers.
Went through the now familiar process with most of the parts I've removed and replaced on this car: wire-wheel, bathe in de-rusting stuff, wash with metal prep/etch, paint.
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I am a J car lover at heart and as a result, cannot resist the occasional wild colour thrown in and so to match the cam cover colour-scheme, I opted to use the same VHT anodized purple. Baked in the oven much to the chagrin of SWMBO.
New rubber seals, slide pins, bleed nipples, all that jazz for the rebuild.

Discovered whilst sourcing rebuild kits that the internal rubber washers that seal the brake fluid channels of the halves of the calipers are discontinued, so that's worth bearing in mind when splitting them! Don't drop 'em....

Oh yeah, the braided HEL lines which the garage couldn't get to fit - I took a look at these now that I wasn't paying by the hour and sure enough, the new lines did not fit the new hard pipes Barry had made up. The fittings just span and didn't seal.
Did some detective work and discovered the braided lines screwed perfectly into a spare male union I had in my parts box. This meant one thing - the unions that had been used on the new hard pipes were not 1mm pitch. They were the 3/16 imperial jobbies....probably. I didn't bother to figure out exactly what they were, just knew they had to be replaced.

This tool to the rescue then - hand held brake flare tool. Made it easy to replace the unions on the car:
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With that sorted everything went back together perfectly. new gen6 rear discs, pads and calipers all fitted and shiny new braided lines installed!

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Purple right? :D
 

autojumbled

New member
June 7 2018

Been slacking on the updates!

I've completed the swap of the front brakes over to GT4 ST205 (gen6) calipers and larger discs.
Loads of different reports on the internet about how to make 205 calipers fit and armed with all that I went ahead and tried it out.

I opted for Avensis 2.0L D4D discs (295mm from a 03-08 model) because they didn't require any machine work or spacers to fit the hubs and provided enough clearance from the lower ball joint.
When measuring the calipers up for fitting it was clear that I would need to skim the mounting tabs of the calipers in order to push them out to align with the centre of the disc. 4mm needed to come off.

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Once machined, ended up with this:

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The 205 calipers do not use the same mounting bolts as the ST185 so I have opted to use a new (high tensile) nut and bolt for now to get the kit working. Will revisit that to see about making the nut retained or tapping the hub.

So skimming the caliper mount points, changing the retaining bolts, and trimming the backplate are the only tricky things needed with this setup.

I've rebuilt the calipers with new seals and pistons, painted them sexy purple as per the rears and installed braided hoses - sorted.

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System still needs another round of bleeding and a possible pedal adjustment. Saving all that for when it's next out the garage and more accessible at all 4 corners. For now though its great to be able to actually move the car by hand! no seized brakes to get in the way! 8D
 

autojumbled

New member
I now need to look at a rough running issue that the GT4 has had ever since it came back from it's fuel system work. It bogs when revved and sounds like it is missing a cylinder.
It had new fuel lines made up front to back, the tank was removed and a new fuel pump was installed. I'm thinking its possible its got a blockage from sludgy old gunk in the system?

Things on my list to troubleshoot:
1) Top up with good fuel as it's pretty empty.
2) Replace fuel filter.
3) Remove injectors and have cleaned.

Troubleshooting so far I have removed plugs and inspected. Probably worth a new set but they seemed ok, if a little sooty except for no4 - it was wet and smelled of fuel.

What do we reckon? replace with new plugs and retest?
 

autojumbled

New member
June 25th 2018

I now need to look at a rough running issue that the GT4 has had ever since it came back from it's fuel system work. It bogs when revved and sounds like it is missing a cylinder.
It had new fuel lines made up front to back, the tank was removed and a new fuel pump was installed. I'm thinking its possible its got a blockage from sludgy old gunk in the system?

Things on my list to troubleshoot:
1) Top up with good fuel as it's pretty empty.
2) Replace fuel filter.
3) Remove injectors and have cleaned.

Troubleshooting so far I have removed plugs and inspected. Probably worth a new set but they seemed ok, if a little sooty except for no4 - it was wet and smelled of fuel.

What do we reckon? replace with new plugs and retest?

Started chasing this running issue down this weekend.

Eventually managed to remove fuel rail and so can now get the injectors out to send off for cleaning.
Noticed that its very gunky down the back of the engine and around the injectors. plenty of congealed oil and grot in and around the injector seats. everything needs a good de-grease before I replace.
Should I be worried about my cleaning making its way into the injector holes when doing this?!

