rjpan's 1993 Toyota Celica All-Trac Turbo

Deceptik1

New member
I'm curious about your AC system. Do you have an empty system? Only reason I ask is because I had working AC that might have had a slow leak at my condensor. I noticed now that whenever I click my AC button "ON" the light doesn't turn on anymore and compressor no longer turns on. Is that the situation with your AC or does yours still turn on even though your freon is empty?
 

Magroo

New member
Compressor won't turn on unless the system has a charge. There is an AC pressure switch located by the timing cover.

Normally you would pull a vacuum on the system before recharging it but you should check for leaks. Ive used a regular air compressor and soapy water in a spray bottle to track them down. Or you can do it the hard way with UV dye and a small charge on the system.
 

FC Zach

Active member
It also will not turn on if it's overcharged. . . that's a possibility (in case it was filled without paying attention to the gauge).
 

rjpan

New member
gt4tified":1ufgkcy1 said:
rjpan":1ufgkcy1 said:
December 21st 2019

Alltrac passed smog!

View attachment 4

View attachment 3

I'm not particularly a fan of a black RC, as far as color goes, but man yours looks bad-ass!

Thanks man!!

Current updates:

June 7th 2020

Found that my tachometer was reading extremely low, and found out that it was a common issue, and the fix was to replace the capacitors on the back of the tachometer. Ended up ordering a couple.
Tachometer Capacitors:
https://www.digikey.com/short/z9tb3t

June 11th 2020

Started working on my Alltrac

Replaced the capacitors on the tachometer and now the tachometer works!
104117652_1633350336828971_7036385114305598296_n.jpg

Still have to sort, the Cruise Control, Power Steering,
Ive been getting a check engine light for a o2 Sensor
and again AC for last

June 25th 2020

Pulled the ECU and Speed Control ECU Unit, to inspect for bad capacitors.
Turns out the capacitor that commonly goes bad, blew. I'm guessing that is the reason for the o2 sensor code.

106111456_292798768527358_6866211984898307451_n.jpg

Decided to order all the capacitors for the ECU ad Speed Control Unit.
Here's the ECU capacitor list if anyone needs it:
https://www.digikey.com/short/z9thwq

My power-steering whines only when I try turning the car, and started becoming harder and harder, the reservoir is always full, and when the car is running, I see the fluid do a tornado effect in the reservoir.

Maybe its my rack that's going out? I don't think its my pump.

If anyone has an idea to sort the cruise control, please let me know.
 

sefiroxx

New member
Whine is typically pump related. Belt slipping or pump having to work harder. Check the tension. Check the idle up function. At extreme end of the turn, additional idle is added to provide additional power to compensate for the extra work by the pump.
 

rjpan

New member
June 27th 2020,

My capacitors arrived from Digikey!

June 29th 2020,

Unsoldered the old capacitors and soldered in the new ones!
Plugged in the ECU and Speed Control Unit. So far the car fires up and idles! Going to mount all the components properly soon then take it on a test drive.
 

gt4tified

New member
rjpan":3cxh997n said:
June 27th 2020,

My capacitors arrived from Digikey!

June 29th 2020,

Unsoldered the old capacitors and soldered in the new ones!
Plugged in the ECU and Speed Control Unit. So far the car fires up and idles! Going to mount all the components properly soon then take it on a test drive.

Well done, bro! Glad ur back on the road. How tough of a job was the cap replacement, on a scale of 1-5 with 1 being easy-peasy and 5 as requiring epic mad skills?
 

rjpan

New member
gt4tified":94ek977o said:
Well done, bro! Glad ur back on the road. How tough of a job was the cap replacement, on a scale of 1-5 with 1 being easy-peasy and 5 as requiring epic mad skills?

I would say I'm a novice when I'm with a soldiering iron. On a scale from 1-5 I would say its a 4, I suggest having a steady hand, and a soldering vacuum or what they call a desoldering pump.

June 30th, 2020

I was able to put my ecu, and interior properly back together. Then decided to try to sort the power steering whine. Upon further inspection, I found that the belt was loose, thanks to the facebook alltrac.net community.

Went on a short test drive, and the car feels like its power is back, currently doesn't have a check engine light, but only time will tell. Sidenote: Cruise control light would turn on, but when activated it wont hold the same speed.

Now all I have to sort is my cruise control! and then lastly recharge my AC!
 

rjpan

New member
alltracman78":8qa4no6a said:
IIRC the cruise control gets it's speed signal from the ECU.
However it may work different with a JDM setup. Not sure.
From what I've read, and heard from other Alltrac owners the Cruise control is sorta complicated, there is a Speed Control Unit, located behind the radio, and it also takes signal from a speed sensor that's attached to the transmission, and there is also the switches on the steering wheel that activates it, and apparently the brake pedal has a switch too that deactivates it.

Ive driven the car and sometimes it would turn on sometimes it doesnt. and when it does turn on, sometimes it works for a little bit, then the cruise control light flashes then it shuts off, and makes it inoperable. Then sometimes it just works and everything is okay. I have no idea what and why it does this.

I guess im going to try looking through my BGB BE86 to figure it out, it has a page about reading codes?

July 4th 2020
I know I wanted to save this for last, but I decided to tackle my AC. The car appeared to have been converted to R134a, the "newer" and much more eco friendly refrigerant. But since the system was completely empty, I had to rent a vacuum and ac gauges to refill the system. But upon filling the AC system the line from the compressor to the condenser blew.

July 6th 2020
"R12 Conversion" Yes I decided to switch back to R12. I just like the refrigerant more, it just blows colder. I took the blown line off, and had it repaired by a local hose shop, Had to go back to have them put a heat protectant sleeve over it. Then I pulled off the R134a valves off, and drained what was left of the oil out of the compressor and added some Ester Oil. I called the shop that did work on the car in the past to ask what oil they used, they said they did the conversion in 2007, and they more than likely used ester oil in the system because its compatible with both R12 and R134a refrigerant. They also said that all they had do to with the conversion was change oil, and put the valves on. Upon removing the R134a valves, I noticed one of the original valves took a bit of convincing to accept the schrader valve insert. Now that if everything goes to plan, all I have to do is test for leaks, vaccum, then recharge the system. Hopefully that all goes well this coming Monday. Also I noticed I have a Oil leak on the timing gear side of the motor.
 
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