HOYS' ST185 Res-Q

hoys

Member
underscore":brk08lfv said:
Are the expansion valve ones somewhat accessible or does a bunch of stuff need to be pulled out to get to them? I've had the lines open for ~8 years and the firewall connectors have been totally exposed for the last 4 which I'm guessing isn't great for them.

You essentially need to pull the evaporator core to get to the expansion valve. You should replace the valve (and possibly the core) if your lines have been open that long.
 

underscore

Well-known member
The core is the one inside the HVAC boxes in the cabin right? Sorry I'm really bad with A/C stuff. Thank you for all the pointers.
 

hoys

Member
Sorry for the lack of updates. Things get in the way.

:bangshead:

ID1050X's installed and wired. I initially tried to use the RacerX OEM FPR adapter but it's a headache in a Celica.

Went with a new external FPR from Bosch/Radium. Now wheeerrreee to mount it?

I went with the now vacant EGR location. Here is the process of making a bracket to mount the FPR on top of the EGR delete plate from Circuit Sports:

j2XfKxa.png


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Getting this bracket machined will be expensive so I'll probably get it printed in Ultem 9085. Good enough for airplanes...good enough for me.

If anyone wants the file, let me know. Pair this with M4x0.7x12 4x and M8x1.25x25mm x2.
 

hoys

Member
Adapter mounted on engine:

X98JzoA.jpg


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It needs some tweaking to make it a bit more level and to move the return hose barb away from the intake air pipe for the IACV. The idea is that there will be a 90 degree coming out of the rail where there currently is a 180 and then another 90 into the FPR.
 

hoys

Member
abeans":xh1kuy6v said:
Very clean, good location. - Is that regulator non adjustable?

Correct, not adjustable, but a reliable and OEM Bosch regulator that can be bought at any parts store if it ever fails. 43.5 PSI. I also have an electronic fuel pressure sensor directly after the fuel filter. Now that I am using this FPR housing it might be better to move it to the port on this housing.
 

hoys

Member
ItmniVs.jpg


Well making an AN line between the rail and FPR are out of the question. I'll have to use some 30R14 here with hose barb adapters.
 
I'm going down a similar road you are with my ST165.

I am in the process of changing over to a Link ECU Standalone.

I'm nervous about a couple things now.

I swapped my ST165 factor pump with a Denso 951-0014 Fuel Pump. (Supra TT pump, 260 lph). I didn't do anything new for wiring, just used factory. I'm hoping it doesn't pull too much current now? I wonder how much current it does pull.

I bought the ID1050X injectors, was looking forward to them. But as it turns out, they are not compatible with an ST165. The O-rings are not compatible, and won’t seal, and the Injector body length is incompatible. There is interference between the wiring plug and intake manifold. No way to make them work. I ended up going with Deatschwerks 1000cc Bosch EV14 Injectors, (PN- 17U-07-1000-4). (Resistor Pack removed) Perfect fit, and very nice injectors. I didn't think about spray cone though, or spray hitting inside the manifold somewhere. I hope I'll be OK there?

I went with a Tomei Adjustable Regulator (43.5psi), Universal Type S, PN-TB507A-0000A.
I designed and 3D printed a mount that goes on the strut brace.
 

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hoys

Member
mickeyfinn":2h6ctw2y said:
I'm going down a similar road you are with my ST165.

I am in the process of changing over to a Link ECU Standalone.

I'm nervous about a couple things now.

I swapped my ST165 factor pump with a Denso 951-0014 Fuel Pump. (Supra TT pump, 260 lph). I didn't do anything new for wiring, just used factory. I'm hoping it doesn't pull too much current now? I wonder how much current it does pull.

I bought the ID1050X injectors, was looking forward to them. But as it turns out, they are not compatible with an ST165. The O-rings are not compatible, and won’t seal, and the Injector body length is incompatible. There is interference between the wiring plug and intake manifold. No way to make them work. I ended up going with Deatschwerks 1000cc Bosch EV14 Injectors, (PN- 17U-07-1000-4). (Resistor Pack removed) Perfect fit, and very nice injectors. I didn't think about spray cone though, or spray hitting inside the manifold somewhere. I hope I'll be OK there?

I went with a Tomei Adjustable Regulator (43.5psi), Universal Type S, PN-TB507A-0000A.
I designed and 3D printed a mount that goes on the strut brace.

Very nice mount! That gives me an idea for the ethanol sensor.

The nice thing about the ID series is that they are all the same base unit and generally always require some sort of adapter to be used in certain situation. I found the ID support guys very helpful in finding parts that worked for me.

As far as pump current draw, it would have to be measured. If you aren't noticing fuel flow issues or drops in pressure at high load areas, I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Thanks!
I'll try to post the .stl files for the mount on thingiverse soon if anyone wants to use it.
I can email you the CAD File if you want to try to modify it to get your ethanol mount.

I'm wondering about those injectors spraying into something inside the manifold now.
I REALLY don't want to take it all apart to look in and see. Wouldn't these just spray similar to the factory 440's?

I don't really need 1,000cc injectors. I just went with them to have plenty of headroom on duty cycle.
 

hoys

Member
mickeyfinn":8a8qnifj said:
Thanks!
I'll try to post the .stl files for the mount on thingiverse soon if anyone wants to use it.
I can email you the CAD File if you want to try to modify it to get your ethanol mount.