Also swapped out the fuel filter for a new item ready for when everything goes back together.

aaaand another thing, discovered this when doing the filter - remember this is new pipe fitted a year or so ago:

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UPQMLppQlmPzdl20U5xiCIh8B9z6AgXRd93iCvU3CcP3dM-O8r5EDRKjYJWVcvZ5_cVzKmxBdS_UNaVEO5ZN4SVdDJZ-R_IvJLql4qJfOTVJz26JGrY29WJ9mfQvE2E6VeZXmrKWJ7iJ4OEMHekYSpzbBa8Tj7f9aX-M35_DgtE0HUDiM94LQ_nM7mnm_17_BgLvd6ICvP0FTKG51RZ3DJrCukb_ipxH1t-Vv1B1mCT9-9m7TtTupFb5-YS_ZZrebRsqr19jMTut609YVmgfcgXns4n1tiPdcEnn40Vk2_w5Ajk6oIz9ce7AthvuKMn_bh2N19kplZdyV944Rk89MWyN8ze9EY0ZYKyTayVvDJo6mAYPiGIJ7umpx4s3UHLfIibb9scfCpEDk6ZqxLEQHt_w5fwsjRkPUtKSP_1e2qOVKwKxLBHI_CeACJlLgirVjKG1iASIEjHT9dPL0nS7sWHnWnGZy5nkDOSlG4uFoXUzYDGLnLr6fd37pYWrbylQtNgm08fJprYR6Y8TV9cln0Hs7kk8-0R7y0AtCB6U7xMkNJZCAffrt9TViM-I15BmnVOh6RcOGA1MgVDljSKZ0WcUDKnUQaIU1wfvmIu1=w980-h735-no


Is this kink going to be enough to cause my running issue?
 

autojumbled

New member
July 13 2018

Injectors returned from ultrasonic cleaning this morning. Looking forward to putting everything back together over the weekend to see if a clean and a new fuel filter has sorted out the misfire.

Looking at the report that the chap provided, only 1 injector was flowing the correct 440cc. The lowest flow recorded was 430cc.

I have my fingers crossed! Although still a little concerned about the small kink in the fuel pipe.....


July 20 2018

Cleaned injectors fitted and tested engine running - same missfire :D

I've since put a new set of iridium plugs in and sure enough, running a lot better now. So it was more likely spark causing the problem rather than fuel supply.
At least I have piece of mind that the fuel system is in good order now though!

Engine running still feels like it could be improved so when I get around to it I'll replace the rotor arm, dizzy cap and leads.

For now though however, I want to get it out the garage and re-bleed to brakes and put it in for an MOT and see what happens.....



Seems the fuel pipe kink is hopefully a red herring in my fault diagnosis.
 

autojumbled

New member
August 26 2018

Finally got around to another bleed of the brake system on Saturday. New ST205 brakes all round are so much better than the standard kit!

Also bled the clutch and renewed the fluid as the pedal barely engaged the clutch (not been right since the clutch change). I tried to adjust the pedal travel length but Jesus is that a fiddly job! Gave up and settled for a very low bite point for now.

Went for a test drive and man do I miss driving this thing. Glad to say she runs well, stops well, changes gear well!

Alignment is definitely out of whack on the rear (not had it setup since dropping the rear subframe).

Might go for an MOT now and see what happens.
Having said that, look how high it rides....i do have some lower springs in the parts box....hmmm

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autojumbled

New member
December 31 2018

Moved house at the beginning of November and took the opportunity to ship the GT4 off to a mates garage to have a couple jobs sorted out and to generally just get the car out of the way for moving day.

Loaded up on a neighbours trailer and drove over to Southampton.

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Ian @ Revoworks then completed various small jobs for me:

* Drain and fill the rear diff
* Sort out the low clutch bite & drain and fill the clutch fluid
* Swap out the suspension for 2nd-hand items I had, including lower springs
* New ARB links
* Bolt check on the underside after I had removed/refurbished loads of bits
* Full 4 wheel alignment[/list]


Not complicated jobs by any means but would have mostly involved me rolling around on the floor and I can't arsed right now! :D
Then we put it in for an MOT and it failed spectacularly on emissions - 7.4% CO
The pass rate for a non-Cat test is 3.5%.

I had a new lambda sensor in my parts box so we wired that in, filled up with 30 litres of vpower and then reset the ECU. I then hooned it up and down the side roads for 30 mins to clear it all out. It was running really rough to begin with and the clear out with new fuel and actual usage set everything straight.
Put in for a retest on Christmas eve and we have a pass....just!

