autojumbled ST185 narrow body

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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby autojumbled » Thu Aug 13, 2020 7:11 am

November 24 2019

This curse word car!

Its taken me weeks to get the various bits off and prep to refit all the the new parts before getting to the new cam belt.
Now I've finally managed to fit the new water pump and thermostat alongside cleaning up the area as I go after it took quite a while to get a retaining screw out that holds the pump to the rest of the assembly. Had to remove the whole assembly in order to finally get it loose.

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Anyway, putting new bits on and fit the cam belt tensioner pulley, torquing it up and it all went loose - thought i'd sheared the bolt. Hadn't even reached the correct torque but nope - pulled the threads out the engine instead!

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There's no where near enough room with the engine in to be able to re-drill/tap the thread, the engine is going to have to be dropped which is a right PITA.
I've been thinking though that i could probably remove the head for less effort - I want to fit a metal head gasket anyway.

For reference, it's this bolt (not my engine pictured, sadly) - right in the thick of things [img alt=":(" class="smile" src="//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/sad.png"]

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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby autojumbled » Thu Aug 13, 2020 7:13 am

April 6 2020

Didn't realise the cam belt snapped in November! Time has flown by and I've still not fixed it.

Made some progress since last update though as I decided to bite the bullet and pull the whole head off in order to get at the stripped thread. Its now been sat headless for a couple months and I've not had the inclination to put it back together, until this weekend.

Engine block face got a clean up in preparation for putting everything back together....

Before:
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After:
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Spotted some damage to number 4 piston whilst cleaning up too:
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Can't see any damage to the head or valves and the cylinder also appears intact with no scratches.
I've no intention of replacing pistons so it'll go back together in this state.

Need to order up gaskets, head bolts, new exhaust manifold studs etc etc so I can put the damned thing back together now.
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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby autojumbled » Thu Aug 13, 2020 7:15 am

August 4 2020

Being a tinkerer, I am unable to just bolt this thing back together and call it done.
As I've been going along with this cam belt repair I've tried to tidy and replace stuff where I can, especially where it would be a struggle to do so at a later date.

Last update I had the head off and I've since helicoiled the stripped thread that was the cause of the eventual tear-down. This then extended into helicoiling a couple of exhaust manifold stud holes as some of the old studs needed drilling out because they sheared when removing - sent the head off to machine shop to sort that and check the head to make sure it was flat.
Everything has had a de-grease, wire wheel and paint where possible, too - even if this thing doesn't work when I eventually get it back together, at least it'll look a million times less crusty.

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Pricing up new gaskets and whatnot I came to the conclusion it would be better to get the full engine overhaul gasket kit - this has led to replacing the valve stem seals which wasn't a job I had planned. Also replaced cam shaft oil seals and the crank oil seal.
Opted for a Rev3 engine Toyota OEM MLS head gasket as they fit straight on the older Rev2 3S-GTE - definite improvements to be had there for future 'more boost' plans.

Parts!
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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby autojumbled » Thu Aug 13, 2020 7:22 am

Putting things back together.....

Head back together with new exhaust manifold studs, valve stem seals, cam shaft oil seals, injector seals and a new overhauled distributor.
Everything de-greased to finally rid the engine bay of the years of weeping gaskets and seals. Intake manifold wire wheeled to celan that up and a couple bits painted.

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This was after I stretched the bolts securing the hydraulic tensioner as well - I'm going to chuck my torque wrench in the bin and pick up a new one as I clearly over-torqued them. This is the same wrench I was using to tighten the pulley bolt that stripped the threads in the head.....

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Other bits were de-greased or wire-wheeled, soaked in Evaporust and painted..

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Head back on. New water pump, new idler pulleys and tensioner, along with the new cam belt (and ancillary belts).
Pain in the Image that job was, getting everything lined up with timing markings and having enough slack to get the belt on. I even went so far as to get a new bearing for the alternator belt tensioner pulley as it felt a little crunchy - measured that up and grabbed whatever came up in that size off ebay.

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Another job not on the list but again, I was buying parts from BRD so chucked them on the order.
Gear linkage bushes replaced with new poly items and a new 'sugar cube' to smooth out the gear changes.

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aaaaand another thing I wasn't going to do is the alternator replace. I was ordering bits from GT4-Play so added it to the list whilst I was there [img src="//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/rofl.png" class="smile" alt="(rofl)" style="max-width:100%;"]
The contacts on the original were rusted through and I thought may as well!

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Everything back on so far, only drama was getting the exhaust manifold and turbo combo back on thanks to a slightly wonky re-drilled manifold stud. It may have been me when fitting but it just seemed easier if I removed a couple of the studs, hung the manifold on the 2 I left in-situ and then refit the remaining studs.

Did some tidying of the loom as I refit it - some of the electrical tape and wrap was looking a little frayed and grotty so that's been re-taped.

Fresh coat of VHT purple on the cam cover as well (in case you couldn't tell!) [img src="//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/rofl.png" alt="(rofl)" class="smile"]

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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby autojumbled » Thu Aug 13, 2020 7:23 am

When I was refitting the cam belt I was raising the engine up and down on a jack and stupidly forgot to disconnect the front engine mount and by not doing so, I tore the rubber mount.
I've now replaced this with a poly mount from BRD.

Also from BRD, a new decat pipe. The old pipe had a crack in it and the internal wastegate catches on the pipe, causing weird boost issues occasionally. I figured whilst I was here I would replace the pipe with anew one that doesn't cause gate fouling. Also has a flexi section to hopefully minimise cracking.