I'm wondering about those injectors spraying into something inside the manifold now.
I REALLY don't want to take it all apart to look in and see. Wouldn't these just spray similar to the factory 440's?

I don't really need 1,000cc injectors. I just went with them to have plenty of headroom on duty cycle.

I'd love whatever you can share. Once my design is finalized I'll also be publishing the design on Thingiverse. I have both .STL and .SLDPRT. If you wouldn't mind sharing the file that would be awesome.

Probably anything is an upgrade over the factory 165 injectors.

I certainly don't need the 1050x's as well, but if there are any upgrades in the future these are at the limit of what I'd probably ever want the car to be capable of (famous last words?)
 
I hear ya.
Buy nice injectors one time.

Injector Dynamics did mention to try an adapter, and to stack o-ring seals on top of each other. I wasn't liking the idea a whole lot.
These Deatschwerks fit perfectly right out of the box. They also have all the data characteristics just like ID does.
I just emailed them, and asked for the info in the format Link wants it. They sent it in about 5 minutes.
 

hoys

Member
mickeyfinn":1d1av4tc said:
I hear ya.
Buy nice injectors one time.

Injector Dynamics did mention to try an adapter, and to stack o-ring seals on top of each other. I wasn't liking the idea a whole lot.
These Deatschwerks fit perfectly right out of the box. They also have all the data characteristics just like ID does.
I just emailed them, and asked for the info in the format Link wants it. They sent it in about 5 minutes.

I agree stacking O-Rings isn't great. If those injectors were drop in then the corresponding part for a the same YMM Subaru should be nearly drop in as well..
 

Alikazam

Member
Just read this whole thread, great read. I've been working on my ST185 since July of 2020 and got her up, running, tuned, driving, tagged and legal and daily drivable, windows fixed, sound system sorta working (right rear speakers don't seem to work), etc. from it having sat unmovable from 2006. Walbro 450 pump in tank, had to do a whole tank restoration. Custom modified fuel pick up for 1/2" feed and 3/8" return with welded on fittings (-6 and -8). Used stock fuel feed line as my return with adapters (cut line and used compression type fitting on tube), and ran 1/2" stainless hard line I bent up for the new feed. Noticed during tuning that the pressure was dropping near red line slightly, and could be the same issue with wiring size to the Walbro (using factory wiring presently). Might be an area to upgrade. Tuned to 327 awhp with a Gen 3 engine, FMIC, cams, 18psi boost, Precision 5130 turbo in a Street Brawler kit, and 3" turbo back exhaust (mostly made out of scrap pieces). Did spin on oil adapter on block where factory cooler was, and ran -10 braided line to a B&M front oil cooler in location of stock front fan. SPAL 11" fan on factory rear left side is only fan but with big Aluminum radiator, temps never going over 195 deg F so far and when fan turns on, they just start dropping. She isn't super pretty, but she runs good! I really need to do my AC system like you did, but I'm still in the middle of fixing a few other things still before I can dig into it. I.E. previously mentioned speakers, poorly mounted Gen 7 seats, and adding in relay-adapter harness (DIY) to make Beamtech LED h4's work properly. Love that there's another ST185 saved and on the road again! Keep cranking away! :) Great color too. Will be following your progress :)
 

hoys

Member
Thanks for the topic bump! I've been meaning to come back and update this.

Sadly over the winter I did not get much work done on the car. Busy times. I've recently been getting back into the project to get everything wrapped up.

Currently I am getting the valve cover cleaned by a vapor blasting service before reinstallation. There was lots of built up gunk so I wanted to start fresh. Also the sealant on the PCV baffles was completely toast so I figured it was a good time to start fresh. While that is out I am devising a better PCV system entirely. I removed the press fit adapter from the valve cover and I am attempting to see if one of the Radium swivel press in fittings might be substituted.

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This would make the PCV setup a bit cleaner. According to their fitment matrix the smallest AN size I can get is a -12. A bit bigger than I wanted, but I'll give it a shot.

Next up, since I've had a lot of time to research, I think I'm going ahead with a drive by wire conversion. I'm tired of the idle up valve, cruise control modulator, and throttle cables. I've got an ECU that can do it, I just need to find the right hardware. After a *lot* of internet digging, I think I've found a suitable throttle body. I somehow jumped from MR2 forums to DSM forums to EvoX forums to Mustang forums to find that the 2014+ Ford Focus uses what seems to be the same bolt pattern for mounting and is a similar throttle body bore if not the same as a Gen2 3SGTE. The positioning of the actuator motor might be a problem, but I receive the throttle body today so I'll be able to test. Worst case if the bolt pattern is correct but it sits too close to the mounting flange, there are either the junk "vortex air" spacers or meth injection spacers on the market for the ST (same throttle body) that I can easily use to get the motor housing away from the flange.

FST-TB-INJ-SPCR_03.JPG


I'm sure there will be some "hurr durr why DBW CABLE IS BETTER BRO" comments. Just know that you don't know what you are talking about.
 

simple

Member
My dirt bike has a more advanced ECM than an early 1990s Toyota so I'm down with your plan to go drive by wire.
 
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