Ride height is much better now...although I would say its too low! LOL can't win.

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Been driving it non-stop since the MOT was secured. Smells rich and must be running 10-12mpg, but then I am boosting it everywhere. This is the first time I've driven it in about 4 years and I'm finding it hard to not pick faults in it already that would mean it would spend more time in the garage!
The next round of work will definitely be focused in the engine bay to get it running perfectly (after I sort out the suspension a bit more).....
 

autojumbled

New member
October 4 2019

Last update..... 31st December!

Given the MOT was sorted I actually managed to use the Celica this summer for more than just a shelf in the garage, in amongst house reno stuff.
Got fed up with how low the tired old shocks and lowering springs were (as well as the terrible ride!) and looked into replacements.
Turns out, new shocks, springs and all the sundries total at more than a new set of coilovers so dropped some dosh on a set of BC Racing ones.

Surprisingly, given all the various J cars I've had over the years I've never actually fitted a set of coilovers - they were normally already there when they got off the boat!
As expected, spent a weekend fitting, measuring, testing, re-measuring and adjusting and then of course rolling the rear arches to prevent the tyres from being shredded.
The ride is now fantastic, I love it. Still needs a full alignment to be perfect but I only fit these at the end of summer so not intending to use it for a little while now.

New drop links at the same time in case I had to cut the others off...
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New diff mount also sorted - turns out the old one wasn't that worn and the knocking noise I was hearing that prompted me to replace it was actually a loose diff carrier bolt.
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New nuts as well! Its not much but ties in the colour scheme a little and the old ones were getting a bit rusty.
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I've had a face lift rear light set sat around in my parts box for years, finally got around to chucking that on too....

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autojumbled

New member
October 4 2019

I made it to a show as well this summer for the first time in forever - Beauliea Simply Japanese
Almost didn't get there however as 2 days prior the rad fan stopped working and she over heated. Jimmied in a slim-line fan next to it and spliced it into the existing wires and that seems to be holding for now. Was enough to get down the road to the show so can't complain!
That's a job to sort over the winter but is all good as I was planning on replacing the radiator and related bits anyway.....

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Oh, also got a fuel leak from the filler neck - a common issue with these where the pipe work gets corroded, resulting in a nice puddle of vpower on the forecourt :-S
 

autojumbled

New member
May 8 2019

Did a bit of commuting, everything going well....

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Then it wasn't going well....

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Overheated on the drive in to work - looks like the rad fan temporary fix I put in didn't hold. Fair enough - topped up with water before I limped it home later that day.
Sadly, whilst rolling along in traffic (with temps looking OK), it just stopped.

When putting it on the truck to get home, a lot of water came out, assuming from somewhere near the water pump as it looked to be nearer the rear of the engine, rather than the rad or overflow area.

Onto the fault-finding!

Turning the car over it felt a little free-er than normal so cam belt was the first choice as the problem. I'm still crossing my fingers its not HG failure as I'm not ready to do that job yet. Tested compression and that registered 0 across all 4 cylinders but I assume if the cam belt isn't doing anything then this isn't a particularly helpful test.

Sure enough, got the various ancillaries and pulleys removed and found the cam belt has snapped. Not certain when it was last done but I am certain it was some time ago. Good job the 3SGTE is non-interference.

Look at the state of this side of the block though - its covered in schmutz.
I do hope this is old oil weeps and leaks over time that I've been sorting since my ownership, rather than something more serious that's recently appeared...

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/l0-vdhFzuzZkxgcnjE70XZlTMZ2zP54Qo-a3JaQILCdswGXbMXOmb4snf3ZsFt1iiVq1y5NWnNK1rXQptX9u2xYW9R6cCKqcOH8iF33f8PXhmT_PG-b9uDX3bVbmp4HDaRnF5SG7SNXeV52Ur8lDp8PMxn_bWLVuP7qKQegOWPNu30Zeg2Sf6Acu7MQqLypQiQ8m7cOz46bEW4rKPzWH8V_OF10jPCKbMH9Xz60Boh78hAWwL0Rx8o50-W-AN-Jm17aI_W1U9ABdsj-lqD_1T9kC-NigB3H7M39g88DL7S20As6oyM4gIICDLgaZqQE5z377d4Wvzee3Grn9m9TcqaeuEooqVdfNZ3v6ZohxCFaav6oFMFoUUsENFOrOi8JFqDwIwyO81EI7b748SIN6H8qgxrkvkqQUTER2GcmisbppnhpaZosxgGaM-mZqjVtnJZg5dg1xJrH3EkwBQcGpvGGqeIlwUyT1nGk7dh6OzcpqlADrzZEq42Is_1kU6L_3ogN74icqWfzas4M1yvwILY2nFkh5t0s3PRrk7XbToSkqwj7uqfRCKEPqKtyQllHEpmyoQu1_25sae51ByhmzKx3iZVo9Iu7AFPMBsv_EXt_ayh6FL28enFb8upCNF3ufM_Q-EzAnmfeaONnCJIPXGg1PgGwPVnogvBDyTSRDut4c4CLs0v5Guv9w=w678-h903-no