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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby autojumbled » Thu Aug 13, 2020 7:24 am

It only bloody runs!! Well chuffed.
Finished buttoning up everything in the engine bay. Chucked oil and coolant in, primed it and then went a first start - fired immediately and straight into a steady idle.
Pretty happy with that :D

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Since it's been off the road the MOT has lapsed so that'll need doing now. Just got the replace the fuel filler neck first as it leaks when putting vpower in and that stuff is expensive so would rather not drop any on the floor.
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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby simple » Thu Aug 13, 2020 6:52 pm

Good to follow along!
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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby underscore » Thu Aug 13, 2020 7:10 pm

The story of "I wasn't planning to do that, but may as well add it" is all too familiar to me haha.
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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby autojumbled » Thu Aug 13, 2020 11:29 pm

underscore wrote:The story of "I wasn't planning to do that, but may as well add it" is all too familiar to me haha.
I swore this thing wouldn't live on axle stands but I also want to do it right and that takes a long time (at my place)!
I've got to replace the fuel filter neck next. It's rusted near the base and leaks fuel when filling up.

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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby underscore » Fri Aug 14, 2020 2:55 am

At least you're doing the work and staying in control of how quickly (or slowly) it goes. I paid someone to try and speed the process up and it still ended up taking far longer than it should have.
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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby autojumbled » Wed Sep 02, 2020 1:58 pm

Made a start on the fuel filler neck replacement and I'm going to need a few new parts in order to put it all back together.
The tank straps are rusty but serviceable but I have sheared all of the tank cover retaining bolts - they hold the plastic cover over the tank and fasten into the tank straps. I've not investigated too much yet but I have 2 options:
1) drill out/remove the sheared bolts from the tank straps, clean up the rust, protect and find some spare 10mm bolts to hold on the cover.
2) Buy new straps and fixings.

I know what the cheapest option is! I will take a closer look at the straps first and make sure I'm happy with the state of them before I reuse.

Once I'd got the tank off which wasn't actually too much of an ordeal I then set about trying to remove the filler pipe itself - this thing is in a right state.....proper corroded.

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I chiselled off as much of the rust I could to get access to the small 8mm bolt heads. Surprisingly, 4 of the 7 bolts came out without issue. Seems is just massive surface rust ratehr than the threads being rusted or damaged.
2 bolts I had to get a good pair of pliers on to remove (after filing some straighter edges onto the bolt heads) and 1 I cannot remove.
I have an 8mm Irwin bolt extractor socket arriving this week so I can hopefully remove this final bolt.

I've new 8mm bolts already to fit along with a new filler pipe.

In case anyone is wondering, fuel tank removal steps are as follows:
* Lift boot/trunk carpet and disconnect 2x fuel pump/sender connectors.
* Remove/lift boot plastic (LHS) and move auto-aerial motor assembly out of the way so you can reach....
* Fuel flap release mechanism - un-bolt by reaching into boot area with one hand to hold onto the release mechanism whilst you loosen the bolt inside the fuel flap.
* Remove the 4 screws holding the surround to the top of the fuel filler pipe (inside the fuel filler door).

Under the car:
* Jack up rear of car.
* Remove LHS rear wheel and wheel trim - 2x bolts securing.
* Remove 6x 10mm bolts holding on the plastic fuel tank cover. 5 bolt into the tank straps and a 6th on the corner of the tank, nearest the filler neck - access from the wheel well.
* Disconnect 3x lines going into the fuel tank. 2 are clips and 1 is union - catch fuel.
* For me, the straps are rusty so I disconnected them by removing them direct from the chassis, nearest the diff. Each strap is held on by 2 bolts which you can reach up to behind the rear of the diff.
* Supported with a length of wood to spread the load, place a jack under the tank at this stage to take the weight.
* Remove the other ends of the tank straps (nearest the rear of the car) - 2 bolts on each strap.
* Tank can now be lowered down on the jack. May need a little big of wiggling to get it to come down without fouling the pipes and the filler neck.
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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby Corey » Sun Sep 06, 2020 3:59 pm

Great project thread, nice work on the car!

I want to drop my fuel tank one of these days also so I'll reference your how-to.

What do you think of the BC coilovers? Which springrates do they have?

I also have the BC coilovers but I'm not happy with the spring rates I chose (6F and 6R). I think I want to go down to 5 or 4F and 4R.

With 6 and 6, to keep the car from bouncing around in a endless front to rear harmonic on the highway, I had to turn the rear dampers all the way to 0 and the fronts almost to full stiff.

I went with the same front and rear because I read that the factory car used virtually the same spring rates on front and rear (but maybe different dampers?)
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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby autojumbled » Sun Sep 06, 2020 5:12 pm

Best recommendation I can make dropping the fuel tank is replace everything if it's never been done before, it all gets very corroded under there.

The BCs I have are 8kg front and 4kg rear. They are roughly set in the middle of the firm/soft dial i think....I firmed them up until I got no rub on the rears.
It's difficult to say how they perform as I can only compare the old knackered shocks. The BCs are a million miles better.

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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby Corey » Sun Sep 06, 2020 5:20 pm

Yeah the BCs are a nice coilover for the price. One thing I miss from the stock struts is that they had far more travel at full extension than these BCs which made the stock units far more stable on bumpy back country roads.
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Re: autojumbled ST185 narrow body

Postby autojumbled » Sun Sep 06, 2020 5:44 pm

Corey wrote:Yeah the BCs are a nice coilover for the price. One thing I miss from the stock struts is that they had far more travel at full extension than these BCs which made the stock units far more stable on bumpy back country roads.
I had lowering springs on previously and they had barely any travel with the standard shocks so switching to the BCs has just made everything better!

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