Given I've not seen any substantial oil loss or leaks since I sorted the rear cam cover gasket leak of 2014, i'm going with the 'older weeping seals' theory.

Sit-rep is currently waiting for it to stop raining so I can get back out and start fitting new parts. I've removed all pulleys and the tensioner in preparation but still need to drain the coolant (whats left of it) and remove the water pump, ready for the new item.

Parts list amassed and awaiting fitting is as follows:

* Tensioner assembly
* Tensioner pulley
* Idler pulley
* Water Pump
* Thermostat
* Cam belt
* Power steering belt
* Alternator/AC belt
* Crank Oil Seal

Also got the new radiator and fuel filler neck bits to sort too so that can all go on at the same time.
Going to be a busy one!

One thing I did want to say - anybody who needs to do this job, don't bother unless you have a blow torch as the crank pulley bolt would not come off. Ended up making up a tool out of scrap in order to hold in place, blasted it with heat and then finally managed to get it loose.

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autojumbled

New member
November 24 2019

This curse word car!

Its taken me weeks to get the various bits off and prep to refit all the the new parts before getting to the new cam belt.
Now I've finally managed to fit the new water pump and thermostat alongside cleaning up the area as I go after it took quite a while to get a retaining screw out that holds the pump to the rest of the assembly. Had to remove the whole assembly in order to finally get it loose.

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Anyway, putting new bits on and fit the cam belt tensioner pulley, torquing it up and it all went loose - thought i'd sheared the bolt. Hadn't even reached the correct torque but nope - pulled the threads out the engine instead!

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There's no where near enough room with the engine in to be able to re-drill/tap the thread, the engine is going to have to be dropped which is a right PITA.
I've been thinking though that i could probably remove the head for less effort - I want to fit a metal head gasket anyway.

For reference, it's this bolt (not my engine pictured, sadly) - right in the thick of things
:(
 

autojumbled

New member
April 6 2020

Didn't realise the cam belt snapped in November! Time has flown by and I've still not fixed it.

Made some progress since last update though as I decided to bite the bullet and pull the whole head off in order to get at the stripped thread. Its now been sat headless for a couple months and I've not had the inclination to put it back together, until this weekend.

Engine block face got a clean up in preparation for putting everything back together....

Before:
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After:
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Spotted some damage to number 4 piston whilst cleaning up too:
Sj7Ge-RVpDZImricoqLfxNBT3NIxsPjy6vtv9nwakkcyAxVeVDGAbh3RLQz-t1gPrhDjQYjgWzoNgoaUml973wmerKEpvKIOS9EKOIkx3OAjYhPuc29_uPQ7SpM0-IFuiFNqAZJcqYWNZGz04upWZ9xTTvCIqDnDlcsBK7-x8xqCT3YccH-A62Ca4BkEPKBAAQTYE_odASh8hox57QnzhAx1JEY7ANLdtbDq8zE3zpr9N9eRlsqba2pukqjUH4CIAADpFg1KnRcWXN8ckzqAf2KjAJ3CuKRQc-DA6F6eI1q9HZmz80hOtvQslyAczd8odMctdaPWFZAz0YdK3mKqg8-EzXoiYuyjz3MRptQKQYBSo24rihkQU6hh1UkSWVE2IJLgAKkt6r9Dg0JdrSyiOp4FWU70kzICbHvCEzsEAZHyCOyYyAhQcMWSI1nbHDjBHQ_V08FTUIbXuUerioMv_bAtweuX6hiOOMonF6pGaxGiGiUnaMGA7-s0MfTbxNJy2yCu4G80XPtEKG4186x0VQ_wmrM8IL9OFM67MY9zvptnTYJHzd2rIfuQy25KxxlIPknphf_n7qvSjNMEZ-K8rG1ayIIJ4xs9U7SNDyjVhy3XGEfocuK67seq7IcJBKa9AoeydX4uWsNNuadVT2S9q-5P5-Ucdn-JfE3vp3FhTRofB1AshcAriKEdidLMgfg=w659-h1171-no


Can't see any damage to the head or valves and the cylinder also appears intact with no scratches.
I've no intention of replacing pistons so it'll go back together in this state.

Need to order up gaskets, head bolts, new exhaust manifold studs etc etc so I can put the damned thing back together now.
 

autojumbled

New member
August 4 2020

Being a tinkerer, I am unable to just bolt this thing back together and call it done.
As I've been going along with this cam belt repair I've tried to tidy and replace stuff where I can, especially where it would be a struggle to do so at a later date.

Last update I had the head off and I've since helicoiled the stripped thread that was the cause of the eventual tear-down. This then extended into helicoiling a couple of exhaust manifold stud holes as some of the old studs needed drilling out because they sheared when removing - sent the head off to machine shop to sort that and check the head to make sure it was flat.
Everything has had a de-grease, wire wheel and paint where possible, too - even if this thing doesn't work when I eventually get it back together, at least it'll look a million times less crusty.

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Pricing up new gaskets and whatnot I came to the conclusion it would be better to get the full engine overhaul gasket kit - this has led to replacing the valve stem seals which wasn't a job I had planned. Also replaced cam shaft oil seals and the crank oil seal.
Opted for a Rev3 engine Toyota OEM MLS head gasket as they fit straight on the older Rev2 3S-GTE - definite improvements to be had there for future 'more boost' plans.

Parts!
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autojumbled

New member
Putting things back together.....

Head back together with new exhaust manifold studs, valve stem seals, cam shaft oil seals, injector seals and a new overhauled distributor.
Everything de-greased to finally rid the engine bay of the years of weeping gaskets and seals. Intake manifold wire wheeled to celan that up and a couple bits painted.

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This was after I stretched the bolts securing the hydraulic tensioner as well - I'm going to chuck my torque wrench in the bin and pick up a new one as I clearly over-torqued them. This is the same wrench I was using to tighten the pulley bolt that stripped the threads in the head.....

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Other bits were de-greased or wire-wheeled, soaked in Evaporust and painted..

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Head back on. New water pump, new idler pulleys and tensioner, along with the new cam belt (and ancillary belts).
Pain in the
fox_60.jpg
that job was, getting everything lined up with timing markings and having enough slack to get the belt on. I even went so far as to get a new bearing for the alternator belt tensioner pulley as it felt a little crunchy - measured that up and grabbed whatever came up in that size off ebay.

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Another job not on the list but again, I was buying parts from BRD so chucked them on the order.
Gear linkage bushes replaced with new poly items and a new 'sugar cube' to smooth out the gear changes.

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aaaaand another thing I wasn't going to do is the alternator replace. I was ordering bits from GT4-Play so added it to the list whilst I was there
The contacts on the original were rusted through and I thought may as well!

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3d-fX3hbbWqXQUJgnX8YVAZ4DVmegCUl2IX-_hS2AwljKODHV2LQxVZf1V71hzTcF4OOkPcoI-bBR_a5x-f0RgkwzsJ4pBLe9kqTYdD9ISAkoL6KAGbKGmdg28EdBWOm1xoLqU3Dtr2Ep2k68u-0ia1Dg=w854-h1171-no


Everything back on so far, only drama was getting the exhaust manifold and turbo combo back on thanks to a slightly wonky re-drilled manifold stud. It may have been me when fitting but it just seemed easier if I removed a couple of the studs, hung the manifold on the 2 I left in-situ and then refit the remaining studs.

Did some tidying of the loom as I refit it - some of the electrical tape and wrap was looking a little frayed and grotty so that's been re-taped.

Fresh coat of VHT purple on the cam cover as well (in case you couldn't tell!)
(rofl)
 

autojumbled

New member
When I was refitting the cam belt I was raising the engine up and down on a jack and stupidly forgot to disconnect the front engine mount and by not doing so, I tore the rubber mount.
I've now replaced this with a poly mount from BRD.

Also from BRD, a new decat pipe. The old pipe had a crack in it and the internal wastegate catches on the pipe, causing weird boost issues occasionally. I figured whilst I was here I would replace the pipe with anew one that doesn't cause gate fouling. Also has a flexi section to hopefully minimise cracking.

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